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J

JesusFreak

Hard-core CEG'er
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Well, I am afraid that it will be time to either part out the SVT, or put a 3L in it as I am having some issues with the 2.5!

I would like to keep it, and do a 3L, but as I read all the information on the 3L, I get compeltely confused and lost. I want to use nitrous, on my setup as I never got to install it on the 2.5. I have alot of questions, and need alot of help!

1. What 3L setup is best when using nitrous?
2. What are all the parts that I need to do the swap?
2a. Part Numbers?
2b. Approx Prices?
3. What upgrades are going to be worth while?
3a. Part Numbers?
3b. Approx Prices?
3c. Part sources?

*When I talk about the part numbers, I am talking about everything associated with the engine swap. I am very nervous about doing this, and need to have a somewhat accurate budget before I can decide whether or not I want to continue the swap, or part the car out!

Anything else I should upgrade while I have the engine out. I have a flywheel, and was thinking about a clutch, and was thinking SPEC Stage 3+... anyone have a different suggestion?

I know that throughout this site, NECO, and the ARCHIVES, probably every question I just asked can be answered, but I am getting completely confused by it all, and really could use some help! Also, please don't post just to try and post for postings sake, this means way too much to me to get goofed up!! Thanks!!
 
there is a thread with all the part numbers sumwhere... im too dumb and stupid to look

the clutch is a great idea.

the parts list has how much they cost. one of the more knowledgable members should be able to find it. im in about the same boat as you. alot of perfect information on these sites but its all spread out everywhere

isnt the part list stickied on the top?
 
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yamaha racer 686 said:
there is a thread with all the part numbers sumwhere... im too dumb and stupid to look

the clutch is a great idea.

the parts list has how much they cost. one of the more knowledgable members should be able to find it. im in about the same boat as you. alot of perfect information on these sites but its all spread out everywhere

isnt the part list stickied on the top?
Click to expand...

Like you said, its all over the place, and I really would like to get everything that pertains to my buildup in one spot so that I don't make a costly mistake with it! There is tons of info here, and alot of part numbers and sources, but I don't even knwo where to begin, and which list i should be looking at, what parts on what list, etc etc etc
 
The stickies have all the info you need as far as parts. First, you need to decide what swap is best for you. As far as parts go...

Clevite Rod Bearings (upgrade)
Rod Bolts (These are TTY, so if you replace bearings which you should, you'll need to replace these as well)
Crank seal (rear)
Timing cover seals (Front crank/Left side/Right side/Middle)
Valve cover gaskets (includes spark plug gaskets)
Water Pump Cam Gasket (For the cam that turns the water pump belt)
LIM Gaskets
Head gaskets
Exhaust Gaskets
etc...

If you look at an expanded diagram of the engine, you can see where and what seals/gaskets you need. All the info is there in the stickies, and in the OLD FORUMS. Trust me, that's all I used to do my swap.

I'd also suggest contacting Terry Haines about your tranny if you havent upgraded that. A LSD is manditory.

Also, contact SVTCuervo for a good price on a spec clutch to handle the torque your going to be putting through the drivetrain...

As for part sources...
I bought most my parts between Bill Jenkins and through Rockauto. The prices differ with some items between the two.
 
Budget approx 900-1200 to do it yourself, more if you farm out the labor. You dont need much extra clutch for a 3L. I bet even a stocker or stage 2 would be fine even with nitrous. 3+ would be overkill IMHO.

There really isn't that much confusing stuff out there, dont let the volumes of discussions discourage you, they are just that, discussions.

Here is my suggestion, having done 1 swap.

Easiest way to go.

01+ 3L from taurus or sable VIN S (cannot use the vulcan engine), (escape works, but seem to be more expensive)
Port the 3L heads to use the 2.5 intake manifolds. Do not plan to use a dremel to port the heads. Must be pneumatic or equivalent.

I actually did mine without removing the heads. I was very diligent to make sure the intake ports were completly plugged so as to block all aluminum dust from entering the cyliders. I even rotated the motor on the engine stand and did the porting with the motor almost upside down.

The above method allows you to use the stock fuel rail, no brazing required.

Buy the Bugzuki intake plates instead of dealing with JB weld.

Anything you disturb replace its gasket/seal. Heads, valve covers, intake manifolds, timing cover, etc. A nice list is available in the sticky. If you spend an hour to FULLY think through what you are actually disassembling vs just removeing this becomes easier. I surprised myself when I actually thought the whole process through, not really taking that much apart, just new seals and gaskets that are all pretty easy.

Pictures can be found of where to grind the block for the alternator bracket to fit and oil cooler lines to fit. Its easy, especially with an pneumatic cutoff wheel.

New rod bearings, clevite 77 and new rod bolts.

You already have headers, not too much else to bolt on after that if you stay N/A.

Consider new timing chains and guides if you use the svt cams and the guides/chains are high mileage.

Most importantly, to complete a quality swap you must give yourself ample time. I think many get caught up in trying to get the whole thing done in 1-2 weekends. Sure, this can be done with proper tools and knowhow, but very unreasonable for a first time around. You just have to plan for the unexpected. Hell, I couldn't get the damn waterpump pully off of the camshaft!!

That being said, a couple of good gear pullers are required, can be rented or bought and returned once used, gently of course. LOL.

I did make a short how-to with part numbers in excel. PM me with your e-mail address and I can send it to you.

At the end of it all, I say if you've got the time to do the swap then you will be able to complete it and be satisfied. If you try to cram it a couple of weekends to get the car back on the road asap you risk being very frustrated and may do less quality work.

-End
 
but that is going to be true for any engine you pic up. having a basically new engine cold be worth the price if you just want an dengine to show and and basically drop in ...
 
Yeah, and I'm not going to pay 2300 bucks for an engine, I'd part the car if it came to that!
 
Blackcoog said:
Start parting as doing it your self isn't exactly cheap. :rolleyes:
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Sure can be, found engines for as little as 650, and have a mechanic to help me modify and install for little to nothing, so it wont be anywhere near 2300 bucks! I'm not taking anything away from your business, I jsut know that with the knowhow I have in my mechanic, I can accomplish it much cheaper then jsut buying one from you!
 
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That's good to hear. Most don't have a mechanic that works for free. Who's porting your heads out or are you using 3L intakes? Are you having the old injector spots welded or are going to try JB weld? Or are you going to look into Burrita's LIM mod for $425? If you use 3L intakes are you making your own fuel rail and custom EGR or is your mechanic? Just make sure you know what you need to do before you get in way too deep.
 
Blackcoog said:
That's good to hear. Most don't have a mechanic that works for free. Who's porting your heads out or are you using 3L intakes? Are you having the old injector spots welded or are going to try JB weld? Or are you going to look into Burrita's LIM mod for $425? If you use 3L intakes are you making your own fuel rail and custom EGR or is your mechanic? Just make sure you know what you need to do before you get in way too deep.
Click to expand...


Going to use Burrita's LIM!
 
BigBEN said:
You can do Better. People around me have found them for as low as 350 or 400. I would say to not pay any more than 500 for a used 3L
Click to expand...

Feel free to help me find one, LOL! Down here in florida, they appear to be a tad bit harder to come by... cheapest ive found is 500...
 
HolyRollerzC3 said:
Feel free to help me find one, LOL! Down here in florida, they appear to be a tad bit harder to come by... cheapest ive found is 500...
Click to expand...

500 is not too bad though. now, do you plan on doing a full 3L? or a 3L swap with SVT intake manifolds? If you plan to do a full 3L swap, then you can make some cash selling the SVT intakes.
 
BigBEN said:
500 is not too bad though. now, do you plan on doing a full 3L? or a 3L swap with SVT intake manifolds? If you plan to do a full 3L swap, then you can make some cash selling the SVT intakes.
Click to expand...

I plan on using the SVT UIM, and gettting the LIM mod from nautilus! Everything else 3L. This is what i gather to be the best setup if someone is going to use some nitrous, correct?
 
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