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32mm socket

9

96SEBlack

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
55
Location
KS
I think I know the answer but, will a 1-1/4" socket work on the axle nut or does it have to be 32mm??
 
Well the axle nut is 32mm so use one. You have to TQ that nut to like 100+ ft lbs or something and it would be silly not to use the correct socket for $2.22 :shrug:
 
Thanks! I can easily get my hands on a 1.25 socket, but 32mm not so easy or quick.

I've searched other threads here that say you HAVE to use metric, but after doing the math, I thought I would ask again since if anything 1.25" socket will be a little tighter fit (.0098" under 32mm). That's less than .005" per side.

Just got both axles tonight and am getting tools in order for tomorrow.

Another question: Can this job be done without a slide hammer? The slide hammer I was planning on using is small and doesn't have any of the right attachments. (Autozone, Advance, etc borrow/rental is not an option)
 
Never mind, I just re-read another post and although a slide hammer is preferred, a long pry bar can be used to get the axles out. I'll just do what I can with the tools I have and try to be careful. My worst fear is screwing something else up while doing this.
 
Just try no to ding up the trans case, that's about all you can mess up. And the TQ of 210 FTLBS is correct and don't exceed it, you will trash your bearings.
 
OK, I'm looking at the passenger side now. After I get the axle out of the wheel end, how do I get it out of the other end without a slide hammer? I don't see a good place to pry on to get it loose from the joint. Any ideas?
 
Use the merican one

Use the merican one

In the early days of metric we didn't have access to many metric tools and the stores thought that they were made of gold, so we improvised as much as possible.

Use the merican socket, pretty good fit and it won't round the corners of the nuts. I used this socket in 68 to remove those rear brake drum nuts from vws and I am still using the same socket today.

One doesn't have to be exact, just good enough. If an american socket will work on a metric fastner and not damage the fastner, go for it.

Good luck.
 
96SEBlack said:
OK, I'm looking at the passenger side now. After I get the axle out of the wheel end, how do I get it out of the other end without a slide hammer? I don't see a good place to pry on to get it loose from the joint. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

my Haynes manual says to "use a soft-face mallet to sharply tap the inner CV joint housing from the intermediate shaft. the internal circlip will be released."

when my half shafts come in i will be using a slide hammer so i cant help you any further.
 
axle out, torn ball joint boot

axle out, torn ball joint boot

Thanks, I can say now, from experience, there is no good way to remove the passenger CV axle without a slide hammer.

I borrowed a larger slide hammer but it didn't have the C shaped axle puller attachment, so I made my own. I ended up threading a short piece of 3/8 pipe to M12x1.75 threads to fit the slide hammer, then bent a piece of 3/8 rod to form a U and welded that together to a piece of 3/16x1 flat steel for support. I got the axle out no problem, but it took a lot of hits on the slide to do it.

I had removed the strut with the knuckle/hub still attached to remove the axle and that worked fine. Got the splines lined up and seated the new axle into the "half shaft joint" or whatever it's called fine also. Loosely bolted the strut to the top and got the axle into the hub fine too.

Now my problem is getting the ball joint back together. I can step on the lower control arm and force it down and almost get the ball joint back together. But this looks like a 2 person job, 1 to force the LCA down and another to line up the ball joint and force the knuckle/hub in to get it started. In ****ing around with this myself, I ended up tearing the ball joint boot. The boot didn't look that great to start with, but is definitely torn now.

Any advice on what to do now?
 
Go to a parts store and buy a new ball joint. Grind off the rivets that hold the old one on and bolt in the new ball joint.
 
Thanks. Once I get the old joint ground off, are there any tricks to putting everything back together with the least amount of forcing so I don't ruin anything else?

Gently putting things back seems to be problem for me. I put pictures in my album of what I've done so far. Any advice is appreciated!
 
Fullsize crowbar applied thru hole in LCA to pry down LCA works fine for me, can get knuckle on myself first time, but I'm kinda big guy. I unbolt the midway bearing support from motor on that pass axle and pull out the entire 2 piece assembly, no clip on that side in differential. Easier to split the 2 axles apart out on the bench.
 
Do you put the pry bar through the round hole kind of in the middle of the LCA or back towards the LCA bushings? I'm an average size guy, but can make a lot of torque with the right tools.

Since I will be putting in a new ball joint, can this be the last piece I put in?

I'm thinking I might be able to line up the ball joint, then tighten the 3 bolts to seat it. Is this easier or should I bolt on the new ball joint, seat the axle into the half shaft, loosely install the strut/knuckle, put the axle splines into the hub, then pry the LCA down and try again to get it into the knuckle?

I'm paranoid now about screwing up a new ball joint boot. Thanks for any more advice, pictures or links that may help!
 
I pry down thru middle hole. The axle must already be in hub bearing loosely before you pry down LCA to put knuckle on. That will also help protect boot as axle now supported. Watch the short stub of ball joint. It must be in the same axis as the knuckle or won't go in. If it's bent a little to one side will give you hell. Will not go in unless true to the angle of hole in knuckle, problem is that as you pry LCA around, it will slightly contact knuckle and push stub to one side. Have also seen a tight hole for stub not go back together until wide blade slot screwdriver tapped in bolt slot a little to open up the slot, then it fell right together. Ball joint may have a dimple that fits in a locator on LCA, put it together BEFORE the rest of this stuff. You just gotta watch damaging it while doing other.
 
autozone has a free loan a tool program, i think the axle nuts are like 20 deposits. but you get all ur money back no matter how long you have it... Love that place... Kudos for Autozone.
 
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