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brake cooling duct 50% done and would like input!

1

111R

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
773
Location
Los Angeles
not sure if this is in the right forum, but, for the past couple of weeks i have tried to figure out how to use those fog lamp housing holes in my bumper to some how send some air to the brakes. granted i know this will only do very little impact, i wanted to see if it was possible and if anything could be improved.

here are some pix. i am not really happy with the result currently because i really wanted to remove my washer fluid container entirely to make room for the tubing. right now the exit inside the wheel well is 3" or so to far to the passenger side. i could just buy another wheel well thingy and start over, but i wanted some feedback first. also passenger side was the easier of the two; drivers side will be more difficult.

anywho, what does anyone think?

thanks -a

Picture511.jpg

Picture514.jpg

Picture518.jpg


parts:

-5' of aluminium tubing 4" diameter
-2 4" to 4" rubber sewer connectors
-2 4" to 3" rubber sewer connectors
 
BrApple said:
yeah you need to have the ducts pointed towards the brakes and not the tire ...
Click to expand...

thats what i was thinking, BrApple. my dad thinks that its ok because the tire will be rotating and the wind will be going in a multitude of directions, therefore, adding much cooler air into the mix is acceptable -- according to him.

how much is a new/used wheel well thingy?

and i guess i can kiss my washer system goodbye :ponder:
 
You also need to add some kind of mesh to the fog light opening to keep debris from getting ducted straight to the brakes. Granted, it wont be a problem now but if you actually get the hose dumping onto the center of the rotor you dont want rocks and sticks finding there way in there.
 
You'll want the duct aimed towards the center of the rotor. The air flow (especially if they're directionally vained) will flow from the center to the outter edge.
 
KingpinSVT said:
You also need to add some kind of mesh to the fog light opening to keep debris from getting ducted straight to the brakes. Granted, it wont be a problem now but if you actually get the hose dumping onto the center of the rotor you dont want rocks and sticks finding there way in there.
Click to expand...

totally agree. i bought all the parts at home depot, and i found some gudder mesh thats plastic and black for 3 bucks! everything was such a tight squeeze under there (will be much easier once i dont have a washer system) i sawed off the old foglamp bracket and used the existing bracket for the sewer connector. the mesh was impossible to fit in the front but i might want to fit it inside the tubing so i can clean it out if need be and is much much easier to install.

morbid said:
You'll want the duct aimed towards the center of the rotor. The air flow (especially if they're directionally vained) will flow from the center to the outter edge.
Click to expand...

that will be much easier once i remove the washer system. i have thought about using the 4" connector insted of a 3" just so the bulk of the air is directly facing the rotor (arnt all svt rotors directional vained?).

the other side will be such a PITA; dont even really wanna think bout it right now...

-a
 
Y2KSVT said:
Here's something to look at. This is what a guy did with his LS. Pretty creative.

http://forums.llsoc.com/index.php?showtopic=11694

Mark
Click to expand...

nifty idea! very pro job too compaired to mine :D

but i would think that on a fwd svt this would be basically impossible.

just a small update, i removed my washer housing and went and bought a new spash guard at the dealer. i moved the hole essentially 2" back towards the middle of the car and up 2-3".
 
warmonger said:
May you should put that kind of work into a cold air intake and just run a higher performance brake fluid that can handle any increased heat?
At least redirect the duct actually onto the rotors/calipers.
Click to expand...

first off, i just bought pud's heatshield, ru-3530, maf adapter, and optimized tb; so i am not so sure how to go forward with a different/better cold-air intake setup.

second, what fluid can i run using oem everything? i was just thinking the other day about getting goodrich ss lines all around. with that in mind, should i bother tampering with the fluid? if so, what do you suggest?

lastly, i saw those pictures as posted in the link above from that lincoln forum, how would you go about this directing the airflow DIRECTLY onto rotors and calipers? granted i am a driver, not a mechanic, i just dont see how that would be possible having a fwd car; i would love to know how to do so. may be route a second duct from the halfshaft's and direct air from front air damn to inside of brakes?
 
111R said:
first off, i just bought pud's heatshield, ru-3530, maf adapter, and optimized tb; so i am not so sure how to go forward with a different/better cold-air intake setup.

second, what fluid can i run using oem everything? i was just thinking the other day about getting goodrich ss lines all around. with that in mind, should i bother tampering with the fluid? if so, what do you suggest?

lastly, i saw those pictures as posted in the link above from that lincoln forum, how would you go about this directing the airflow DIRECTLY onto rotors and calipers? granted i am a driver, not a mechanic, i just dont see how that would be possible having a fwd car; i would love to know how to do so. may be route a second duct from the halfshaft's and direct air from front air damn to inside of brakes?
Click to expand...

I think you got a great start on what is basically a free mod. eitherway this may be a bit more full blown than you are looking for but heres a good look.

http://www.newcougar.org/forums/showthread.php?t=99310
 
^^^ if i buy a wilwood kit this is what i will do

obviously seems to be the most effective way to decrease brake temps

and thanks for the compliment, took 5 hours+ just to get thins to fit; drivers side should be interesting
 
Yeah, if you are serious about brake temps, get bigger brakes, use a good synthetic brake fluid that you can search up online.

Search in the forums here for posts by Rara as he is a brake engineer and recommended some good fluids way back.

Then to increase the airflow you might just try ducting air from a spoiler mounted below the frame where the control arm goes.

A straight lip spoiler like the one underneat the radiator will increase pressure right there as the air flows under the car. The increased pressure will push up and you can use a simple duct to direct it at the caliper. Probably use a piece of aluminum sheet to fabricate it.

A lip spoiler under the car such as the one on the radiator can increase cooling capacity of the radiator by 40% and it can move more air than a small duct like through the fog light. There is no Funnel in front of the fog light so you are only getting a cross section of air that is the same diameter as the fog light hole. Look at the lower grill of the svt, there are plastic ducts to the right and left of the radiator to scoop a wider cross section. The spoiler under the car creates a bit of pressure so the air has a harder time going under and instead goes throught the lower radiator ducts.

So it may look cool but the bigger brake components and quality fluid will give more of an improvement.

Oh, also they use angled spokes on rims a lot of the time to direct air inward.
 
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