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No heat | Suggestions please

M

Myrosia

CEG'er
Joined
May 27, 2003
Messages
171
Location
Shelby Twp, Michigan
I am in Michigan.

1999 Ford Contour (2.0L SFI DOHC)

My car's temperature gauge will not move at all and I have very little heat.

Could this be the thermostat. If so, which type should I purchase? I have to also consider the summer months.

Valucraft / Thermostat - Med temp-180 degree
Failsafe / Thermostat - High temp-195 degree

Or is there another type I should use?

Thanks
 
For michigan I'd go with the low one. It gets too hot in summer for the high end one.
 
keep in mind that your engine is coputer controlled. try to stick as close as possible to oem specs. if your engine runs too cold the computer will adapt and cause it to run more rich. i would check and see how much to oe t-stat is.
 
The system was designed to use a 190-195 thermostat. Use it. Anything else will keep the system cooler than intended and will effect economy, emissions, and engine wear.

A system temp of up to 205-215 is perfectly normal any time of year. Again, that's how it was designed.

Steve
 
Remember to put an asprin to hold the new thermostat slightly open when you start the car afterwards.

Mike
 
mrutkaus said:
Remember to put an asprin to hold the new thermostat slightly open when you start the car afterwards.

Mike
Click to expand...


a spring? is that what you meant? why in the world would you do that? so it can fall out and get stuck somewhere in the cooling system :confused:

most thermostats have a small bypass hole build right in ...
 
Did not mean to confuse, it is certainly not necessary to put an asprin in the thermostat. It just makes water circulation faster when you start the car again and of course it dissolves quickly and causes no harm.

Michael
 
The system was designed to use a 190-195 thermostat. Use it. Anything else will keep the system cooler than intended and will effect economy, emissions, and engine wear.

A system temp of up to 205-215 is perfectly normal any time of year. Again, that's how it was designed.

nicely done steve. the aspirin is a nice idea (old mechanics trick on chev small blocks) but more trouble than its worth, just install a quality t-stat and be done with it.
 
An asprin, some people put an asprin in to hold the thermostat open to make warming up faster, no big deal either way.

Mike
 
mrutkaus said:
An asprin, some people put an asprin in to hold the thermostat open to make warming up faster, no big deal either way.

Mike
Click to expand...

I don't see how that is going to make it warm up fast. the thermostat prevents the flow of coolant and then opens to cool the engine down. leaving it open is like using a lower temp thermostat, it keeps the engine cooler ...
 
Shouldn't have mentioned it! However once you've drained and refilled everything there can be air pockets; if water flows faster when you start the car afterwards you have a better chance of quickly eliminating those air pockets and avoiding any theoretical damage.

Mike
 
mrutkaus said:
Shouldn't have mentioned it! However once you've drained and refilled everything there can be air pockets; if water flows faster when you start the car afterwards you have a better chance of quickly eliminating those air pockets and avoiding any theoretical damage.

Mike
Click to expand...

why not mention it, its tuning into a good discussion. I see your point about air bubles but still never have heard of this before.
 
gyrosia,is that no heat at all

gyrosia,is that no heat at all

I'm having a heating problem as well. I'm not getting any heat reading at all and I'm wondering if it's the t-stat or perhap the sensor, I'm feeling heat on the outlet hose of the t-stat housing and when taking a look at the connector I saw what looked like a possible electrical tape repair. JoeM hooked me up with a complete t-stat hoousing and sensors, so I'm thinking of pulling the housing and replacing everything, then I got a new connector from the junkyard. I have no way of telling whether or not there is hot air blowing because I beleive the blower motor may be out. Got everything needed, I think I'm going to start with the blower motor, then if I'm seeing no power or one setting from the new blower I'm gonna change the resistor out. Then depending on if I'm getting heat out of the controls I know how much I'll have to tackle under the hood.
 
mrutkaus said:
Shouldn't have mentioned it! However once you've drained and refilled everything there can be air pockets; if water flows faster when you start the car afterwards you have a better chance of quickly eliminating those air pockets and avoiding any theoretical damage.

Mike
Click to expand...
I have recommeded this previously for thermostat installs and have done it for my own thermostat install. Did not have "overheating due to air pockets" issue after that. Can't say that I would have if I did not put the aspirins.

This was something I read in a magazine a few years ago when I was at a shop while waiting for my safety inspection.

Leaving the reservoir cap loose for a day or two of driving, or massaging the upper coolant hoses would help too. But the aspirin deal is easier and safer (IMHO). Actually, two aspirins are better and easier.
 
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