Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Difficulty level to install rotors/pads?

OK, I'm most likely going to grab up the KVR cross-drilled or grooved rotors along with the KVR pads. I'll only do the fronts this time around. Question is, how difficult is doing the work myself and what list of tools would I need? Is there a good shop manual that I can get my hands on that gives me a step by step? I don't have air tools right now but a buddy of mine does so I'll probably use his.

If you have never done it before, it will be somewhat challenging. The Hayes manual is alright as a guide.

Necessary tools, I would get a long say 17" or 19" flex handle (to accept 1/2" sockets) to give you the necessary leverage. A good socket set (I can't remember off hand but I think its either a 13mm or a 15mm that you will need), a flat scraper, hydralic jack and stands for safetly, and patience. A second set of hands sometimes helps out when trying to but that spring clip back over the caliper to hold the pads down. There is more but thats all I can think off right now off the top of my head....I can email you directions if you need them.

Dude, any directions would be MUCH appreciated. Email me at cjbaldw@yahoo.com if you could be so kind. Thanks in advance...

It's a 15mm. I wouldn't use sockets or air tools; instead use a 15mm box-end wrench. Loosen the bolt by hitting the wrench with a hammer right below the head (on the wood); make sure the wrench doesn't slip off. You might scar the handle some but oh well.

You'll need big channel-lock pliers or a c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. A large-ish screwdriver will be needed to initally loosen the pad from the rotor. I'm pretty sure these are the only tools I used to remove my caliper. It took me about 15 minutes after getting the wheel off.

Oh the official torque specs for the caliper bolts (2) is 92 ft-lbs if you're keeping track.

Don't forget the 7mm Hex Bit. Without that, you won't be able to take the guidepins out. You'll also need a pair of piler to pull the spring out. Maybe you should also spray the bolts with PB Blaster first because they're probably seized, and use anti-seize on them before putting them back on. I took them out a few times by myself, should take more than 30 minutes to swap both side. You also don't need a piston clamp, I just used a big adjustable wrench and the old pads to push it back.

fyi you don't need the hex bit if the caliper is taken off, the slide pins clear the bushings after the pads are off. Also, some slide pins are torx, that's why I didn't mention them. Oh have some hub grease handy (lithium grease will also do) to lube the slide pins and pad contact points.

I thought only the rear pins use torex... BTW, I'd tend to think that caliper grease is a better stuff to use on the guide pins.

I had Torx on my front brakes(98 non-SVT)when I upgraded to larger rotors. Now they're the 7mm hex. It seems to be completely random as far as what cars got what. I know, I know...Ford? Random brake specifications? Sounds immpossible! :rolleyes:

--- From the 2000 Factory Service CD---

Brake Disc


Removal

1. Loosen the wheel nuts.

2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

3. Remove the wheel.

4. CAUTION:
Secure the caliper and anchor plate assembly out of the way to prevent damage to the flexible brake hose.

Detach the brake caliper and anchor plate. (2 Bolts)

5. Remove the brake disc.

6. Remove the retainers (if equipped).


Installation

µ 1. Install the brake disc.

µ 2. Install the caliper and anchor bracket. (120NM) {89ft/lb}

µ 3. Install the wheel.