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slight electrical problem

T

trhlz1222

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
919
Location
Holly Springs and Parish
ok well i got my switches (master switch and all the unlock/lock, and window) all back into the doors. the only problem is i blew one and two others didnt light up so i have to fix that. thats not what im worried about. the big problem is my master switch wont roll dont any of the windows on the right side of the car and neither unlock switches work now. i found that it was the fuse for the door locks. just curious on why it may have blown. also the fuse for the windows is fine. any idea?
 
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Ive got similar issues after putting LED switches in mine. Some of the window switches and lock switches are acting up. Which fuses did you pull for the window and locks i.e. what # and inside or outside fuse box?
 
not sure bout the windows fuse. i believe it is number 40 its orange on the inside box. i had to replace my door locks to because that one blew when i put them back in.i can check and let u know today.
 
ok well i didnt check the fuse but im pretty sure its number 40 an orange one for the windows and a 20 or 23 yellow for the locks. as for the windows not rolling down i solved that issue as well. if the fuse is not blown which mine wasnt they are ok. the master switch needs to be plugged in but all the window switches in the door also need to be plugged in in order for the window to go down. if one window switch isnt in the master switch cant roll that window down. if i confused you let me know and ill try to reword it easeir for you.
 
Well guys I figured mine out and I am willing to bet you that your issues may be stemming from the same thing.

On the switches that do work (excluding the master switch) such as the passenger side lock or window or the rear seat window switches. Pull one of the switches that do work. Look on the back of it and see how many metal "prongs" there are on it. Now pull the switch that is not working and count how many prongs on it.

Turns out my stock switches had one less prong on the back (#5 to be exact was missing, you have to look to see the #'s engraved in the plastic)and the switches that by blue LED's were soldered onto (I have 2 sets of complete switches) had a prong coming out of the #5 prong. So what I did was clipped off my blue LED from the switches (switches that had prong #5) and clipped off the green LED from my stock switches (switches that did not have prong #5) and then soldered the Blue LED to the stock switch that does not have the #5 prong.

Plugged everything back in and WALA all the switches work and all light up now.

So it seems there are differences on the switches and how they are made. I don't know if this will help anyone or just confused you guys more, I'm just glad I finally figured mine out and they all work!!!!
 
sorry if I confused you.

What I mean by the # of prongs is if you pull the switch from the wired socket and turn it over. The contact points/prongs will be visible.

To clear up any confusion ALL my switches are ford switches. Its just that the ones that came (which all worked and lit up perfect) w/ my car and lit up green do not have the prong #5 on the back (flip your switch over and you will see what I'm saying there are tiny #'s stamped into the plastic beside each prong).

The BLUE LED switches was a different set of switches from another persons Tour that had previously been re-wired w/ blue LED's. I tried just plugging these ones in in place of my stock green switches and I was having all sorts of issues. Some windows didn't work, some lock switches didn't work and both back seat window switches would not light up. It was a mess. So I compared my ORIGINAL green switches (which all lit up and worked perfectly fine) to the Blue LED switches to try to see what the difference was and that's when I noticed the different # of prongs on the back. So I figured if I just took the switches apart and removed the Blue LED on the one switch and put it in place of the stock green LED everything should work and it did.

Hope that clears it up a bit. If you simply are using you original switches and just put different color led's into them then they should work I don't know what could be causing the issue. I do know that if you don't have the master switch put together properly it can cause a lot of issues. Make sure you have this one working first and make sure the window lock slider switch is functioning properly and sliding correctly. If its not sliding and snapping in place correctly and making the normal "click" when it goes back and forth it is not put together properly. The master switch is a real PITA.
 
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