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Hardcore misfire/stalling/poor running...

NorMich99SE

CEG'er
Joined
Jan 3, 2002
Messages
468
Location
Morton, IL
Hey all, I'm hoping to get some insight from the collective experience here on a problem I've had just a couple of times, but especially bad yesterday. Please bear with the longish explanation as I'd like to get as many details out as I can.
The car btw is a 00 SVT w/ K&N drop in filter, headers, gutted cat, and trubendz exhaust. I have MIL eliminators but a CEL is on due to a HEGO circuit issue I haven't figured out yet (pops the fuse). I am the 7th owner and as far as I know it still has the stock 2.5, but I'm pretty sure one of it's previous owners was not kind to it.

Yesterday I had to drive from where I live to Grand Rapids, MI, and then to Saginaw, MI, From here to G.R is roughly 2 hours on the freeway, and from G.R. to Saginaw is roughly another 2 hours on mostly 2 lane country road. temps in MI yesterday were mostly low-mid 60's. Now here's what happened. On the drive down to G.R., the car was running fine the entire 2 hour drive, sat for roughly 30 minutes and then I headed to Saginaw. About 10-15 minutes in to that drive, I started getting some misfiring up around 3500-4000 RPM and higher, especially in 4th and 5th gear, under partial throttle. Giving it more throttle would make it worse. I was having a hard time maintaining freeway speeds of 70 mph. Once I got off my exit onto 2 lane blacktop the problem kept up and got worse. The engine starting bucking pretty bad off and on and a misfire was nearly constant, speeds above 45 were mostly unreachable. The temp guage never rose higher than halfway on the guage, I stopped a few times and the coolant level was good. There were a few times when the car slowed down to 10 mph or slower and I had to have it in second gear with a very light throttle input to even keep it running, then it would pick up power again and allow me to very slowly accelerate and eventually get up to 45 or so. The car did stall about 3 times and wouldn't start back up for 2-3 minutes. I stopped at a gas station for a break and removed the IMRC cover to allow some more heat to get out (I have the cf evo hood with the heat extractors right over the imrc) and after sitting for 15 minutes or so, the problem was better, but still there. I was able to maintain around 55 mph most of the time and eventually limp into Saginaw.
The car sat for about 5 hours and when I drove it next, no issues what so ever. No misfiring, no problem maintaining freeway speeds. I drove it about 10 minutes, parked it for another hour and then completed the 2.5 hour drive home with no further incident. Something similar happened to me about a month ago on a drive to Sault Ste. Marie, MI, which is about a 3 hour drive, and was in similar weather conditions, i.e. mid 60's or so. It felt to me for all the world like pre-ignition, and the intakes and valve covers did seem pretty warm to me when I stopped and felt them, but like I said, the temp guage never climbed out of the typical range, it never went higher than straight up and down.
Perhaps also worth mentioning is that the car has had new Ford plug wires put on within the last 2 months, by me, and the previous owner put in new plugs about 17K miles ago (last summer). I also haven't cleaned the filter or anything so over oiling shouldn't be an issue I wouldn't think. I do work at a Ford dealer so I will see if I can get plugged into the scan tool Monday and see if I have any codes besides my HEGO codes, I suspect I'll have some misfire codes at least.
Any input on this one would be appreciated as it was really annoying at the very least and I can't afford to be worried about driving this car long distances. Thanks.
 
Need the CEL codes. If not, guesses would be ignition coil, IMRC, fuel pump, sp wire, sp, IAT sensor, etc...
 
Sounds exactly like bad wires to me. Try having that happen in the mountains 14 hours from home let alone a parts place. Thankfully I found a place off the eway and swapped new plugs in. That was 2 years ago and I've been fine. Autolite wires FTW.
 
I suppose it could be a bad set of wires, it would be the first bad set of new wires I've ever had though that's for sure. I didn't think there was a difference between Autolite wires and Ford (Motorcraft) wires.

I hooked the car up tonight to the Ford scanner and pulled the codes though, here's what I got:
P0171 Bank 1 too lean
P0190 Fuel rail pressure Sensor Circuit A Malfunction

thoes were the unexpected ones, the one I figured would be there were:
P0135 HO2SHTR11 Heater circuit
P0136 HO2S12 Short to power or open
P0141 HO2SHTR12 heater cicuit
P0155 HO2SHTR21 heater circuit
P0161 HO2SHTR22 heater circuit

Like I said, the heater circuit ones I expected because the fuse is blown, I put a new fuse in last week and in blew within 2 drive cycles, that's another problem I have to figure out, could be contributing, but I'm not sure. The fuel rail pressure sensor code I find interesting, any ideas on what might cause this one? I'm also intrigued by the P0136 short to ground/open code.
I'd definitely be interested in further thoughts/ideas on this problem.
 
Sounds like an exact carbon copy of how my 2000 was for over a year. I got those same codes, but only once. Did you have trouble hitting the redline before this incident? For me, it would act like it was hitting a wall at about 5000 with less than 1/4 tank of gas and over time it gradually got worse until I was having the same symptoms you described. A new FSVT pump from Bill J. for $108 shipped and the problem was solved. The true culprit is supposedly the sock on the pump that gunks up and blocks flow, but if you're having that severe of symptoms, you might have damaged the pump and need a new one anyways. Check out the how to on fuel pump replacement. If it's a 2000, you'll have to enlarge the access hole under the seat, but with a pair of tin snips and pliers, and it's no problem. The entire job from pulling the pump out of the FSVT housing to putting the seat back in takes well less than an hour. I reused my original sock since the FSVT one is different, but used an entire jumbo size can of carb cleaner on it before I put it back.
 
That's very interesting. I have had occasional problems like you described where it seems to hit a wall in the upper end, not always, but now and then. makes really driving the car a lot less fun when you're unexpectedly thrown into the seatbelt. I suspect the fuel pump has been messed with before, as I run out of gas around 1/4 tank, but it only takes 10-11 gallons to fill it from there, meaning there should be 3-4 gallons left in the tank when I "run out". I wonder if someone replaced the pump at one point and damaged it in the process somehow. Something to look into this week anyway. Thanks for the info!
 
That's very interesting. I have had occasional problems like you described where it seems to hit a wall in the upper end, not always, but now and then. makes really driving the car a lot less fun when you're unexpectedly thrown into the seatbelt. I suspect the fuel pump has been messed with before, as I run out of gas around 1/4 tank, but it only takes 10-11 gallons to fill it from there, meaning there should be 3-4 gallons left in the tank when I "run out". I wonder if someone replaced the pump at one point and damaged it in the process somehow. Something to look into this week anyway. Thanks for the info!

That's EXACTLY the case with mine. Like I said, I replaced the pump and cleaned out the sock, and the car is running better than ever.
 
Well, I installed the FSVT pump tonight. I followed the how-to just as it said, cleaned and re-used the contour V shaped filter, used a new green seal for the contour. BUT....she was misfiring all the way home, a little bit of surging and bucking here and there but not terrible. The problem feels different this time. I'm able to accelerate, with some occasional misfiring or bucking, but it acts almost like an old carb'd car trying to clear out. She's kind of hesistate, misfire for a bit then go like mad, with some occasional misfires popping up here and there. What do you guys think I did wrong? As far as I know all my connections are tight as far as fuel line and electrical connections. input is greatly appreciated, trying to decide if i should have the fiance drive this 3 hours back to where she lives so i can get her car worked on....
 
Did you replace the inline fuel filter too? If not, that would be my next step. It sounds like we are half way there. Did you notice any contaminants or debris at the bottom of your tank? Mine was clean, but if you had any, you should have tried to get those out of there while you were in there. Did you fill it up with fresh gas? How exactly did you get the fuel line off? Not having the special tool, I used a pair of pliers and a hammer. If you didn't damage the end, it should have just snapped back on, so I wouldn't worry about that.
 
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Well, the inline filter was replaced late last summer, I suppose a new one of those never hurts. It was an off brand anyway so maybe I just need to get a good motorcraft part on there. As for debris...hahahaha. Let me explain. I tried to do this one thursday night, but the lock ring had essentially become one with the tank (I'm doing all this in a Ford garage btw) so one of the techs suggested if I want to have any chance of salvaging the ring and not needing a new tank (yikes!) soak it in penetrating oil and let it sit. I did that and had planned on tackiling it again early next week, so I filled up my tank with Shell premium at $4.23/gal (ouch!...this is starting to look the begining of the old batman tv show) and then found out she's coming down this weekend and needs her car serviced so she needs to drive mine back to where she lives. now, this is getting long so let me do the cliff notes version from here. lock ring didn't want to come out, ended up buckling in a weak spot, we didn't have a new one in stock, so out to my old 99 to try and salvage the ring from that one. Managed to get that one out and pull the fuel pump on the 2000. Now when I did that rust flakes did fall into the tank, but i went in later and fished out all the ones I could see and did a sort of general sweep to get any smaller particles. The fuel line came off the pump no problem and went back on no problem. Everything seemed to go very straightforward once I got the lock ring off which is why i was suprised at how it ran on the way home. I'm getting close to just scheduling it into our service dept. to have someone diagnose and troubleshoot it, I'm already getting sick of it. I plan on keeping it, but of the 3 contour/mystiques I've owned, this one has been the worst so far, but I am the 7th owner.

Here's a couple pics of the rust I had to fight on the lock ring inially, after being soaking in penetrating oil.
100_1692.jpg

100_1694.jpg
 
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