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have you reset the computer after changing all of those items?

also when you talk about a stumble off idle that sounds like the plug wires, as this it what happened to me once. we thought it could have been the tps sensor also. my car was stumbling and chugging off idle to near 3 to 4k rpm. could be a bad wire or spark plug.

I would say if you have your old wires try swapping one out at a time to see if that will do anything.


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I put brand new wires on that I know for a fact were good as they were tested on another vehicle.


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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by mbb41:
Originally posted by Tony2005:

Hmm.... shoudn't that be "unplug it and if there is no difference in the performance, that component is the problem"?




Why would that be the case for certian? I assume by doing this you have the car go into limp mode for the missing sensor. Therefore it will run @ default trim. If that is the case then the car should run better then with a sensor that is running right intermitently no?



Wouldn't it already be running in a limp mode if the component was the problem? So if you remove the component, it shouldn't make any difference whereas if it wasn't in a limp mode for that component, it would now, if you unplug it. Maybe someone else with more experience with the mechanics of the PCM could clarify this.




Anytime the PCM's expected values from any sensor (maf, TPS, o2, etc) are above or below a maximum range, it will use a failsafe table of values instead of relying on that sensor.

If the removed problem sensor is already operating beyond its ranges, then the car would be relying on those tables already... Of course... it would usually throw a CEL light/code as well..


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Well I pulled the wire off the sensor and heres the results.

The car never threw a CEL. The problem however remained and infact was more pronounced. Basically this actioned intensified the problem. However the stumbling issue when reving lightly in neutral went away. I assume because the mixture was richened up. Cost for a new TPS is $33 so I'm inclinded to change it anyways. I am however confused as wether this is the ultimate problem or not. Given the problem didn't go away with the sensor detached and the computer restarted. More odd to me that no codes were throwen.


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test the tps with koeo.

4.7v(i THINK.. it's early) at WOT

around 1 volt at idle.
look for smooth transitions, as well, while revving via the TB.


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When was the last time you checked/changed the timing belt?

Did you try un-plugging the MAF?? If you replaced the maf recently, it could end up being a wiring issue.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Well the timing belt is about 75000 miles so it could be done I'm sure. I had the same thought but unless it is slipping or something and then going right back to the right spot I'm not sure that it could be it. As far as it being a wiring issue I realy hope that is not it. The E-test I had passed with flying colours. Nothing really stood out.


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That's right, you said it runs ok on cold startup....

That leave un-plugging the MAF for now. An easy & free test.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Well I will give that another shot I suppose. I have swapped a maf before and it seemed to make no difference.


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"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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