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2.5L Track Death: The Chronicle of #2072's 3L Swap

rollinstylee

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
1,007
Location
Dublin, OH
Greetings CEG. I haven't been posting much recently, but that may change now that I find myself in sudden need of a new engine. Pics and vids are worth at least hundreds of words in this case, so in brief summary, the circumstances are as follows.

A private day at Nelson Ledges started out wet but ceased raining and began to dry mid-afternoon, by which point I was wringing it out hard and ran low on fuel. Fortunately, this caused me to slow down for a cool-down lap and pit to refuel. On this cool-down lap, since road and wind noise were diminished, I began to hear a faint tick that progressed to a tap and then a pronounced knock by the time I was back in paddock:


I luckily had a friend graciously offer his trailer to me if I drove his turbo'd Miata home. I was ok with this arrangement:

298593_10100205559289346_1526239_48143144_1700130393_n.jpg
329920_10100205559289346_1700130393_o.jpg


Dropping the pan, I was confronted with this:

HPIM1876.jpg


And then confirmed my suspicions by doing this:


So the teardown has begun. I've been reading up on here in my free time and bookmarking threads of importance. Right now I'm leaning toward a port-matched swap for simplicity of installation, possibly keeping the SVT cams. I'm going for a "budget build" as I am abandoning any viable autocross prep and stripping this car out as strictly a track rat now. However, I will certainly be installing a Torsen T2 and new clutch (probably stock SVT), as I was already planning to do that prior to the engine failure. That's about all I have decided at the moment.

My plan is to have the diff and clutch done and ready to go first, then purchase and work on the engine. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions during the process, so if I can't find the answers I'll appreciate any support and encouragement!
 
I saw your vid on youtube last week and was wondering who that was...... Have fun with the swap, ask questions! :D
 
Nelson Ledges strikes again!
Thats 2 CSVT's that have blown at Nelson Ledges this year

Not even slightly kidding, there is something infernal about that track. Last year I had an SCCA friend detonate an STi motor there. This year alone, a group of my coworkers has gone there three separate times, and each time at least one car hasn't returned under its own power; E24 6-series, Saabaru 9-2X, STi-swapped GC, and now me. That's just this year, just people I personally know...we've now made it a policy to bring at least one trailer when going to Nelson, no joke.

I saw your vid on youtube last week and was wondering who that was......
ok creepy stalker...


:D
 
Thank you so much for this thread. Mine grew this noise over about a week. original 57K on a 99. Not knowing what I was up against I just slid it into the garage to deal with another day. I thank you for the info and at the same time feel your frustration. Now to price out the fun stuff.
 
The last couple weekends have been leisurely dismantling the car and letting fluids drain. Interestingly, now that the oil has had time to seep out from the crank, rod #1 has a tremendous amount of radial play (as in probably 1mm or more), so I no longer think that #5's axial play was the source of the knock. Once the engine is pulled and I have better access and lighting, I'll take another vid. I also plan to pull all the bearing caps just for exploration.

I work on cars pretty slowly because I get frustrated and burned out during lengthy procedures, and this is, by great leaps and bounds, the lengthiest undertaking I've gone into alone. So, to switch things up from the grease and grime, I started on interior removal, as part of the rebirth plan following retirement from autocross classing limitations is moderate weight reduction measures. Air conditioning, stereo, front door cards and center console will be kept for travel convenience, along with full dash, headliner, and A-pillar trim for appearances. All carpet and sound deadening, including melt sheet will hopefully be removed, along with everything non-essential B-pillar back. I already had a miniscule 6lb battery up front, but additionally I'm deleting the cruise control and windshield washer system (and probably EGR if I go full 3L).

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The ripped orange bag stuck to the floor was uncovered when I lifted the carpet padding. Factory-installed reality.

Yesterday and today I got back to the dirty and drippy bits, removing the front suspension, pulling the axles with ensuing gear oil drain, disconnecting the clutch line, power steering feed and return, fuel rail, and coolant hoses. Lots of liquids, lots of mess. As of tonight, I think the only things left to do before the engine is ready to pull are radiator, unbolt and secure compressor, disconnect alternator electricals, some single-wire connector on the front of the block that I can't see well enough to tell what it is let alone reach, and of course the stab-o-shock and mounts. I'm sure I'll find some little surprises when I start to lift though.

Pulling the upper intake manifold revealed pretty oily secondary butterflies, but I wasn't prepared for how terribly carbon-deposited the actual ports and valves were when I removed the lower intake. Granted I purchased the car with nearly 115K on it, so a lifetime of gentle driving could have accumulated this, but for the past 30K it has been driven hard by me. I wonder how many horsepower I've been missing all this time?! A tuned 3L in a couple hundred pounds lighter car should be a revelation.

HPIM1901.jpg
 
Pulling the upper intake manifold revealed pretty oily secondary butterflies, but I wasn't prepared for how terribly carbon-deposited the actual ports and valves were when I removed the lower intake. Granted I purchased the car with nearly 115K on it, so a lifetime of gentle driving could have accumulated this, but for the past 30K it has been driven hard by me. I wonder how many horsepower I've been missing all this time?!
has anyone ever considered running a fogger fuel injector that is triggered by the secondaries or runs at WOT ?. If it was sited after the MAF it would clean the entire intake tract ....G.
 
Weekend three: the drivetrain is out!

It actually wasn't as challenging to do it solo and without a single look at a service manual as I'd anticipated. Using the lift ring and engine bracket, the rear head conveniently rotates out from under the firewall as the assembly is lifted. Since the whole thing comes forward as it's lifting due to the arc of the hoist, the trans just clears the brake master cylinder, which was one of my main uncertainties going into it. Another minor concern, however, was well-founded when I ran out of lift with the bottom of the transaxle case less than two inches too low to clear the front bulkhead. After a quick dip of the body, the 2.5L was permanently freed from captivity:

(including shameless salute to my alma mater for a huge win yesterday)
HPIM1919.jpg


I didn't feel like doing much today, but I did begin to undress the engine a little bit, removing the headers, alternator and bracket, and intermediate shaft support. I then separated the trans from the block, which was a bit of a hassle as one of the aligning sleeves was slightly corroded and not letting go of the bellhousing without some delicate prying.

HPIM1924.jpg


Now I need to start actually spending money. As expected, I've already noted a couple things originally unplanned that I need to replace after beginning the teardown. The power steering pump pulley seems to have an unreasonable amount of axial play, and the speed sensor wire insulation is flaked away and the wires are fraying to the point I'm surprised the signal hasn't shorted out yet. So those will be the first two big incidentals. Torsen T2 diff with bearings plus shop labor to install it is up first.
 
Nice.

The Quaife doesn't seem worth the steep premium to me when I don't hear any complaints with the Torsen. PM me a price though if you think you can change my mind!
 
well I believe the Torsen for the MTX75 has been discontinued so dont be surprised if you see the price go up on it quite a bit.

PM sent on the Quaife price
 
well I believe the Torsen for the MTX75 has been discontinued so dont be surprised if you see the price go up on it quite a bit.

PM sent on the Quaife price

Yea they did go up a little bit. Tousley Ford has them listed as below...

Ford Racing p/n: M-4204-F20 MSRP, $769 - on sale for $638

Although that said if you call them and ask for Steve he might be able to get you a better price... I recall only paying $520 for mine.
 
I should be able to order one for much less than that but I'm confirming tomorrow.

Can anyone confirm this is the bearing set I need for diff installation? It's tough to tell from the listing if it includes bearings for both sides.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354395,parttype,2240

As for seals, I assume the Motorcraft ones are also same R/L?
*link removed*

*edit* just found the Motorcraft axle seals on amazon for $2.77 each so I ordered them there.
still wondering about the diff bearings...


Thanks,
 
No progress updates due to Thanksgiving weekend laziness but the axle seals and clutch came in today. For anyone hesitant about ordering an "Exedy" branded clutch, I can confirm that it is in fact actually an OE LuK clutch at almost $50 less on amazon than the same kit advertised as "LuK" (~$30 listed price +$20 shipping). Proof:

Friction disc
photobucket-7004-1322700748519.jpg


Pressure plate
photobucket-1596-1322700723244.jpg


Unfortunately I can also confirm that the Torsen diff is discontinued and I wasn't able to get it through my first contact. I'll have to give Steve at Tousley a try.
 
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