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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
It's not "all that money" though.

If he shelled his engine it could be replaced for under $700 including gaskets & rod bearings. Some folks are finding them for much cheaper then that too...


Sure beats spending 30k for a FWD dyno queen.


Hell he just spent that on a-whole-nother car.




Ditto! What he said.


Basically if I blow it I'll drive my Volvo S40 while I build another motor.

I have enough confidence in the stock parts to try pushing towards the 400 wHP mark. Hell, I'm ALREADY at about 330 ft-lbs of torque!!!! Do you understand the significance of that?
If I just hold that same level of torque up to 6500 rpm I'll be pulling OVER 400 wHP!

What better test do you want?
If I pull 350 ft-lbs, definitely doable, and then hold it till 6200 rpm then it will be like 412 wHP.

So the evidence is pointing in my favor as it is.
Would I like forged pistons? Yes.
Can I afford it? Yes, with some squeezing and much whining!
BUT, my curiosity is a bit more powerful and I'm willing to risk grenading the motor to find out a little more. Hell, I was the first that I know of to post a 300 wHP dyno, the first to take the stock rods past that point and currently hold the "stock" bottom end records.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
Hmm, this dyno queen has put up the challenge for you to come up here and settle it on the track as I'm hosting a meet in August. Who's afraid of the itty bitty vortech




PShhh....Not ME!
In current tune we both have similar power right? However, I own your azz in torque. ( that could be the downfall because of traction though)


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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August 16th is a Tuesday???

Are you sure about that date?


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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What, you got something against racing on a Tuesday? How about Saturday, August 13 instead?

Rick


Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L parts for sale
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Back on subject gentlemen ...

I found a part was listed incorrectly and I have ordered the correct bolts and returned the incorrect bolts. So, please disregard my previous post and instead, use the numbers & quantities from below.

One thing to note ... the non TTY bolts in question throughout this thread are $5.08 each, so I would highly recommend that they be reused if you feel safe doing so!!

Warning to those that need to order these bolts/studs for a machine shop visit ... they are very costly for bolts/studs. I decided to replace ALL the bolts in the girdle (including non-TTY) to be on the safe side.Cost (25% off list price) & part numbers:

Studs/Bolts
Qty 4 YL8Z-6345-AA = $4.97 each (9-10-11-12 in diagram)
Qty 4 YL8Z-6345-BA = $5.87 each (5-6-7-8 in diagram)
Qty 4 F5RZ-6345-D = $3.57 each (13-14-15-16 in diagram)
Qty 5 F5RZ-6345-C = $2.57 each (1-2-3-4-17 in diagram)
Qty 5 F5RZ-6345-E = $5.08 each (18-19-20-21-22 in diagram) - sold in package of 2

Nuts (hold windage tray/oil pickup tube in place)
If you have an 01+ block already, these nuts can be reused!
Qty 4 W701542S309 = $5.05 each - (sold in packs of 6)
Qty 4 W701582S309 = $1.13 each

You do the math ... expensive proposition to replace the main crank bearings.

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