Just thought I would write this up real quick because it took me a long time to find the info I needed before tackling this job, even though it’s pretty straight forward.
Why you'd do this:
· Leaking seal - usually shows up as oil on the oil pan and occasional burning oil smell when driving
· Bad Pulley - You might see it wobbling with the car running, mine made some noise and caused some slight vibration while driving.
· Install Dual mode damper
Time required: All done in an hour with the right tools.
Parts:
Seal - part# F5AZ6700A - Engine, Camshaft and timing, Front cover seal, Front cover seal, contour, mystique - 2.5l - 2.5L
Pulley - part# 6E5Z6312AA - Engine, Crankshaft and bearings, Pulley, Engine Crankshaft & bearings Pulley Fusion, Milan, Zephyr - 2.5L
Bolt - part# F5RZ6A340B - Bolt - 3.0 liter 2006 - 2009
Tools:
· Balancer puller - my existing pulley had tapped holes but the replacement did not so check before you start.
· Seal puller
· 18 mm socket for crank pulley bolt
· 3/8” Socket or serpentine belt tensioner tool.
· Longer crank pulley bolt - you need this to suck the pulley in a bit before the replacement bolt will bite! You will need a M12x1.5x60mm (Thanks SVTJON87).
Warnings:
· Don’t turn the crank pulley anti-clockwise – manual says you could bind the timing gear and cause major damage!!! If you have a stick you can put the car in 5th and have someone stand on the brake, in an auto you should probably buy the special tool.
· Don’t beat the pulley on with a hammer – you’ll risk damaging all sorts of stuff connected to the crank!!!
· Don’t score the surface of the timing cover seal – use the right tools or be very careful!!
· Don’t reuse the crank pulley bolt – its torque to yield and one use only.
Here we go...
1. Jack up passenger side and put on jackstand. Remove wheel and front lower splash shield
2. Remove serpentine belt from crank pulley
3. With the crank held (see warnings) undo the crank pulley bolt. There is a washer which will be held in place on the pulley with some RTV that also needs to be removed. This washer is reused.
4. Install balancer puller and hold the crank while you remove the pulley
5. Use seal puller to remove the timing cover seal (see warnings). Take note of how the seal sits in the recess to help with installation of the new one.
6. Install new seal. If you want you can place a little RTV around the outside metal ring on the seal before installing. The seal needs to be beaten into place. Work gently and with a softener. I used the old seal reversed and a light hammer to seat it.
7. Place a dab of RTV in the keyway on the pulley and set it in place. Use the long bolt initially and then switch to the new bolt to fully seat the pulley. Make sure crank is held during torqueing process.
(Torque specs from Haines manual: Torque to 89 ft-lbs; release minimum 1 turn; torque to 35‑39 ft-lbs; turn 90 degrees)
8. Replace serpentine belt
9. Replace splash shield and wheel and lower to ground.
10. You’re done - easy
Credits: Forgot to say that most of this info I gathered from a thread in the archives prior to tackling the job myself.
Why you'd do this:
· Leaking seal - usually shows up as oil on the oil pan and occasional burning oil smell when driving
· Bad Pulley - You might see it wobbling with the car running, mine made some noise and caused some slight vibration while driving.
· Install Dual mode damper
Time required: All done in an hour with the right tools.
Parts:
Seal - part# F5AZ6700A - Engine, Camshaft and timing, Front cover seal, Front cover seal, contour, mystique - 2.5l - 2.5L
Pulley - part# 6E5Z6312AA - Engine, Crankshaft and bearings, Pulley, Engine Crankshaft & bearings Pulley Fusion, Milan, Zephyr - 2.5L
Bolt - part# F5RZ6A340B - Bolt - 3.0 liter 2006 - 2009
Tools:
· Balancer puller - my existing pulley had tapped holes but the replacement did not so check before you start.
· Seal puller
· 18 mm socket for crank pulley bolt
· 3/8” Socket or serpentine belt tensioner tool.
· Longer crank pulley bolt - you need this to suck the pulley in a bit before the replacement bolt will bite! You will need a M12x1.5x60mm (Thanks SVTJON87).
Warnings:
· Don’t turn the crank pulley anti-clockwise – manual says you could bind the timing gear and cause major damage!!! If you have a stick you can put the car in 5th and have someone stand on the brake, in an auto you should probably buy the special tool.
· Don’t beat the pulley on with a hammer – you’ll risk damaging all sorts of stuff connected to the crank!!!
· Don’t score the surface of the timing cover seal – use the right tools or be very careful!!
· Don’t reuse the crank pulley bolt – its torque to yield and one use only.
Here we go...
1. Jack up passenger side and put on jackstand. Remove wheel and front lower splash shield
2. Remove serpentine belt from crank pulley
3. With the crank held (see warnings) undo the crank pulley bolt. There is a washer which will be held in place on the pulley with some RTV that also needs to be removed. This washer is reused.
4. Install balancer puller and hold the crank while you remove the pulley
5. Use seal puller to remove the timing cover seal (see warnings). Take note of how the seal sits in the recess to help with installation of the new one.
6. Install new seal. If you want you can place a little RTV around the outside metal ring on the seal before installing. The seal needs to be beaten into place. Work gently and with a softener. I used the old seal reversed and a light hammer to seat it.
7. Place a dab of RTV in the keyway on the pulley and set it in place. Use the long bolt initially and then switch to the new bolt to fully seat the pulley. Make sure crank is held during torqueing process.
(Torque specs from Haines manual: Torque to 89 ft-lbs; release minimum 1 turn; torque to 35‑39 ft-lbs; turn 90 degrees)
8. Replace serpentine belt
9. Replace splash shield and wheel and lower to ground.
10. You’re done - easy
Credits: Forgot to say that most of this info I gathered from a thread in the archives prior to tackling the job myself.
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