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SVT down

D.Acker

D.Acker

Owner/LUCA’s *****
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Apr 1, 2000
Messages
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Location
Waterman, IL
As the title states my SVT is down. 2K with lets say 60,000 (about 20 shy) mi. Anyway I was at SHOgoFast's (Adam) yesterday helping him with his car, went to leave turn the key one click and nothing else. So here's what's going on

Turn key, one click
Tried jump starting, no difference, still one click.
Lights dim
Will not turn over.
Can starts (quite easily) by pushing and popping the clutch
Tried the 3rd gear rock (to eliminate teeth on teeth between starter\flywheel)
Clutch switch seems to be working, since without the clutch pushed in you get nothing, pushed in the click.

Searched CEG found another thread very similar (same problem) pretty much everyone was saying the starter was the problem, but OP never posted back with solution.

Nearest auto store picked up a reman starter w\solenoid (all they had), installed, same problem. Roll started it, went home.

All grounds are clean and secure, battery is putting out 12.65V, everything seems to check out. Engine runs smooth, no funny sputters, idling, nothing out of place. Pulled in driveway at Adam's, shut her off, and that was that.

So what did we miss, if anything, all suggestions are welcome, I REALLY do not want to take this to a shop if at all possible. All fuses and relays dealing with ignition seem to be in good condition (no broken wires visible on fuses) pulled relay, click stopped.
 
Battery may say 12.65v, but what does it say when you are turning the car over? If the battery can't handle the load it could be your problem. Because once the car starts your running off of your battery.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Battery may say 12.65v, but what does it say when you are turning the car over? If the battery can't handle the load it could be your problem. Because once the car starts your running off of your battery.
Click to expand...

Turning over??? It won't, I guess we didn't check it after the car was started, but all you get when you turn the key is a single click. I don't think I can get the car rolling fast enough by myself to get it to start by popping the clutch with it in first to check battery while running.
 
Try pushing it backwards and popping the clutch into reverse.
You will probably stall it with 1st and cant get going fast enough for 2nd.
Reverse is typically geared somewhere between the 2.
 
Brent372 said:
Try pushing it backwards and popping the clutch into reverse.
You will probably stall it with 1st and cant get going fast enough for 2nd.
Reverse is typically geared somewhere between the 2.
Click to expand...

That's how we got it started last night and its currently backed in to the garage. Are you suggesting that to get it started to test the battery? If so, I have no problem going out and attempting it...
 
Brent372 said:
I wasn't the one saying that, it was somebody else...
Click to expand...

No I know you weren't the one who suggesting the battery test while turning over or running, I was just trying to get clarification on why the suggestion.

But you completely right, it's much easier to get them to start going backward and using Reverse vs forward and using 1st!

Not the first car I've had to "hillbilly" start, but I've always done it in 1st.
 
I would load test the battery to see what it does. possible that there is a bad cell in the battery so it can't fraw enough power to start the car.

I would also suggest trying to jump the starter. With something insulated try engaging the solenoid at the starter. that will either tell you its the starter or wiring/ignition etc.

also it isn't that hard to pop start it with first. I think I did it once over about 5 ft of space. just be ready to drop the clutch real fast to keep it from stalling and hit the gas at the same time to also help keep it from stalling.


there is a good bet it is the starter. I believe the same thing happened to shaggy at the all ford nationals the other year. went to leave and it just wouldn't start, or do anything. pop start and he was on his way home.
 
BrApple said:
I would load test the battery to see what it does. possible that there is a bad cell in the battery so it can't fraw enough power to start the car.

I would also suggest trying to jump the starter. With something insulated try engaging the solenoid at the starter. that will either tell you its the starter or wiring/ignition etc.

also it isn't that hard to pop start it with first. I think I did it once over about 5 ft of space. just be ready to drop the clutch real fast to keep it from stalling and hit the gas at the same time to also help keep it from stalling.


there is a good bet it is the starter. I believe the same thing happened to shaggy at the all ford nationals the other year. went to leave and it just wouldn't start, or do anything. pop start and he was on his way home.
Click to expand...

Which terminal do I have to hit on the starter to jump it, that I'm confused about. Also, what's the likely hood of a new starter be crap, I would think that would be minimal. I will see if I can get it started and test under load.
 
is the voltage the same at the battery and the big wire on the starter (possible voltage drop through the cable) without the car running
 
svtkev said:
is the voltage the same at the battery and the big wire on the starter (possible voltage drop through the cable) without the car running
Click to expand...

Yes, not so much as a .01 difference. Both are at 12.42 (yes that is a slight change from below, but I was playing around with all lights, stereo and HVAC on) just to see what that would do to the voltage...
 
and you have positive at the small terminal on the starter in the crank position? if so sounds like a starter to me
 
svtkev said:
and you have positive at the small terminal on the starter in the crank position? if so sounds like a starter to me
Click to expand...

I will need to check that. I really don't want to pull it again, starter has barely been in the car for 24 hrs...
 
dacker said:
Which terminal do I have to hit on the starter to jump it, that I'm confused about. Also, what's the likely hood of a new starter be crap, I would think that would be minimal. I will see if I can get it started and test under load.
Click to expand...


iirc its small bolt to the top large one. the small bolt on the back side is where the solenoid gets power.

kinda sounds like the solenoid went, then of course the starter will not engage.
 
my car did the same crap to me and it turned out to be the main ground to the trans case was junk. I used some new 4ga power cable I had from various audio installs and made a new one from the chassis to the trans and boom fired right up. i though t all mine were good but did it anyway and it worked.
 
just put a test light or volt-meter on the small terminal while someone cranks the ignition and see if you are getting voltage there , no need to pull the starter , double check grounds like icy said
 
svtkev said:
and you have positive at the small terminal on the starter in the crank position? if so sounds like a starter to me
Click to expand...


svtkev said:
just put a test light or volt-meter on the small terminal while someone cranks the ignition and see if you are getting voltage there , no need to pull the starter , double check grounds like icy said
Click to expand...

I was actually referring to the last sentence in the first post, better grab the wifey before goes to bed then...
 
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