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Help!!!!

S

sportracer

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 30, 2002
Messages
285
Location
Oshkosh, Wisconsin
Ok here is my problem, When I start up my car it kinda idles but sounds more like its misfiring but I don't think it is since the check engine light is not blinking( on but not blinking, A o2 sensor is causing it to be on, like that before when engine was running fine.) and my tach is not working and when I go to put a load on the engine by revving it up it dies like its not getting gas or air, but when I let off the gas it comes back to idle. Sometimes when I push the gas it revs up like normal and sometimes it doesn't do anything. What could be the problem(grounds, vacuum hoses, connections, bad pcm, ????) Any help would be great.


Jesse

Edit: By the way its a 1998 Mystique with a v6 automatic
 
sportracer said:
the check engine light is not blinking( on but not blinking, A o2 sensor is causing it to be on, like that before when engine was running fine.)
Edit: By the way its a 1998 Mystique with a v6 automatic
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I've never seen a CEL blink. If it's on, you got codes. Just because it was on before doesn't mean its just your O2 sensor. Get the codes pulled and then get on here and tell use what they are. You may have multiple codes causing the CEL to stay on and it may not just be the O2 sensor causing it to be on anymore. Most auto parts stores will read the codes for you for free if you don't have an OBD II scanner.
 
Have you done any work to your car lately? Theres a number of things that could make your car act like this. One as simple as a vaccum line being disconnected. Take a look at the wiring going to your MAF and coil pack... do they look cracked with bare wire showing?
 
I had my engine out, but I re-looked at everything and it all seems to be hooked up right. The only thing I can think of is a ground thats not getting a good contact as I repainted the engine bay or the pcm went out again(2nd time). If I can't find whats wrong I'm sure the mechanic will figure it out.
 
Ok, here is an up date on what is happening. At first it was hard to start and idling rough and loosing rpms and going back up and so on. Then it just got hard to start and loosing rpms and the tach started going haywire and and recently the tach stopped working and the car would start and idle fine for about 45 secs to a min then just die. I have the check engine light on but I cant get to the store to get it read. What should I start looking at?
 
sportracer said:
I had my engine out
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Wow. Ok that leaves a lot to look at. Is your firing order hooked up right? Well first thing would be check your plug wire orientation and make sure they are hooked up correctly at both the coil pack and the cylinders. Then ensure that you have the ground wire hooked up for the coil pack (seperate purple wire with gray connector) as well as the ground strap that connects to the driver side rear bolt holding the coil pack to the valve cover.
 
I didn't touch anything on the engine, just unhooked everything holding to the vehicle. I'm thinking it can only be a few things since there are not many connections to make. You got the comp, ground wire on the passenger mount, vacuum hoses in the back, ground wire from the tranny, square connector by the drivers strut tower and a Few others that I don't think would cause it to act up.
 
sportracer said:
I didn't touch anything on the engine, just unhooked everything holding to the vehicle. I'm thinking it can only be a few things since there are not many connections to make. You got the comp, ground wire on the passenger mount, vacuum hoses in the back, ground wire from the tranny, square connector by the drivers strut tower and a Few others that I don't think would cause it to act up.
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I would just go buy yourself an OBD II scanner for $120. They are well worth the money. Troubleshooting without the proper tools can be a major PITA not to mention a waste of time and effort.

Tony2005 said:
Engine misfire will cause a blinking CEL.
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Wow... news to me. Thanks for the input!
 
sportracer said:
Ok, here is an up date on what is happening. At first it was hard to start and idling rough and loosing rpms and going back up and so on. Then it just got hard to start and loosing rpms and the tach started going haywire and and recently the tach stopped working and the car would start and idle fine for about 45 secs to a min then just die. I have the check engine light on but I cant get to the store to get it read. What should I start looking at?
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first off is it hard to start when its hot or cold??cuz if HOT check your air filter clogged,and fuel not reaching the fuel injection so check the fuel injector system,and if COLD battery discharge low, and check your fuel injection system....and as for the rough idle sounds like 02 sensor,but as for anything else you need to get us that code

anyone correct me if on wrong hope that helps...
thanks danni
 
Ok just got done talking to the mechanic. These are the 12 codes its throwing:

P0113 Intake Air Temperature [IAT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature [ECT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0123 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0232 Fuel Pump Feedback Circuit High Voltage
P1474 Fan Control Primary Circuit
P1479 High Fan Control Primary Circuit

He also said the voltages were all srewwy, alot of things were way to high or way to low.

Could this be a computer problem as everything worked before or could it be a short somewhere?
 
sportracer said:
Ok just got done talking to the mechanic. These are the 14 codes its throwing:

P0113 Intake Air Temperature [IAT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature [ECT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0123 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0232 Fuel Pump Feedback Circuit High Voltage
P1474 Fan Control Primary Circuit
P1479 High Fan Control Primary Circuit

He also said the voltages were all srewwy, alot of things were way to high or way to low.

Could this be a computer problem as everything worked before or could it be a short somewhere?
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thats a lotta codes! remember this question?
BAD SVT said:
any high fuel smells, smoke?
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Something may have gone wrong with the large main engine wiring harness, as everything listed is pretty much on that bank of wires.
 
uhm...

Start by making sure your BATTERY is good.. and that your alternator is charging.

If you have a spare one, replace the battery (even if just long enough to eliminate it) and test the voltage at the terminals.

The reason I am getting to this is that a BAD battery (not necessarily a DEAD one... a BAD one) can cause the alt output to drop, especially under load, and thus your car dies/tach goes haywire/all the "high voltage" codes. Your "battery" (aka, alternator charge) light wouldn't illuminate either if your alt is overcharging.

You need to know the voltage on the battery off and running. period.

A stumble under load but a fine idle is not a vacuum leak (that would be the opposite... would idle poorly but under load/throttle would get better), generally.

I'd suspect coilpacks, batteries, alternators or something having to do with electrical charge/dissemination, or a fuel problem. though I'm giving an official "guess" to an electrical problem.
 
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Ill have him check those things, the times we can get it to rev up it seems to smooth off but then as soon as you let off the gas it dies way down. would over charging cause the car to seem to run on only a few cylinders?
 
sportracer said:
Ill have him check those things, the times we can get it to rev up it seems to smooth off but then as soon as you let off the gas it dies way down. would over charging cause the car to seem to run on only a few cylinders?
Click to expand...

sounds like my brothers car and it was the battery , the battery had enough power to just barely start the car so for like 1-2 seconds it would click then just boots up but my dad checked the battery acid and it was good got it tested at crapy tire passed but then my dads friend looked at it and told me the cells in the battery weren't good ,so charged it problem fixed:blackeye:
 
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