Need Advice: Hose broke, coolant leaked, won't start...

[kernsb]

I am in need of some advice from the Contour experts here.

I pretty much have no skills when it comes to fixing my own vehicles, but I am definately trying to learn to save myself cash down the road. Currently, I usually still call my Dad when a car needs fixing (Sad, i know), so if I butcher terms or make myself sound stupid, please be gentle

Here's the background story:

1996 Contour (4 Cylinder - Automatic)

I had thought my Countor to be running pretty well lately, but when driving home from work one day I noticed the accelerator wasn't being very responsive. About 15-20 seconds later I was getting ready to turn onto the road in front of my edition, when I noticed some thin white smoke in the rear-view mirror - but nothing from the hood that was impairing my vision or anything. I was so close to home that I thought "Ok, I'll baby it home and see what's up." Well, as I made my turn the car completely died and I coasted it onto the shoulder.

After pushing it home we figured out that a small little hose had a blown a large hole and leaked out all of the coolant. So, we replaced the hose without a problem and refilled the coolant. However the car still won't start. It will crank, and if you hold the gas down to the floor it will kick a little sometimes. It seems that we have fuel, but no spark.

What could have fried when the coolant/steam was spraying out that would cause this?

Where would you guys start and what would you replace first??

Any ideas or advice at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.

 

[Tony2005]

Welcome .

"What could have fried when the coolant/steam was spraying out that would cause this?

Where would you guys start and what would you replace first??"

You may have blown a headgasket. Let's assume you do not.

Start by changing the oil and oil filter. Check the consistency of the oil. If it is milky (emulsion like), chances are you have a blown headgasket. You can confirm with a blown headgasket test (in the M&M How To forum)

If that is not the case, chances are your Check Engine Light is on. As you can't drive it to Autozone or Advance, you may have to borrow a OBD-II code scanner (or reader). They start at $70 from Autozone. When you have the codes, post the exact codes here and we can go from there.

Things you can check are wires (whether any have gone loose or melted due to overheating), loose battery cable connection, loose spark plug wire connection. Loose crankshaft and camshaft connections. Check all this and then come back and post new info.

Edit. Autozone links for the Camshaft Postion Sensor (CMP) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP). Check the wiring at the connectors first.

CMP
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/7c/0900823d801bcb7c.jsp

CKP
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/c4/47/0900823d801bc447.jsp

How many miles on the car?

 

[kernsb]

Thanks very much for those suggestions. I'll try those asap.

On the codes, the check engine light was on I'm sure, but the battery has since died and had to be replaced (the car has been sitting in my garage for about 3 months now). So, unfortunately, I'm not sure if the codes will still be stored or not.

 

[Tony2005]

The codes will be gone if the battery is completely discharged or replaced. If it has not been replaced with a new one, charge the old one up, then try starting it after changing the oil and filter.

Edit. El cheapo headgasket leak test.

1) Fill coolant to the brim on recovery tank (leave cap off).

2) Remove all spark plug wires.

3) Remove all but one spark plug and have someone crank the engine.

4) If the coolant bubbles over, there is a leak from that portion of the engine
(or cylinder). If not, go to the next cylinder, and then the next.... (removing spark plug from previous cylinder and install spark plug for this cylinder....)

5) Note, it could be more than one area or more than one cylinder.

 

[kernsb]

OK, so regardless of the possibility of the blow headgasket, we're positive now that no pulses are making it to the coil pack from the PCM.

Is there any way to test to see if the PCM is bad, and what could it be in-between the PCM and the coil pack that would have been affected by this?

We cannot visually see any burnt or melted wires. Also, the codes have been lost.

Thanks again for any help.

 

[Tony2005]

... we're positive now that no pulses are making it to the coil pack from the PCM.

Is there any way to test to see if the PCM is bad, and what could it be in-between the PCM and the coil pack that would have been affected by this?
....

Before you go any further, have you charged up the battery well? Even a "new" battery can loose its power if it hasn't been charged in 3 months.

And have you checked all the fuses and relays (especially F30 and R11)?

From Ray,

a list of fuses for the entire car:


"FUSE LIST" (just said these so it comes up in searches)
FUSE DIAGRAM



FUSES
ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Fuse # - Amp - Color - Circuit
1 - 80 - Black - Main power
2 - 60 - Yellow - Engine cooling fan
3 - 60 - Yellow - ABS braking system, Heater blower motor
4 - 20 - Yellow - Daytime running lights
5 - 15 - Light Blue - Fog lamp
6 - Not used
7 - 20 - Yellow - ABS system
8 - Not used
9 - 20 - Light Blue - ECU
10 - 20 - Light Blue - Ignition switch
11 - 3 - Violet - ECU memory
12 - 15 - Light Blue - Horn, Hazard flasher warning system
13 - 20 - Yellow - Oxygen sensor
14 - 15 - Light Blue - Fuel pump
15 - 10 - Red - Low beam, passenger side
16 - 10 - Red - Low beam, driver's side
17 - 10 - Red - High beam, passenger side
18 - 10 - Red - High beam, driver's side
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Fuse # - Amp - Color - Circuit
19 - Not used
20 - 10 - Black - Wiper motors (circuit breaker)
21 - 40 - Orange - Power windows
22 - 7.5 - Brown - ABS module
23 - 15 - Light Blue - Backup lights
24 - 15 - Light Blue - Brake lights
25 - 20 - Yellow - Door locks
26 - 7.5 - Brown - Main light
27 - 15 - Light Blue - Cigarette lighter
28 - 30 - Light Green - Electric seats
29 - 30 - Light Green - Rear window defroster
30 - 7.5 - Brown - Engine management system
31 - 7.5 - Brown - Instrument panel illumination
32 - 7.5 - Brown - Radio
33 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lamps - drivers side
34 - 7.5 - Brown - Interior lights, electric side mirrors, clock
35 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lights - passenger side
36 - 10 - Red - Air bag
37 - 30 - Light Green - Heater blower motor
38 - Not used


RELAYS
ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Relay - Circuit
R1 - Daytime running lights
R2 - Radiator fan, high speed
R3 - Air conditioning
R4 - Air conditioning clutch
R5 - Radiator fan, low speed
R6 - Starter solenoid
R7 - Horn
R8 - Fuel pump
R9 - Headlight, low beam
R10 - Headlight, high beam
R11 - ECU module
D1 - Reverse voltage protection
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE B0X
Relay - Circuit
R12 - Interior lighting
R13 - Rear window defroster
R14 - Heater blower motor
R15 - Wiper motor
R16 - Ignition
D2 - Reverse voltage protection

Edit. Good advice from one newb to another.

.......
I learned some important things (NEW8 alert):

1. Searching the forums works and reading all suggested threads works very well.
2. ...........
3. Testing every single fuse with an ohmeter is easy and should be done for all problems. Why not? Unless you know the entire electircal schematic you have no idea which fuse is inline to another...

And to download an Owners' Manual free, www.fleet.ford.com