Centerforce bites, don't get one.
The OEM SVT clutch is made by LUK (my '98 SVT's was anyway)
and they are a great clutch over all and wouldn't be a bad idea at all. IIRC, you're in Utah......PM me for a great local source (about $200 for a complete clutch kit).
But SPEC clutches are probably the best idea. They are the ONLY clutch producer that actually has an other than OEM style pressure plate. All others claim to have "better" PP, but they slap a coat of paint and a sticker on a completely OEM pressure plate and that's the extent of their improvements.
Stage I is more than enough unless you're running n2o or forced induction. Steel backed organic material holds more than kevlar, resist heat way better than kevlar and resists bursting or tearing. (SCC's Silva project is using a steel backed organic lined clutch )
I would avoid stage II mainly because it's kevlar. Kevlar holds the same or less than organic material clutches. Kevlar glazes over and no longer bites at all when it comes into contact with any oil product. Kevlar is mainly used by tractors and semi-trucks because they don't eat at the flywheel, making it more economical when changing the clutch out because you most likely won't need to machine your flywheel.
If you are going FI or n2o, stage III is a great option. But if you aren't heavily mod'd, it's a waist of money and you're going the overkill route. It's made to handle more power, not last longer with a lesser setup. You will only GAIN harshness with this clutch. If you can avoid stage III (no FI/n2o) you should.
Flywheel wise, you can reuse your SVT flywheel after machining it. If you want a light FW, Fidanza or the SPEC would be the best option. If you're going with a SPEC clutch, it may be best to use the flywheel from the same company.
