On my way home last night, I noticed my overdrive light blinking. I pushed the O/D button on the shifter, and the car sounded like it went into neutral. Then back into gear. Then I turned the car off, and started it back up, and the O/D light was off, and hasn't come on sense. The car will not shift into overdrive now. The car wouldn't move at at a stop light until the RPM got higher, and it chirped the tires. And then when on the way home, while starting from a light, it started to act normal, except I have to push the gas pedal down a little farther for it to start moving.... Also. When I'm at a light, I don't need to put my foot on the brake pedal when it's in drive. It won't move when it's in drive, and my foot is off the brake pedal... I know it's not the VSS. I changed that last year. And I called Autozone to see if they have the MLPS and TSS sensor, and they don't carry them. Does anyone have the part numbers and a cheap dealership to get these from? Or if anyone has any ideas on what could be wrong with my contour, i'm all ears. 95 or 96 2.0 with automatic trans.... And please don't tell me to change the ATX fluid... It's been changed, it's clean, fresh, correct amount, period. Thanks
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overdrive light blinking
- Thread starter dober450r
- Start date
imstock
Veteran CEG'er
I don't think it's a sensor or anything electric. It sounds like a problem with your transmission itself. I had similar issues with a G10 van a few years ago. We had to have the bands replaced. Not sure if the transmission in the Contour is the same or not, but besides the flashing light the issue certainly doesn't sound electrical.
For the "OD off" light to come on, it is usually a wiring problem, VSS, MLPS, TSS, low fluid or internal transmission problem. Getting it scanned with the tranny codes will go a long way. Sometimes, a hard code could be stored in the PCM. So see if there is a Check Engine light code.
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Ok, but when you DID change the ATX fluid, what did it look like? The fluid tells all when it comes to these transmissions. As for the O/D light blinking, that is usually indicative of a major failure of some sort. If often times happens with broken bands (Gear 2 incorrect ratio/Gear 4 incorrect ratio), and torque converter problems, like stuck or slipping torque converter clutch. Personally, sounds like you have a torque converter clutch problem. Get your codes scanned, as it should be stored in memory.
mavric240
New CEG'er
I had this problem on my '97 2.0. I found that the brindle switch was cause of the codes. Replaced the brindle switch which is right on top of the trans and problem solved.
Motorcraft part # short - SW-6274 long # 6L8Z-7F293-AA
Motorcraft part # short - SW-6274 long # 6L8Z-7F293-AA
so, delayed engagement, and having to rev the engine to get the ATX to grab.
The engine RPM increases the main line pressure in any automatic.
I know this is not what you want to hear but it sounds like there is some serious internal failure, like clutch packs are probably toast.
If for some miraculous reason it starts acting normal again, that is fine but if it continues to act this way, total failure is inevitable.
If you can drive it enough to get it to a shop, that should be the next stop. Don't drive it around if you do not really have to cause it will leave you stranded once something else finally breaks.
Once again I know this is not what you want to hear but honestly, replacing sensors or cleaning connectors is not going to solve the problem. Time for a rebuild.
The engine RPM increases the main line pressure in any automatic.
I know this is not what you want to hear but it sounds like there is some serious internal failure, like clutch packs are probably toast.
If for some miraculous reason it starts acting normal again, that is fine but if it continues to act this way, total failure is inevitable.
If you can drive it enough to get it to a shop, that should be the next stop. Don't drive it around if you do not really have to cause it will leave you stranded once something else finally breaks.
Once again I know this is not what you want to hear but honestly, replacing sensors or cleaning connectors is not going to solve the problem. Time for a rebuild.
hogan0181
CEG'er
overdrive
overdrive
Pull codes should be your first step. Did you notice any hesitation whatsoever before the light started blinking, if you did pull the plugs and inspect as well with the wires. O/D light flashing can be a representation of a misfire at or near a shift point in the trans without setting a DTC in the computer. Inspect for metallic flakes and smell the trans fluid the smell will tell you whether or not you have a burnt clutch pack. Ease up through the gears and see if it slips on a short drive, Pay attention on when it does it, what gear and conditions. Does it stall when you come to a stop, or under intial load until you reach a low torque condition. Signs of a torque converter going bad. If it slips consistently all the time I would start thinking about a rebuild. Hope this helps. Do these in the easiest steps for yourself. I work at a Ford dealer when I am in the states.
overdrive
Pull codes should be your first step. Did you notice any hesitation whatsoever before the light started blinking, if you did pull the plugs and inspect as well with the wires. O/D light flashing can be a representation of a misfire at or near a shift point in the trans without setting a DTC in the computer. Inspect for metallic flakes and smell the trans fluid the smell will tell you whether or not you have a burnt clutch pack. Ease up through the gears and see if it slips on a short drive, Pay attention on when it does it, what gear and conditions. Does it stall when you come to a stop, or under intial load until you reach a low torque condition. Signs of a torque converter going bad. If it slips consistently all the time I would start thinking about a rebuild. Hope this helps. Do these in the easiest steps for yourself. I work at a Ford dealer when I am in the states.
I bought a 98 Contour with 140,000 miles in great shape for $360 because of that light. It would skip 2nd gear and wouldn't go into 4th. The clutch band was broken. I picked up a transmission from the local pull-a-part for $88 and it works fine.
greasemonkey1489
Hard-core CEG'er
I had a jeep that did a very similar thing. The O/D light flashing was to give a code from the drivetrain control module. When it acted up, it wouldnt go into overdrive and at a stop it would stay stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear. The car would roll upon letting off the brake pedal but very slowly. I would have to manually throw it into 1st to get it to go. The problem was the governor pressure sensor, but it was intermittent.
Big indicator is no creeping when brake let off at idle. Signals slipping clutch pack or bad converter. Converter clutch has nothing to do with that. Won't get trash in oil to check, the magnet on these awesome. I had no metal in my oil but you should have seen the magnet. Any extra trash will end up in the big filter these have and not drain with the oil.
Somebody please tell me what a 'governor pressure sensor' is, the ENTIRE VALVEBODY is technically that.
Somebody please tell me what a 'governor pressure sensor' is, the ENTIRE VALVEBODY is technically that.
greasemonkey1489
Hard-core CEG'er
First, maybe learn some proper english before posting. It makes it hard to understand you when you talk like a hillbilly or a foriegner.
Next, a governor pressure sensor is just that, a sensor. It senses the oil pressure within part of the valve body to make sure the governor pressure solenoid is working properly. The valve body is not a sensor, but I'm certain I dont need to explain that, given the name. From my recent understanding, this G.P. sensor will probably not be found on this tranny.. it seems common to just the 42RE chrysler transmission.
Next, a governor pressure sensor is just that, a sensor. It senses the oil pressure within part of the valve body to make sure the governor pressure solenoid is working properly. The valve body is not a sensor, but I'm certain I dont need to explain that, given the name. From my recent understanding, this G.P. sensor will probably not be found on this tranny.. it seems common to just the 42RE chrysler transmission.
Check the definition of the word 'sensor', something that senses. Oldschool style valvebody cannot work without half its' task of sensing change before reacting to it. ENTIRE PART is sensor, regardless of whether one recognizes that or not, any sprung moveable valve in there is a sensor in the fullest sense of the word. Senses pressure changes and reacts accordingly.
The english can be 100% correct but still wrong if misapplied.
I asked because have never heard of the part before. No matter as all it takes is one engineer to change things up. I can assure you that this trans has no such part. EPC solenoid would have some of the duties of governor. It ramps up line pressure as directed by PCM for rpm and load changes.
The english can be 100% correct but still wrong if misapplied.
I asked because have never heard of the part before. No matter as all it takes is one engineer to change things up. I can assure you that this trans has no such part. EPC solenoid would have some of the duties of governor. It ramps up line pressure as directed by PCM for rpm and load changes.
andreslobo
Hard-core CEG'er
Given your description, I'd plug an oil pressure gage into the oil pump port in the drivers side wheel well and check for pressures. Sounds like something is amiss in the pressure system of the trans. Much more effective to troubleshoot than just replacing parts.
Best of luck
Best of luck
Yup. Sitting at idle the converter clutch is not being used and there is no governor moderated and/or added pressure applied either. Simple line pressure to make the clutch pack lock up enough to make car creep all that's required, meaning possible basic pressure problem. Do you get a good bump when shifting into reverse? Compare that to the bump you should get going from reverse into D.