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OH GOD, that noise! I think I'm screwed

K

KAOS_3.0

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
May 16, 2008
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ok well the little rattle, developed into a little tap, which today developed into a horrible noise. it still taps, but the tap is now accompanied by a hap-hazard clatter, as well as a hamster cage squirrely squeaky kind of noise like a bad universal on a RWD.

when I pulled the front valve cover (easiest), nothing looks unusual, cams look good, dont see a timing chain guide liner loose or anything, but when I dip my finger in the oil that pools up, it has fine-medium aluminum shavings in it.

I have my belief as to what this means, but I'd like extra input before I shoot myself in the head.

thanks guys
 
Bearings are toast. Nice work.... Sorry to see this happen to you... Partly because it sucks, and partly because I really don't want to see another thread where you disregard everyones good advice.
 
but I'd like extra input before I shoot myself in the head
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I would just go ahead and pull the trigger. When your car goes up for sale because you are tired of working on it PM me or Thinkmoto, we are always looking for a project.
 
yeah, thats pretty much what I thought.

so... is it possible to pull the windage tray of the bottom of the block and throw some clevites in without pulling the engine? or will it absolutely require me to pull the engine and crack it open?

also, in the case the rod end is egg shaped beyond just stuffing a new bearing in, can I use the old rods from the 2.5?

and in that case, has a single living soul ever heard of shoving a piston back in from the bottom? or is that just completely insane?

just trying to determine how much this is going to cost me and how much longer it will be before I can get back on the road.

this timing is perfect too, since I have 45 days from the 9th of this month before the realestate gods make me homeless and I still need to get all of my belongings into storage and I'm completely broke.
 
Dont even bother. Buy a new block, put in a stock oval port motor DONT :censored::censored::censored::censored: WITH THE INTERNALS AS YOU'VE PROVEN YOU CANT HANDLE IT!
 
Cheaper to just go ahead and put in the full 3L like Pud said. It sucks, but you can sell the SVT engine/intake parts to re-coop some of the costs again. Sorry dude.
 
um, huh?

I dont have an svt, this is an oval port '02 3.0.

sooo, anybody around here have a good 3.0 short block the'd like to part with in that instance?

or... how much does it run to have a shop put some bearings in?

PS: pud... you dont always have to be such a dick all the time.
 
You can swap out bearings from below. You cannot pull a piston from the bottom. For the cost of bearings I would try it first. But it does not look good for your motor.
 
if you spun rod bearings, you probably have to replace the rod, or have the bearing journals polished or milled. if it spun bad enough to make metal shavings, they are probably in the oil pump too.
 
Or you can send me your car and I can drop another 3L in it for you for a price....
 
i don't like breaking factory seal on that stuff.... never had a rod bearing problem. mostly just puddles or nitrous killing my motors.... lol.
 
man, your whole build was set up for failure from the start. You didnt take anyones advice, now your motor is cooked and you are back looking for advice. why bother, when you arent going to take any of it?

Did you change your oil after you fixed the coil pack like i told you to? You probably diluted your oil with gas from running on 2 cylinders, and your oil is compromised.

Are you sure it is a rod bearing? you said there was aluminum shavings in the oil, how could that be from rod bearings? rods arent aluminum, rod bearing arent aluminum, crank isnt. if you spun a bearing it wouldnt be aluminum. Aluminum could be from a cam cap. did you change the cams? if so, are you sure you put the caps on correct?

this swap had no shot. you should have used your stock injectors from the start. People always try to change 10 things "while they have it apart", so when you get it back together you have no clue why it doesnt work. just like when yours didnt run, you changed 1) engine 2) resistor hack 3) injectors 4) injector connectors 5) coil pack 6) coil pack wiring. You see why you had so much trouble figuring out what you did wrong.

If I were you, I would have changed the engine only. than when it started and ran, I would have gone back to change the coil. made sure it ran. order a tune and swapped the injectors, made sure it ran.

on second thought, I just wasted 5 min of my life. You didnt take my advice from the start, why would you now? Instead, you are going to drop the oil pan and see if you can swap rod bearings on your back on the floor with oil dripping on on your face when you dont know what went wrong in the first place. I cant wait to see what happens next
 
Pudmunkie said:
because the ones you did on this motor tanked. and if you didn't do them or didn't inspect them.....
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didn't do them.

the majority of people told me it was unnecessary on an engine with only 27K on it.

as far as inspecting them, that wouldn't have shown the damage done to them by the whole coil pack connector debacle.

lets all put our hands together for dom, he successfully screwed me, yay!

BADSVT said:
why ask again? double post??? Odd:ponder:. both posts are far apart:confused:
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internet screwing up on me, reposting when I refresh the page...


turbo_fox said:
man, your whole build was set up for failure from the start. You didnt take anyones advice, now your motor is cooked and you are back looking for advice. why bother, when you arent going to take any of it?

Did you change your oil after you fixed the coil pack like i told you to? You probably diluted your oil with gas from running on 2 cylinders, and your oil is compromised.

Are you sure it is a rod bearing? you said there was aluminum shavings in the oil, how could that be from rod bearings? rods arent aluminum, rod bearing arent aluminum, crank isnt. if you spun a bearing it wouldnt be aluminum. Aluminum could be from a cam cap. did you change the cams? if so, are you sure you put the caps on correct?

this swap had no shot. you should have used your stock injectors from the start. People always try to change 10 things "while they have it apart", so when you get it back together you have no clue why it doesnt work. just like when yours didnt run, you changed 1) engine 2) resistor hack 3) injectors 4) injector connectors 5) coil pack 6) coil pack wiring. You see why you had so much trouble figuring out what you did wrong.

If I were you, I would have changed the engine only. than when it started and ran, I would have gone back to change the coil. made sure it ran. order a tune and swapped the injectors, made sure it ran.

on second thought, I just wasted 5 min of my life. You didnt take my advice from the start, why would you now? Instead, you are going to drop the oil pan and see if you can swap rod bearings on your back on the floor with oil dripping on on your face when you dont know what went wrong in the first place. I cant wait to see what happens next
Click to expand...

man I hear ya.

I try to take all the advice I can, but I do have severe financial issues over here with no transportation and a house thats being forclosed.

I did change the oil, although I'd say it's shot again now.

aluminum would be rod bearings, the bearing liners are aluminum dude.

+1 about all the changes though man, but hindsight is always 20/20. only thing I really needed to change was the coil pack because the old one was screwed.

about doing bearings on my back, I dont care how hard it is to do, I just need to get a ball micrometer so I can check to see if the rod ends are screwed. I do like the simplicity of just dropping another 3.0 in though. we'll see.

what is the success rate of replacing bearings in an engine thats spun one?
 
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