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Joined: Oct 2000
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Originally posted by ScottK:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by todras:
Purolater Pure One for me.
Which means you are payings twice as much for the stock Motorcraft FL-820S.
Since it's a Pure one cartridge with synthetic drainback valve (the S) in a Premium casing.
The Motorcraft is definitely then number 2 choice. $3-4 for an excellent filter.
The only drawback is just like every other filter on the market sans one. It's only tested to 3GPM when our oil pump surpasses 10GPM at 5500rpm (think about 6k, 7k, 8k etc  ) That's a heck of a lot of potential oil being forced through the small bypass valve. (unfiltered and superheated!)
Also with an oiling system as efficient as ours that 3GPM is likely in the 3000 rpm range. Maybe lower; Yikes 
I run a K&N and it has given me the best oil analysis results.
Hey Demon - I was surprised at how good the motorcraft really was from the last thread! Do you know - is the following chart correct?
If so it appears the motorcraft / pure one cartridge not only filters well, but has great flow capability too.
Well, Scott's graph confirms my Mobile 1 filter choice. Couple that flow rate with the best filtration efficiency, greatest capacity, and highest burst strength of the bunch, and you have a winner.
BTW, the K&N flows even better, but at a small sacrifice in filtering efficiency. So, it doesn't filter quite as well, but it's filtering more of the time (less time in bypass.) Also has lower burst strength than the M 1, but still very good. It's kind of a toss up, depending on what you care to emphasize.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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The K&N HP-2010 filter flows 14GPM (fact) and is "estimated" in the middle 90's for filter efficiency. The Pure One/Motorcraft is rated at 98% efficiency and the K&N did better in my back to back oil analysis testing. (remember I am hard on my engine all the time) I surmise the better flowing K&N filter bypasses less oil and therefore is less harsh on the oil (and subsequently the engine too!) and filters all the oil all the time instead of just a high percentage of it. On the subject of oil analysis... I am getting close to my next oil time change interval. I am eagerly anticipating the results from the analysis as this will be the first sample using an 8k redline the entire time. I already have some ideas as to what levels are going to show being high. (hopefully not TIN   ) I have come to believe the stock rings don't like going past 7500rpm. (numerous indications) If that assumption is correct then non-SVT engines (I.E. using non-upgraded rings) should stay well below that point. Also I would strongly recommend upgraded rings (I.E. Total Seal) for any engine build!
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Not my chart - just copied the link  Doesn't the chart read that Mobil one never gets above 3 1/4 GPM flowed at 50psi, making it the second worst flowing filter there? (I am color blind - but I think that's the way it is???) The pure one (motorcraft) is flowing 8 GPM at the same pressure.
97 Contour SE MTX
K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust
04 Grand Caravan SXT
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Newbie
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I read an analysis of many different oil filters by an engineer who literally tore each one apart and measured stuff like how long the element was when removed from the can, how small a particle would pass thru, the materials used in construction for the filter, can, valves, etc. His results surprised me. I had been using Fram for years, and that was the worst on his list. The best for the money?
1. AC Delco
2 Puolator and Pure One
3-? the rest.
A lot of his ratings had to do with the ability of oil to be removed from the filter when the engine was not running, causing effectively a dry start til the filter was refilled.
My Mazda MX6 is prone to noisy lifters, and definitely quieted down after switching from Fram to Purolator. Hope this helps.
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Originally posted by ScottK:
Not my chart - just copied the link
Doesn't the chart read that Mobil one never gets above 3 1/4 GPM flowed at 50psi, making it the second worst flowing filter there?
(I am color blind - but I think that's the way it is???)
The pure one (motorcraft) is flowing 8 GPM at the same pressure.
Woops. Read it wrong. Thought it was measuring pressure drop across the filter, in which case lower is better. Maybe time for a switch to K&N?
I'm wondering if Demon has compared oil analyses of the Mobil 1 with the K&N?
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The K&N HP-2010 filter flows 14GPM (fact) and is "estimated" in the middle 90's for filter efficiency.
My memory is foggy, but I think the Mobil 1 is around 99% efficient in the 10-15 micron range, but of course, flow isn't as good. I thought it was around 8-10 gpm, though, not the 3.5 or whatever from the chart. Capacity was also very high, and burst strength was 550 psi. Call Champion Labs to be sure. They make both the K&N and the Mobil 1 filters. I called them once, but it's been a while, so I won't swear by these numbers.
I suppose with as much as I rev the engine, I should switch to K&N.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Again I say that they (motorcraf filters) are not "bad" but that there might be better filters for the SVT due to the increased oil presure resulting from the increased rpm's to reach higher engine power. When pump rpm's (engine is a pump) are increased the oil flows faster within the engine, thus increasing the oil pressure. It must. Another example, take the non SVT and SVT and see where are the rpm's for a given gear and you will see that SVT are higher for a given gear. And as for the redline. Well let me say this, some time a go I had a MB 190, with a 90 HP engine. The max power was on 5100 rpm's, while the redline started at 6000. So redline is just the place where one should not bring it's engine (hence the rev limiter) not allways where the max power is. It is Itallian cars that are mostly redline/max power. So to answer your question if you are driving an non SVT and are regularily taking it past it peak power rpm;s all the way to the redline, you are just wasting fuel, engine and time because nothing happens there except your bills increase. Besides, uprated engines require uprated parts. Filters are just some of those.
airman1
Black '95 Mondeo
V6Si
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SVT and regular contour have the same gearing - hence rpm vs speed is the same. SVT redline may be a couple hundred rpms higher before full fuel shut off - but more or less the same there too (unless you're Demon )
97 Contour SE MTX
K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust
04 Grand Caravan SXT
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Scourge of the Master Debaters
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Perhaps he was referring to ATX vs. MTX. My Sport (ATX) revs slower at 80mph than my SVT.
Beer is my Gatorade.
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'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
'98 E0 SVT Silver Frost
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