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lots of codes wtf

I

i will end you

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 9, 2006
Messages
60
so a few weeks back my car threw p0401(inseficiant egr flow) and i was told to replace the dpfe, which i did. but when i scanned it after i got done replacing it i get 0401,1151,1152,1153(new mass airflow codes) and 0301,0302,0303 missfires on cylinders 1 threw 3. so wtf could be wrong now? do i just need to let it run threw a drive cycle? i erased the codes but the light came back. i scan it again and it says no codes, yet i still have the light. im so confussed. before i replaced the dpfe it wouldnt even idle, it idles now but still shudders while driving. i dunno what to do please help i really need to get this thing right so i can pass emissions.
 
"so a few weeks back my car threw p0401(inseficiant egr flow) and i was told to replace the dpfe, which i did."
You should have posted all the codes first before doing what Autozone told you to do.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=4420

"but when i scanned it after i got done replacing it i get 0401,1151,1152,1153(new mass airflow codes) and 0301,0302,0303 missfires on cylinders 1 threw 3......do i just need to let it run threw a drive cycle? i erased the codes but the light came back. i scan it again and it says no codes"
Yes. You need to go through the OBDII drive cycle and then post the new codes.

Ford OBDII drive cycle
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

or download Owners' Manual from www.fleet.ford.com

If the same ones appear, you could have a wiring harness issue. If it is not the wiring harness, change the Bank 2 (radiator side) Upper O2 sensor (for P1151 and P1152).

Bank 2 (radiator side) Upper O2 sensor; Need a O2 sensor removal tool, 7/8 inch or 22 mm crescent wrench.
Bank 2 Upper is the sensor on the left of the pre-cat (closest to the oil filter) when you are standing in front of the car.

P0401, P0301, P0320 and P0303 could be a plugged precat or main cat.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=762
 
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tony2005 you seem pretty knowledgeable, will my car pass emissions if i gut the cats? also will it stop the light? i have done this to other cars but never one with such a complex emissions system. i was thinking about getting a set of headers but i wasnt to sure about the simulators. mll i think they are called. i was told by the people at the e-check that if i could show 300 dollars in receipts that i would get a wavier but that doesnt fix my drivability issues. it hesitates and surges while driving forward. i tryed a new mass airflow just because i had access, i did seem to run a slight bit better but not enough to replace it. any help would be great.
 
"tony2005 you seem pretty knowledgeable"
ROTFL. :laugh: . So are most CEGers who post answers.

"will my car pass emissions if i gut the cats? also will it stop the light?"
It depends. If you gut the cats, you need mileliminators to prevent P0420 and P0430, inefficient precats codes. If your inspector does not see the mileliminators (most times they don't as it is wrapped up and they assume that it is a universal O2 sensor being spliced in) and all you have is the OBDII check for emissions, you should pass (provided you don't have any other codes lighting the Check Engine Light). If you have smog sniffer tests, then you will have to make sure your main cat is still in good working condition and meet the emission standards of your state.

Can't go wrong with $30 (or $5) mileliminators.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=760

" i was told by the people at the e-check that if i could show 300 dollars in receipts that i would get a wavier but that doesnt fix my drivability issues."
Note that usually the waiver has to be due to repairs to get the emissions systems in compliance and the receipts have to be parts and labor from a smog emissions licensed facility or technician. Check with your state or local regulations to be sure.

"it hesitates and surges while driving forward."
Yes, you need to take car of this issue. Start by fixing the known problems.
I will quote Big Jim again,

"One of the first rules of troubleshooting is that you fix what you know is wrong and the(n) re-evaluate."
 
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You need to be careful when replacing DPFE's. There's an earlier series, and a later series of the Aluminum bodied ones. The difference in them is the "null" voltage. One starts it's feedback voltage "slope" at .55vdc (earlier versions), and the later ones start at 1.0vdc.
To have gotten as many codes as your posting, I'd think you disturbed some other wiring or component.

Here's some info on the two different types of DPFE sensors. It's in .pdf format.

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt36.pdf
 
well then i guess im spending the money on the new sensor. i borrowed one from a pre98. all i could find. i was told if my precats were cloged and i drove the **** out of it the would glow red, well they didnt. so i bought the parts tonite and made a few sets of mil's. i may not end up useing them but at least my cats may not be the problem. ill keep pluging away to see if i figure it out thanks all.
 
exact codes

exact codes

hey tony i ran my codes again today to get an exact list.
p0401-p1131-p1132-p1151-p0171-p0174
I know you said that the guy at autozone doesnt now anything but he sugested that i might have antake manifold leak(maybe at the gasket) is it possible a vacume leak could cause al this? i hope this list can tell you anything. thanks-chaz
 
i will end you said:
....I know you said that the guy at autozone doesnt now anything...
Click to expand...
I don't think that was me.

Anyway, if the Bank 1 Upper O2 sensor is more than 75K miles old, you may want to consider changing it. Yes, you could have a massive vacuum leak. Check by spraying carb cleaner at the gaskets, hose clamps, etc and if idle changes, then you found the leak. Do a visual inspection first.

Edit. How to - in Duratec Maintenance FAQ-Read first.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...allposts&Main=1023736&Search=true#Post1023736
 
allright ill try the carb cleaner tomorrow. i really appreciate all the advice and help. im assumeing that o2 sensors are super expensive, but i think i may change them all anyway as the car does has over 100k on it. just out of curiosity would removing the factory airbox in favor of maf adaptor with a k&n style filter cause the maf codes? i reinstalled the air temp sensor and made sure all the lines that were in the charge tube stayed pluged in properly when i removed the air box and installed my adaptor and cone filter. again thanks for the help. ill let ya know what happens as i figure it out.
 
You could actually have an EGR flow problem. I would consider doing the UIM cleaning. If the EGR is gummed up it can stick open which would cause an engine to misfire, it can also stick closed which would cause your insufficient flow.
 
i have herd alot of people talking about cleaning the manifolds. ill do some searches and try to figure out how to clean it out. i tryed spraying the carb and choke cleaner but didnt find any leaks. can i reuse any of the gaskets when i take the mani off? some cars use metal gaskets im not sure what these have yet. thanks for the advice. do egr's ever need replaced or just cleaned periodically? again thanks for the advice.
 
i will end you said:
i have herd alot of people talking about cleaning the manifolds. ill do some searches and try to figure out how to clean it out. i tryed spraying the carb and choke cleaner but didnt find any leaks. can i reuse any of the gaskets when i take the mani off? some cars use metal gaskets im not sure what these have yet. thanks for the advice. do egr's ever need replaced or just cleaned periodically? again thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...
We have a EGR test to determine if you need to change it. And the procedure for cleaning in with the UIM/LIM rebuild with pics in the Duratec Maintenance FAQ-Read First. Don't reuse 10-year old gaskets.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=41
 
i looked in the faq and printed out as much as i could about the cleaning procedures, i didnt however see anything there about egr test or cleaning. i took a second look closer and still didnt see anything. i'll just pull it apart this weekend and clean the **** out of it with some b12. were is the best place to buy new gaskets? i mean just go to autozone or do i have to go to the dealer? if i can get gaskets this weekend ill takeit apart and post a few pics before i clean it, hopefully it clears it all up
 
Yes, I apologize. Only the removal and reinstallation. I will post the EGR suck test or vacuum test in a minute or so.

Edit.EGR test.
Modified test for EGR (per Ray and Steve):
(remove the green vacuum hose from the top, be careful as it is brittle, and apply a vacuum (attached a small hose and suck on itl) to see if the car stumbles while running. This indicates a properly operating EGR.

Does it work properly?

NO: The EGR valve is defective or the EGR passages are clogged. Check (and clean, if needed) the passages behind the Throttle Body. Purchase a TB gasket, and remove the air plenum (rubber accordion tube) then remove the TB. Clean the EGR passage (small cut-out in the outer edge of the TB's mating surface) really well, install a new gasket and re-attach the TB. If the passages are clear, the EGR valve is defective. While rare, they do fail.

YES: The EGR valve works and the passages are clear. The likely fault is the DPFE sensor or its sample hoses, followed by the EVR solenoid or the PCM. May also be caused by interconnecting vacuum lines or electrical connections.
 
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