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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by JonnySVT: i hope you guys are just yankin on my pickle,
Nope, don't swing like that.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 706
Veteran CEG\'er
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lol
Can anyone let me in on what Stazi's breaks are excatly? Are they pads or a whole kit?
Last edited by e1flakedsvt; 09/10/03 11:42 PM.
"God Got a Good One"
1982-2004
I love you JLM!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
They are just a good price on Bendix Titanium pads with Autospecialty rotors. You should be able to get them anywhere Bendix is sold at a higher price. Notice the post at the top of this forum?
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732 |
i got napa pads and they totally suck !!!
my breaking is horrendous, they even caused me to have a small fender bender cause they are super horrible.
dont buy cheap pads and learn the hard way like i did!
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,779
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OP
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ok, unfortunately, it looks like i have no choice: credit card, here i come....
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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If you're not metal-to-metal just yet, just replace the pads and not touch the rotors. That's your cheapest option and is safer than worn pads. [Rara is prolly having a coronary right now!] It is a compromise, however, and you should drive accordingly. As soon as money is available, buy Stazi's kit.
[Edit: Before I'm completely flamed for the above advice, I read this thread as a dire situation where the pads are within a couple of stop signs of being toast and there is like $40 in the cupboard. We've probably all been there and just needed a solution to just keep the wheels turning.]
Last edited by bigMoneyRacing; 09/11/03 04:41 PM.
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Posts: 717
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Originally posted by JonnySVT: WTF? what are you guys talking about? all i was asking is how much i was looking at if i bought cheap or near stock pads and rotors or what else i need. what is so hard to understand about not having money? i barely have extra money, so i need to get a cheap set of brakes to last me until i can save up some money. i am in a little ditch moneywise, but not for long and i neeeeed brakes. i know it is not a place to skimp on. i wish i didn't have to, but that's how life works. i don't encounter traffic where there is wild drivers and i need to slam on the brakes. i'm usually taking back roads to work 5 days a week and i rarely go long distances on the freeway. i put like 800 miles a month on my car. why is it so hard to understand that i don't encounter much traffic? i hope you guys are just yankin on my pickle, because so far i haven't had a straight answer.
not trying to bust on you, I gave appropriate advice further up the post. It's just that your thinking is way wrong when it comes to "not encountering much traffic, don't need brakes much" philosophy in this situation. What happens if you have a blow-out? Yeah, it's rough not having much money, but I also noticed you've got some fairly pricey mods on your car. The safest car is the one you can control the best. You can't control a car with marginal brakes, bad tires or worn struts. This is not only for your benefit but for the others reading these posts.
contours, deloreans & fiats, oh my!
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Joined: Apr 2003
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the fairly pricey mods on my car is my last car's ashes. I sold my Nova when I got the SVT and the money from that went to rims, tires, exhaust, intake, suspension, and gone . I make enough money to basically pay my bills and sometimes eat. I know I need a new job so I can get out of this whole thing. I'm in school, so I can't exactly get a 9-5 yet and I will probably have to work graveyard shifts. Last time I did that, I flunked my classes because I was sleeping during class. The benefit of more money is kind of thrown off by wasting 1,000 a quarter for flunked classes. So I'm just in a pickle for about one more year. Thanx for the advice everyone, I just hate spending money I don't have (credit card)and I was looking for an easier way out. I appreciate everybody's help, even the ones I got offended by.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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If you're so short on cash why did you buy a MSDS y-pipe and are now looking to buy an Apex-i? FWIW, people here don't appreciate b.s., at least I don't. So eager for performance mods, so reluctant to do maintenance
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 314
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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JonnySVT-
The straight scoop is that you want pads like Bendix Titanium Metallic's. They're roughly $50, call around to a few auto parts stores.
If you look at your brake rotors, do they appear smoothe and flat or do they have grooves in them? If grooved, you'll need a resurfacing at the least, maybe new ones if they're too thin to cut on a lathe. Certain auto parts stores also "turn" rotors. $15-ish.
Do you need fronts or backs?
Get some help in identifying what you need (pads and/or rotors) and where (front and/or back) and then it's easier to tell you exactly where to get your best deal.
Brian 99 SVT
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