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Installed mustang TB

S

starjammir

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
2,307
Location
Lapeer, Mi
Now I have the throttle hang and my pedal is about 2 inches low than it was with the svt TB. Also, my cars throttle is really touchy. Is this because of the mustang TB?
I did not use the svt shaft just modified the mustang one to work.
Any suggestions are welcome
Bill
 
Yeah, I suggest doing what I suggested earlier and converting the springs and fulcrum over.

Search the old foums under duratec performance I think, there was a nice big thread with pictures and such. You can do it without welding you know.
 
I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark
 
Y2KSVT said:
I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark
Click to expand...

Do you have pictures?
 
Y2KSVT said:
I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark
Click to expand...

What do you say this last part?

I converted a 65mm with all the svt hardware including the SVT shaft. I built it for DanG. Mainly I just widened the slot that held the throttle plate from the SVT shaft to accept the 65mm plate. Takes a bit of time but it isn't hard. The reinstall and adjust with SVT springs.

It is the 70mm TBs that actually require welding or shaft extension.
 
I was just clearing up that you don't NEED to use any of the SVT parts on the 65mm T/B swap. With my first 65mm T/B, and the 65mm T/B that Jim(BeyondloadedSE) is still running, we both swapped over the SVT shaft and spring. It was when I sold my SVT T/B, that I did another 65mm T/B, using all of the 65mm parts. Using the SVT shaft, you are required to optimize the shaft to fit the plate, where you don't need to with the 65mm shaft.

There have been a lot of questions(atleast on the old forum) on what is needed for the 65mm T/B. I'm just advising what I personally found to be the easiest method. :)

Mark
 
65mm linkage woes

65mm linkage woes

Y2KSVT said:
I was just clearing up that you don't NEED to use any of the SVT parts on the 65mm T/B swap. With my first 65mm T/B, and the 65mm T/B that Jim(BeyondloadedSE) is still running, we both swapped over the SVT shaft and spring. It was when I sold my SVT T/B, that I did another 65mm T/B, using all of the 65mm parts. Using the SVT shaft, you are required to optimize the shaft to fit the plate, where you don't need to with the 65mm shaft.
Click to expand...
However you still need to take up the cable slack when you are using the 65mm TB with a reversed "65mm" shaft & linkage. Since the 65mm cam is not ramped like the SVT unit there is a fair amount of slop in the SVT throttle cable. It is a distinct likelihood non-SVT's do not have this problem with cable slack since they use a different cable.

To fix this problem the simple solution is to put a spacer between the cable stop and the accelerator pedal.

One significant drawback to running the 65mm shaft and using the extra bent linkage bracket as a stop is the linkage is very prone to bending. This will cause the throttle plate to over center and start closing off airflow. This is the exact reason why I switched from using the 65mm shaft/linkage to using the SVT shaft/linkage. I originally did not want to tear up my good SVT TB but this problem was just such a PITA. This is the type of problem that only gets progressively worse!

Running a 65mm TB and your power is falling flat at 6000rpm or so??? Check it out. Seriously!
 
DemonSVT said:
However you still need to take up the cable slack when you are using the 65mm TB with a reversed "65mm" shaft & linkage. Since the 65mm cam is not ramped like the SVT unit there is a fair amount of slop in the SVT throttle cable. It is a distinct likelihood non-SVT's do not have this problem with cable slack since they use a different cable.

To fix this problem the simple solution is to put a spacer between the cable stop and the accelerator pedal.

One significant drawback to running the 65mm shaft and using the extra bent linkage bracket as a stop is the linkage is very prone to bending. This will cause the throttle plate to over center and start closing off airflow. This is the exact reason why I switched from using the 65mm shaft/linkage to using the SVT shaft/linkage. I originally did not want to tear up my good SVT TB but this problem was just such a PITA. This is the type of problem that only gets progressively worse!

Running a 65mm TB and your power is falling flat at 6000rpm or so??? Check it out. Seriously!
Click to expand...

I never had to make any type of spacer.:confused: How much slack are you talking here? It could be, because I was using the SVT cable-stop, where it wasn't rotating the cable down into the groove of the cam. I mentioned this in another thread I started, since my cable had almost completely broke off of the cable stop. So I had to cut ~1/2" of my cable off, as it was pretty rough, and then another ~1/4" was taken up, when I slid it through the new cable stop. So a little under an inch of slack was taken up when I put the new cable stop on.

As for power drop off after 6000 rpms, I haven't noticed it. I'll look at my dyno graphs again, but I don't remember that being the case. Also, I personally did the 65mm T/B because I was running nitrous. I plan to run another kit in the future.

Mark
 
DemonSVT said:
I switched from using the 65mm shaft/linkage to using the SVT shaft/linkage. I originally did not want to tear up my good SVT TB but this problem was just such a PITA.
Click to expand...

I bought a cracked SVT TB and was planning on cutting the Linkage off the end of the SVT shaft and bolting it onto the GT shaft and use the GT shaft with the GT TPS. I was going by the long discussion thread that is on the old CEG forums that had all the nice pics and stuff showing the the SVT shaft is shorter than the GT shaft and doesn't connect to the TPS correctly.

You are saying just take the SVT shaft and grind it so the GT butterfly fits on it and use it and the SVT springs. Will there be a problem with the TPS?


Is it also possible to use the SVT TPS in the GT TB? I my GT TB didn't come with the TPS and I really don't want to buy one if I don't have to.

I'm currently polishing the GT TB, which is a major PITA, so I haven't disassembled either for close inspection.


Pics of modifying the GT Linkage would be a great help.
 
RodneyBur said:
You are saying just take the SVT shaft and grind it so the GT butterfly fits on it and use it and the SVT springs.
Will there be a problem with the TPS?
Is it also possible to use the SVT TPS in the GT TB?
Click to expand...
Yes, no, & yes.

I actually used a hack saw blade by hand to cut the larger plate slot in the SVT shaft. You have much more control.

Yes the 3L engines, SVT, and 4.6L SOHC engines all use the same TPS.
 
Yes.

Your SVT shaft correctly fits the 65mm GT housing, there is enough room between the orings and bearings and the TPS works correctly. THe linkage, springs and all that end up in the right spot. All you have to do is widen the slot that fits the plate.

Do I get a sense of DejaVu rerwriting this, and after reading Demons post... :p
 
That is so ****ING SWEET.... I'm glad I invested 30 bucks in that SVT TB. Hell ****ing yeah......

Any suggestions on removing the TPS? I've heard that the bolts are really tight and can lead to a little striping. I'm probably gonna get new bolts (stainless hopefully) so it doesn't really matter as long as I get them out.
 
RodneyBur said:
Any suggestions on removing the TPS? I've heard that the bolts are really tight and can lead to a little striping.
Click to expand...
Press hard!!! :p

Seriously though. Make sure you use a large size (head) Phillips screw driver. Most people use a screw driver that is too small for the job. That makes the screw head much more prone to stripping.
 
On top of that, I've locked the TB down on the bench with a c-clamp then used a pair of channel-lock pliers around the screw head combined with a phillips head screwdriver to get the screw started turning. Takes a bit of coordination but it will keep it from stripping usually.

For any that have trouble at that point I have an impact driver. That is a valuable little tool that you can put socket heads on or phillips/flat screwdriver bits into. You put it into the screw head and hit the top with a hammer. The impact both shocks the screw and turns it the way the tool is set.
If you do much work you could invest in one they aren't that expensive.
 
warmonger said:
On top of that, I've locked the TB down on the bench with a c-clamp then used a pair of channel-lock pliers around the screw head combined with a phillips head screwdriver to get the screw started turning. Takes a bit of coordination but it will keep it from stripping usually.

For any that have trouble at that point I have an impact driver. That is a valuable little tool that you can put socket heads on or phillips/flat screwdriver bits into. You put it into the screw head and hit the top with a hammer. The impact both shocks the screw and turns it the way the tool is set.
If you do much work you could invest in one they aren't that expensive.
Click to expand...


I love those impact screw drivers. Very helpful on both TPS bolts, and on LIM butterfly bolts!
 
I used an impact driver once and (maybe hit just a bit too hard but) cracked the TB housing. I've found that one of those offset (looks like a little "S" or "Z" if you will) phillips screwdrivers gives the best results. You can get quite a bit of torque out of them too.
 
To fix my problem I had made a stop bracket out of a 1/4" steel plate. Then I drilled and tapped a hole on the little ledge of the throttle body. I had used only the SVT shaft and linkage. And the TP is 4.75V at WOT. Had worked thus far. I will have to snag a pic of it sometime.
 
is the stock 3L tb shaft the same as the mustang tb shaft? I just got a PnP's mustang tb and it pulls the wrong direction :(
 
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