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2001+ Hybrids...

D

Dom1013

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
4
Location
McGuire AFB, NJ
okay...going through these archives is hurting my head, im just gonna ask

Whats up guys, NECO guy checking in...alright now for the stats: 01 Mercury Coug auto-tragic...the dilemma(beside being slow)...I've read that the 01+ heads have the extra oil passage needed to make the hybrid swap work more smoothly so to speak.

Now, doing all the searching through NECO, these board, and archives I see it now and again but I can't seem to find a build-up of it or some "hard" evidence of this or that this is completely true before I buy and 01+ 3L block:shrug:...I mean I'm ready to just buy this block and swap the heads over but I at least wanted to make sure this was good to go before I get started...at least maybe a how-to for the 01+ 3L hybrid builds or something

Thanks guys
 
beyondloadedSE said:
hybrids means 2.5L heads on a 3.0L block. (i.e. no extra oil passage)
Click to expand...

right....but dont you have to block an oil passage on the block or something when you put the 2.5L heads on these swaps? From what I read the 01+ 2.5L heads have the extra oil passage so there is no need to block or weld up any holes...thats what im trying to verify or find a build up on
 
what he said. the beauty of having an 01 or newer is not having to do the hybrid or if you do you do not have to drill for transmission alignment. im building a 98 3L hybrid...with 2.5L heads...and will have to drill another hole for the tranny to bolt up properly. filling the oil return has to be done no matter what on a hybrid. it is no big deal and there are many ways to do it. the only other thing benifitial is the pistons. someone i dont remember who figured out that the 99 and newer pistons are more robust than the 98 and prior due to a redesign. the biggest conserns you have in deciding which type of swap to do are power, budget, and aspiration. as explained by warmonger...
"So I rank the swaps in terms of simplicity, peak power, overall Broad Powerband, and cost/labor.

-3L/2.5L Hybrid with big valves and portwork=best in broad powerband and equal to any other NA motor in Peak power. Highest cost in labor/time.
-3L/2.5L hybrid with no valve or portwork= cheapest and low cost in labor with the lowest peak power returns but reasonably broad powerband. Can be done with just a used 3L short-block.
-3L oval with 2.5L intakes minimal portwork= #2 choice with good overall powerband and peak power. Low cost but still requires a decent 3L Long-block, simple labor.
-3L oval with 2.5L intakes and extensive porting= equivalent to 3L/2.5L hybrid with big valves, except the low end portion of the powerband is a bit lower than the true hybrid from examples of dynos seen so far.
-3L drop in is a full 3L motor and basically it is a Taurus motor. More modifications to the CAR to accept it (none to the motor), cheap but some labor and fabrication. Power is middle of the road due to stock 3L cams and intakes and definitely not great on the top end. Engine bay less attractive and obviously not stock."

hope that helps clean your boots a bit
 
thanks a lot for the reply, did broaden a few things out for me....though im still uncertain on a few things, guess I need to research it some more and get the true meaning of these different hybrids that go on, obviously some of you guys do it a little different than most of the cougars b/c we lack a SVT option and started production in 99...

I got the main concept that putting 2.5L heads on the 3L is a hybrid, but still trying to get the oval porting n all that madness down...and I thought a straight 3L wouldnt drop right in w/the 3L manifolds n all...idk, im jus frustrated gotta big sh*t talkin friend who just got a gsr integra and all day everyday he's talkin about i'll never beat him....but I WILL figure something out
 
Exhibit A....

http://www.geocities.com/svt_mondeo/3L.html


Q. Is the 3L block prone to oil starvation from long handed right turns?

A. yes, (no if u use 2.5L heads of 2001 or newer, Ford undid the mistake of taking out 2 oil return holes in the heads in the original 2.5L heads)*

...I believe this is what Im talkin about right here, now to figure out which manifolds to bolt up
 
that is not the problem. the issue is actually in the oil pan. ford issued a redesigned pan that has more baffling to channel the oil better. trust me i was very worried about that myself. it is a problem with both the 2.5L and the 3L alike. most guys try to fix it though when they do their 3L swap. if you are trying to go forced induction you need to talk to warmonger(Tom) he is the tuning guru and turbo master from what i know and his company sells kits. as for the year difference the cougar is basically a 2 door contour. most anything in the engine of a contour can be used on the cougar...svt cams and such. talk to warmonger. he is the man in the turbo scene. and one very helpful guy
 
kscontourkid said:
that is not the problem. the issue is actually in the oil pan. ford issued a redesigned pan that has more baffling to channel the oil better. trust me i was very worried about that myself. it is a problem with both the 2.5L and the 3L alike. most guys try to fix it though when they do their 3L swap. if you are trying to go forced induction you need to talk to warmonger(Tom) he is the tuning guru and turbo master from what i know and his company sells kits. as for the year difference the cougar is basically a 2 door contour. most anything in the engine of a contour can be used on the cougar...svt cams and such. talk to warmonger. he is the man in the turbo scene. and one very helpful guy
Click to expand...

Theres actually been a large debate as to what the actual issue is.

Some say oil pan design.

Some say its the "sand" issue.

Some say its the lack of oil drains.
 
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