Ok All, Here??s where I??m at. And let me say, I??m about ready to jerk this thing out and just tear it down. I would have already except that the darn thing passes the line pressure tests with flying colors and the rare times it does get into 3rd and 4th gear, it??s solid as a rock. That makes me believe the bands, drums, and pump are in good shape. Let me recap what I??ve done:

>Pulled the valve body, stripped down completely, carefully installed the Transgo SK CD4E Jr kit. Very slightly honed each accumulator bore, checked pistons by hand and found that honing definitely reduced friction in each. (I only polished, I??m sure I didn??t enlarge the bores to the point of causing excessive bypass)
>Replaced the TR (Transmission Range) sensor, (checked old and new, both passed resistance check)

>O-scoped both VSS and TSS signals while driving. Both outputs produce nice high amplitude waveforms and are comparable to what any hall effect sensor is supposed to produce.

>Pulled the solenoid pack again, tore down, carefully cleaned/reassembled. (I checked each solenoid for operation while disassembled and after assembly, all worked as designed. Also checked temperature sensor (thermistor) reads about 30K ohms at room temp and drops to below 5K rapidly with hair dryer blowing on it.) I also had a ??96 model solenoid pack for comparisons while doing this, it checks out the same other that a redesign of the electrical harness connector.

> I have Alex Peper??s TRICAN OBD II enhanced code reader (I love it!) but the only codes I get from this Mystique are ??3rd gear wrong ratio? and ??4th gear wrong ratio? kinda makes you want to scream DUH!!!!!

> I still have 5 LED??s hooked up to the harness at the top of transaxle connector monitoring the ECM commands to the 5 solenoids. All signals agree with Ford??s shift tables at all speeds/driving conditions. (I just can??t get 3rd gear when it??s commanded, nor 4th)

I??m asking for advise here, and I also want to specify a couple of questions:

1) Is there a way to hook up to a port with the valve body off and manually actuate/leak check the 3rd gear band actuator?
2) Is there information available that tells what function each spool piece in the valve body does so I can disassemble again and maybe check for wear specifically on those spools?
3) Does the zeetec motor have a rev limiter when in Park or Neutral? Because when I rev up in N or P, it hits 4000 RPM and bounces there at 3800 to 4000 as if electronically limited.

Thanks for reading and for any advise/answers you can offer.
Greg




Bought a 98 Contour SVT off ebay for $430.00 (missing: all lower body panels, entire exhaust, wheels,and headlights) Going through the pains of getting it on the road for my son this spring (2006).