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1998 ford contour svt

IMRC stuck open check bushings for IMRC linkage or IMRC malfunction itself
 
p1518

p1518

The runners open a couple of times then get stuck in the open position.

So far I have done the following
rebuilt UIM/LIM- clean out replaced gaskets.
replaced IMRC 2 times with new ford part.
replaced transistor with tip121.
fixed loose clips on end of imrc rods.
fixed loose ground wire next to ecm.

CarX technicion recommends resetting ecm to factory defaults. had this done at ford. Says code may be locked into ecm. if that does not work to replace ecm. wiring was fixed, ground wire fixed.

Ford dealer recommends replacing IMRC. DONE. Checking for vaccum leak- DONE. says there was some arcing in the wiring posts to the sparks plugs 2 and 3.

Local repairman recommends replacing the " intake manifold runner control valve" or "intake runner control valve" but says the part is no longer available. Anyone know where I can purchase one? I cant even find the part number.

I have spent more this car than its worth and was hoping someone here might be able to help me with a solution. Thanks
 
intake manifold runner control valve = IMRC


"replaced IMRC 2 times with new ford part."

"Local repairman recommends replacing the " intake manifold runner control valve" or "intake runner control valve" but says the part is no longer available. Anyone know where I can purchase one? I cant even find the part number. "

If you have an E0 I bet your entire engine harness is bad. Contact me for updated harnesses
 
the local repairman replaced the IMRC twice and he is the one saying I need to replace the intake manifold tuning valve. This isn't a separate part? CarX diagnosed a short in the system and I had them check through all the wiring and fixed the ground. You are saying I should probably still replace the entire wiring harness? Thanks.
 
That tension problem might be the solution. I'll try it out thanks.
After researching the engine harness replacement, I don't it would be worth it to replace it.
 
ilovesvt said:
Man if i ever get a imrc problem ill just do a 3.0 swap lol
Click to expand...

As crazy as that sounds, it really isn't that crazy when u think about it. The OP has spent more than the car's worth at the shop/dealer trying to find & fix his IMRC problem. For that amount, you could've done a 3l swap. Whats the moral of the story? If ur IMRC stops working, simply replace the whole engine:D
 
BAD SVT said:
As crazy as that sounds, it really isn't that crazy when u think about it. The OP has spent more than the car's worth at the shop/dealer trying to find & fix his IMRC problem. For that amount, you could've done a 3l swap. Whats the moral of the story? If ur IMRC stops working, simply replace the whole engine:D
Click to expand...


Yea id be exhausted trying to figure it out,but imagine a 3.0 with imrc that would be an angry 3.0 up top lol....man i kinda want a 3.0
 
BAD SVT said:
U know what u have to do;)
Click to expand...

Im thinking hard about it, it will give me a chance to put in a rebuilt engine and go bigger, and your the only one in town that knows how lol....i was thinking its my next project on the svt after i 5 speed swap my accord
 
cable tension fix

cable tension fix

imrccable..jpg

based on the photo above can you pull the cable tight at the little metal nib and put a bigger clamp there to tension it?
BTW, This was the only photo I could find so I dont know if this is how that cable end actually looks.

cabletaught..jpg

I dont know if the cable can be pulled though the plastic end piece?
 
No, you're not touching anything there. The top right corner of the first picture is the area you want to adjust. The bracket that secures the cable to the LIM could be bent down and the area of exposed cable would have slack in between.

It should be straight and level like the bracket in that picture. For some reason, if there is slack in the cable, the ECU will signal the IMRC to open and it stays open until the engine is shut off.
 
With mine, the part in the top of your picture was bent down. If you bend that up, the rest of it moves together. You don't need to adjust the spot you pointed to in the picture.

Don't attempt to bend it until you know it's actually bent down and creating slack. You could end up just creating another issue for yourself.
 
so fixing the slack did not work but found wiring where the insulation came completely off. Have rewrapped those wires. Do you think I need an entirely new harness? Anyone in Chicago that can do the work and install?
 
I sell the E1 harness conversion that will completely eliminate your engine wiring issues. PM me for details.
 
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