So, ever since I replaced the power steering pump and disturbed the clamped connection for the PS reservoir to pump hose, it's been leaking and leaving a few drops on the garage floor each evening. The hose hadn't aged well, it was hard as a rock and extra/better clamps didn't stem the slow leaks, nor the tendency of the leaky connections to allow air into the suction side of the PS pump, aerating the fluid.
I hate leaks, grrrr...
I didn't find much on the forum about this, so I put together a how-to.
This 18mm I.D. molded hose (F5RZ-3691-A) is long obsolete from the Ford parts bins, I've searched far and wide, no luck, so I decided to make my own. 18mm hose is Unobtanium (Unobtanium is real stuff, you just can't get it...), the closest thing is 3/4", which is 19mm I.D., and it works just fine.
The culprit (click on the thumbnails for a larger picture):
You'll need a few supplies:
1. One 3/4" hose barb 90º el, you need this to get the hose around the strut tower, as it's too tight a radius to bend the hose, and it might collapse and starve the PS pump. Found this part at Amazon.
For reference, this is Part Number 99HB-12 from MettleAir.
2. Two feet of GOOD high temperature synthetic rubber (PKR), Neoprene, or Nitrile-lined low pressure hydraulic hose, 3/4" I.D. This is not the place to cheap out on unknown hose from the auto parts store. I used Parker 836-12 Push-Lok Plus High Temperature Hose, it's about $13 per foot. Do not use heater hose, it's not rated to carry petroleum or mineral oil based fluids and will fail rather quickly. You could also use Earls or Aeroquip 3/4" (-12) push on hose, as both are rated for oil and have enough wall stiffness to avoid collapse in light suction applications.
3. Four good lined or shielded hose clamps, SAE Size 10, these will do nicely: Amazon again. I prefer lined hose clamps because they don't gouge up the outside of the hose.
Drain the PS reservoir best you can, I used a small hose and a hand suction pump, but you can't get everything out of the bottom, so be prepared for a mess.
Tip for removing the PS reservoir from the strut tower: Reach down under the bottom of the PS reservoir and pull the bottom away from the side of the strut tower, then lift up the reservoir, it should slide free of the bracket. Don't pry on it or force it, it's old and brittle and you risk breaking another part that is probably no longer available.
Once the reservoir is free of the tower, you can work off the spring hose clamps from the smaller return hose and the large hose to the pump. Even if you sucked out the fluid from the top, there's still considerable fluid in here, figure out something to catch it, don't let it run all over the accessory belt and pulleys, or you'll have a real mess to clean up. Leave the large hose connected to the reservoir, and then work off the other end from the pump, be prepared to catch the fluid with a pan and some rags under the PS pump inlet tube.
Once the reservoir is free of the car, you can tote it to the bench and build a new hose, lightly tighten the hose clamps at this point.
Put the reservoir and new hose back in the car, you'll need to trim the long piece to length where it connects to the pump. Once it all looks nice tighten all the hose clamps.
Don't forget to re-install and clamp the small bore fluid return line coming up from the steering rack.
I put some spiral wrap on the long leg to protect it from abrasion.
Refill the reservoir with new PS fluid of your choice, start the engine, bleed the PS system, check the reservoir level again, top off as necessary, check for leaks, go have a beer.
I hate leaks, grrrr...
I didn't find much on the forum about this, so I put together a how-to.
This 18mm I.D. molded hose (F5RZ-3691-A) is long obsolete from the Ford parts bins, I've searched far and wide, no luck, so I decided to make my own. 18mm hose is Unobtanium (Unobtanium is real stuff, you just can't get it...), the closest thing is 3/4", which is 19mm I.D., and it works just fine.
The culprit (click on the thumbnails for a larger picture):
You'll need a few supplies:
1. One 3/4" hose barb 90º el, you need this to get the hose around the strut tower, as it's too tight a radius to bend the hose, and it might collapse and starve the PS pump. Found this part at Amazon.
For reference, this is Part Number 99HB-12 from MettleAir.
2. Two feet of GOOD high temperature synthetic rubber (PKR), Neoprene, or Nitrile-lined low pressure hydraulic hose, 3/4" I.D. This is not the place to cheap out on unknown hose from the auto parts store. I used Parker 836-12 Push-Lok Plus High Temperature Hose, it's about $13 per foot. Do not use heater hose, it's not rated to carry petroleum or mineral oil based fluids and will fail rather quickly. You could also use Earls or Aeroquip 3/4" (-12) push on hose, as both are rated for oil and have enough wall stiffness to avoid collapse in light suction applications.
3. Four good lined or shielded hose clamps, SAE Size 10, these will do nicely: Amazon again. I prefer lined hose clamps because they don't gouge up the outside of the hose.
Drain the PS reservoir best you can, I used a small hose and a hand suction pump, but you can't get everything out of the bottom, so be prepared for a mess.
Tip for removing the PS reservoir from the strut tower: Reach down under the bottom of the PS reservoir and pull the bottom away from the side of the strut tower, then lift up the reservoir, it should slide free of the bracket. Don't pry on it or force it, it's old and brittle and you risk breaking another part that is probably no longer available.
Once the reservoir is free of the tower, you can work off the spring hose clamps from the smaller return hose and the large hose to the pump. Even if you sucked out the fluid from the top, there's still considerable fluid in here, figure out something to catch it, don't let it run all over the accessory belt and pulleys, or you'll have a real mess to clean up. Leave the large hose connected to the reservoir, and then work off the other end from the pump, be prepared to catch the fluid with a pan and some rags under the PS pump inlet tube.
Once the reservoir is free of the car, you can tote it to the bench and build a new hose, lightly tighten the hose clamps at this point.
Put the reservoir and new hose back in the car, you'll need to trim the long piece to length where it connects to the pump. Once it all looks nice tighten all the hose clamps.
Don't forget to re-install and clamp the small bore fluid return line coming up from the steering rack.
I put some spiral wrap on the long leg to protect it from abrasion.
Refill the reservoir with new PS fluid of your choice, start the engine, bleed the PS system, check the reservoir level again, top off as necessary, check for leaks, go have a beer.