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Officially Shot 90k 2.5L Duratec

N

NiggShevik

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
196
I have just gotten my car back from the shop. They replaced timing chains/tensioners. I had brought my car in for a spinning/ticking/rattling noise that had gradually become louder from just a small ticking sound which i at first thought was the clutch.

Today I got my ride back, i wasn't charged anything because the sound got 100x worse and the CEL is now on when it wasn't before. My car now sounds like there is a loose wrench inside. It sounds amazingly beat up.

Anyway, my car is worse off than when i brought it in. The engine really wants to stall, and it stalled on the mechanic and he was unable to revive it... that's new to me. I was nervously driving it home today and every time i came to a stop it felt like it wanted to stall.

The loose-wrench noise is incredibly loud and gets louder and faster when i rev it up.

Anyway, I don't think I'm even going to try to fix this engine. Anybody have an estimate as to how many hours of labor are required to successfully perform a 3l engine swap at a decent shop? This seems to be the only avenue left to take.
 
i have the EXACT problem wtf should we do!?!??!!

first time i heard the noise i parked the car (i have graduation stuff all this week) so its sat for like 5 days, started it today and sounded like there where rocks just flying inside the engine.....
 
Send the car to stazi, or someone else in EGL who knows whats up, pay them the money and be satisfied.

or if you dont want to deal with it ill take the hunk of junk off your hands for 50 dollars.
 
I'm surprised (well maybe not, "sigh") that either of you guys (or anyone for that matter) would drive around with engines making sounds like the devil's anvil. Even if it was a serpentine belt coming apart, why would anyone drive around so that it gets worse? Sure, that's one way to finally find out what's making the noise but it's not going to fix itself and as the saying goes, you'll either pay now or later and later's liable to be more expensive.

The short answer will probably be that it's 3L time! :idea: Your mileage may vary.
Karl
 
If it helps, I've got a couple guys here in Mass. that are very thorough and honest. If it were me, and I were at my wits end with a problem, I'd let them take a crack at it. If the motor isn't salvageable, I know they have the suds to fire out an engine swap. They're in Beverly, Mass., about 100 miles from Sandwich. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want their contact info.
 
3L seems like a must. I've been searching but, is the escape 3l better than a taurus in the sense that there is less to prep?
 
Unfortunately, many mechanics can't handle the Contour's mechanisms. I am starting to find that out more and more in recent times. :blackeye:
 
This worries me, my engine is at 92k and it is making a slight rattle.
I thought it was the heat shield, but when i put then clutch in it stops.
when i make a 180 turn in dead ends, it gets worse. When i rev up, it goes away. When i idle it gets bad. *Crosses fingers*:shrug:
 
Tony2005 said:
Unfortunately, many mechanics can't handle the Contour's mechanisms. I am starting to find that out more and more in recent times. :blackeye:
Click to expand...
I suppose you're right. I think it has something to do with the lack of room in the engine bay with a V6 in there. My neighbor's Accord has a V6 and you can get to about any accessory in there for all the room there is. Even some Ford dealers don't like to work on Contiques. When I was a tech, no one wanted to work on Lincoln Mark III's and the Thunderbird they were derived from as there just wasn't any room in the engine bay (plus it was set back about 3 feet!) and there were too many other "luxury items" that broke so I know how that is. Still, with the number of Duratec powered cars in the world, you'd think that by now there'd be plenty of information out there on how to fix them. :confused:
Karl
 
Never understand why ppl don't put locations next to names. A little easier to direct others towards ppl that can help. :idea:
 
crazyj0n said:
This worries me, my engine is at 92k and it is making a slight rattle. I thought it was the heat shield, but when i put then clutch in it stops. when i make a 180 turn in dead ends, it gets worse. When i rev up, it goes away. When i idle it gets bad. *Crosses fingers*:shrug:
Click to expand...
The general idea is to determine if what you are hearing is really a "rattle type noise" (are there parts flying around loose) or is it somethiing else. A lot of things make a rattle type sound but they aren't really rattles in the common definition of the word. Well, actually a rattle is a musical instrument or a baby toy so rattle may not be a good word to use at all. An engine can make a rattle type noise when it's being lugged in too high of a gear. Engine ping can sound like a rattle type noise. That rattle type noise you hear when the clutch pedal is not depressed is probably gear roll-over noise and everyone's MTX does that to a certain extent. It's just the way the gears are cut. You also first said that the rattle is slight and but then you add that when you idle it gets bad. This can be confusing. Maybe if you can be more precise, it will be easier to sort these noises out.
Karl
 
Check out LKQCorp.com and look for a location near you. I found a 2005 Taurus motor with 9K miles for $350. I think that may be a better bet for you. I'm not 100%, but, I believe the preferred motor is an 01 (or was it an 02) or newer motor. Some sort of difference with the motor you picked out would make it slightly harder.
 
that link was very helpful, looks like i'll be getting my engine from here. Once i have the 3l in my possession, and the 2.5L out... how much work is left? Do some parts from the 2.5 need to be transferred and then it's ready to go?
 
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