Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance Ok I decided to get the Vortech what else will I need to do the job

Yes my 2000 GT had returnless fuel lines and it was a vortech kit all you needed was bigger injectors and custom chip worked great as reliable as stock. How do I know if I have returnless fuel lines anyway? I have a 99 SVT did they have them yet? I would like to get a bigger in tank pump aswell, are there any available for our car? I was planning on doing a custom chip burnt on a dyno anyways for the supercharger those are always the best. Wonder what size injectors I should use? maybe 24lb

You're on the right track Trevor. You must remove the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the filter and replace the longer SVT filter mounting stud with the standard Duratec filter mounting stud. The filters are the same, but with the sandwich plate in there the filter will not clear the Vortech spec MSDS headers.

can you get those msds headers or whatever they are called without the ypipe and use the sho shop y pipe or what ypipe is better anyways? Witht he Bassani Exhaust

Use the MSDS Y-pipe withe the MSDS headers! Tuned set. Made to work together... Retains factory mounting location and doesn't void header warranty.

Does that work good with the Bassani cat back?

I just got done doing the MSDS headers bolted to the SHO y-pipe. Really thinking about bolting up the MSDS headers though. Right now the car f-ing hauls but the rasp and noise have to go soon. No problems to report with the setup but yeah that warranty voiding does stink. BTW I do have the Bassani on the car as well.

Hope it helps a little.

I had talked to knu concepts about his s/c set up. The blower can be run on a returnless system but it needs a custom chip(which I am ordering the software for) and it will work well.

Here is my $0.02

While I do know it is physically possible to make the returnless fuel setup work w/ a S/C, given the current availability of people doing custom dyno-tuning on contours, it will be much more difficult to get it done (even with the Mustang and its large aftermarket community, had a lot of trouble getting stuff to work when the 99 came out with returnless, it took nearly a year for Vortech to get something that really worked)
So check your fuel system, and know what you are getting into (unfortunately, I don't remember the really easy way to tell off the top of my head, but I'm sure someone will chime in with it)

Some other things to think about
1. Intercooler. if you can figure out a way to get one in there as you are putting in the S/C, you will be way ahead of the game, as the vortech setup is in dire need of an intercooler (ask anyone running the vortech about the heatsoak! WorldTour is even experimenting with a temporary water/alcohol injection system until he can make an IC fit)

2. Exhaust. Personally, I would suggest a custom, true dual exhaust over the borla and a y-pipe. A true dual exhaust, done properly, should yield better gains, including low-end torque (ask Terry Haines about this) There are other factors though that would affect this decision, like if there is a good custom exhaust shop, or if emissions laws won't let you alter stuff etc.

2a. Headers. If you can do them, go for it. I would call MSDS and ask them about fitment of the S/C spec headers in an SVT. Heck they make them, who would know better, right? (ok, ok, I would trust bnoon's opinion on something like this :D)

3. Quiafe. If you got the money, by all means, but though it is quite desirable to have one, it is not a 100% necessity like some will tell you. Another thing to consider, is that Torsen may or may not be selling their unit (which I would much prefer over the quiafe) by the time you start buying parts, so don't forget about it.

4. Additional Engine work. If you are going to be pulling things apart, now might not be a bad time to consider additional work, ie p&p heads, 3L valves in the SVT heads, etc. etc. It all depends on your timing and budget, and availability of a good shop. Also, now might be the time to think about solutions to combat non-S/C specific issues with the duratech (ie engine oiling, a baffled oil pan, and an accu-sump type oil reservior would provide some peice of mind)

When you go to actually do the work, and as you get parts, etc. be sure to use those "in the know" on this board. Terry Haines is the man to go to for anything like this, his credentials are about as good as you could hope for in this group, and he is a great guy to boot. Worldtour is a good source as well, he has the vortech on his car, and is more than likely making more power out of it currently than pretty much anyone else. bnoon is also a good contact, though he had other problems with his motor that necessitated removing the vortech from his car (poor Silvie :D)

I have assisted Worldtour in a few "troubleshooting" sessions w/ his car, and I do have a degree in mechanical engineering, and I currently work in the auto industry (my ties there kinda make me wonder what happened to your Mustang hope all was ok with it) I would be more than happy to help you as well. All that said, Terry Haines and his company are probably going to be the best help you will ever get for a Contour of any sort.

The problem with the returnless fuel system realy isnt that big a problem. the solution is very simple actualy. Remove the system and replace it with a normaly regulated system. I've done this on a buddies PT Cruiser that I turbocharged. You replace the fuel pump with a hi volume unit,the fuel rail then install a AFPR and add the return line.

Things to consider with the headers & moving the oil filter or removing the stock oil cooler.

If you remove the stock filter or relocate the filter, make sure an aftermarket cooler is used, DO NOT run without an oil cooler! Terry has talked about many horror stories on this matter that took place during the car's development.

Another thing is cooler size, this would mainly concern people living in colder climates (such as myself) where the oil will get really cold. If the oil can't get heated rather quickly then engine damage can occur. Granted I feel a good synthetic could combat that, but it is better to be safe...

One suggestion I would make is upgrade your roll restrictors & engine mounts, at first i didn't think that highly about it... $1000 worth of front end work later I saw the errors of my original thinking.
-Mark