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Accusump Oil Accumulator

fred22

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
228
Location
England/Texas
hello guys ive seen on the batinc.net site that they are selling an oil accumulator for our duratec v6, so what i wanted to know has anyone brought one of these or something simular and is it A) easy to fit and B)worth buying one? Any info appreciated thanks :)

heres the info from the site :

Accusump Oil Accumulator​
There have been some cases of Duratec V6 engine bearings being
burned up due to lack of oil pressure during hard cornering. We
can not confirm that this problem will effect all engines, but
we can recommend the best prevention. The most
effective way to protect wet sump engines from lack of
oil pressure situations is to fit a Accusump oil
accumulator. The Accusump remotely stores a volume
of oil (in this case 1 quart) under pressure to supplement
the engines oil system during maneuvers that cause fluctuations
in oil pressure such as hard cornering, braking and acceleration.. If
the engines oil sump pick-up becomes uncovered the Accusump
will discharge (for up to 20 seconds) supplying oil pressure until the
oil supply to the pump is returned. Discharged oil is returned to the
Accusump when normal oil pressure resumes. An added benefit is the unit
also pre-oils the engine by supplying oil pressure before start-up. Accusump
mounts remotely in the engine bay and is electrically controlled with a solenoid valve wired to the
ignition switch.
This supplies oil through hose to the oil filter location to an adaptor mounted between the block and the filter. This
is the oil input to the engine on non oil cooler equipped cars (pictured). For oil cooler equipped cars (most SVT's)
we can supply components to run the oil supply directly to one of the engine block oil galleys.​
Accusump Kit $379.00​
includes 1 quart cylinder (size12" x 3 1/4"), electric valve, hose- 6' length Aeroquip FC333, Aeroquip fittings​
(1) straight (1) 90 degree, Mocal sandwich adaptor and fittings.
 
that's only a couple hundred bucks short of a 3L swap..... then you wouldn't need it. it could save your 2.5 if your' into spending money to keep it alive.... but thats the price of a scrapyard engine with low mileage.
 
ive brought a 2003 oil pan that is meant to be better than the stock v6 ones, what else would i need to make it as good as the one in the 3L ? I appreciate what your saying about buying another one from the scrapyard, but ive torn down a v6 engine and replaced alot of things like diamond racing pistons bearings and bolts headgaskets svt heads and cams, so i dont want to get rid of this engine or then its like ive wasted alot of money on nothing if this makes sense, would this be a good kit on my car, ive just brought a turbo kit from joey and its bein made and sent to me, my engine is built ready for the headers comming from joey to get bolted on and then its gonna be the swap, just wanna see if its worth doing this to my v6 while its still out here if this makes sense, any info appreciated again thanks buddy :)
 
if your running 2.5 heads, run the accusump. it'll be worthwhile. the updated oil pan helps keep the oil from sloshing in hard corners too.
 
yeah im gonna run the svt heads and cams with my set up, ive oiled everything before fitting it back onto my block, this accusump i take it will draw the oil from the oil cooler is this correct, i think im gonna buy one, i dont wanna mess this engine up, i like how u say the new updated oil pan keeps the oil from sloshing in hard corners, now when my friends ask what it does ill know what to tell them, it was one of the things i looked into buying for this engine that i built up in my garage, as said i might get one of these so that i can have like a safety net so that it helps protect my engine, does anyone know how to install this, i wanna do this while my engine is out in my garage before i fit the turbo kit and fit it into the car, any info appreciated thanks :)
 
that's only a couple hundred bucks short of a 3L swap..... then you wouldn't need it. it could save your 2.5 if your' into spending money to keep it alive.... but thats the price of a scrapyard engine with low mileage.

No, thats the price of the motor, if you get a good deal. You need to stop leading people to believe that it only costs a couple hundred bucks to swap in a 3 liter. Its still more expensive then just a motor, and involves a decent amount of labor!
 
plus here in england they dont have many 3.0 duratec engines to buy, id have to have one sent over from america and that would cost an arm and a leg i think, but buying these diamond racing pistons i would end up losing them as they would be too small for the 3 liter block, i might do this in the future but for now ive spend a lot of time and money doing my research on this engine to upgrade it so that i can run this turbo kit good and without worrying will the stock head gaskets go on me, cant wait to get this kit from joey :)
 
No, thats the price of the motor, if you get a good deal. You need to stop leading people to believe that it only costs a couple hundred bucks to swap in a 3 liter. Its still more expensive then just a motor, and involves a decent amount of labor!

i did mine for 700$ untuned with SVT components. i did already have headers and a good clutch, however.

yes... if you are not mechanically inclined you can't do it yourself, and it becomes an expensive project.

i could do a full 3L swap for under 500$ easy. i just can't find another contour to do it on, lol!

of course in this guys case, he already put on the 2.5L heads and he obviously was inclined enough to do the engine. so he should buy an accusump. but how easy is that to put in? if you can't do that yourself, you will have to go to a performance shop to have it installed, as the average auto tech probably wouldnt know what an accusump is. so the 400$ accusump will cost a couple hundred to install unless he can do it himself. and if he can do it himself... why pay 600$ish total for an accusump if you can have a 3L and solve the problem that way and have more power. okay now i'm just babbling, i hope you saw my point. i didnt mean to say its' a couple hundred dollar easy job to do an engine swap. its pretty envolved.
 
you forgot the part about he has a turbo on the way... a 3L is almost pointless with those pistons he can crank that boost nice and high and get 3L power anyway.
 
thanks buddy, yeah the turbo kit is comming and like u said with these pistons should give me a good output, as said im thinking of getting one of these kits and fitting it myself, ill have to call bats and tell them whats invlolved in fitting this and im sure they wont mind helping me with what to do, im pretty good at doing stuff so ill c about it, thanks all for the comments and suggestions its appreciated again :)
 
i did mine for 700$ untuned with SVT components. i did already have headers and a good clutch, however.

yes... if you are not mechanically inclined you can't do it yourself, and it becomes an expensive project.

i could do a full 3L swap for under 500$ easy. i just can't find another contour to do it on, lol!

of course in this guys case, he already put on the 2.5L heads and he obviously was inclined enough to do the engine. so he should buy an accusump. but how easy is that to put in? if you can't do that yourself, you will have to go to a performance shop to have it installed, as the average auto tech probably wouldnt know what an accusump is. so the 400$ accusump will cost a couple hundred to install unless he can do it himself. and if he can do it himself... why pay 600$ish total for an accusump if you can have a 3L and solve the problem that way and have more power. okay now i'm just babbling, i hope you saw my point. i didnt mean to say its' a couple hundred dollar easy job to do an engine swap. its pretty envolved.

I see your point, I just think you're fooling a few of the more naive members. Pulling and installing a motor is still a pretty involved task. It can get expensive too, things break... fluids spill.... pulse wheels go on the wrong way.... chain tensioners are hand tightened :)laugh:).

Mounting up an accusump im sure is a much easier task :cool:
 
cool thanks for the info, ill have to take pics and show the process of installing this and do a how to on here so that i might help others on here :)
 
here are some photos from when I did this a few years back, some may help, some might not, since the vehicle platform is different. The write up should still be on the old forum, although the photo links are dead in that thread.

Accumulator_2.jpg

Accumulator_1.jpg

Accumulator_3.jpg

untitled.jpg

Accumulator_8.jpg

mods.jpg

Accumulator_7.jpg

Accumulator_9.jpg

Accumulator_4.jpg
 
man buddy that drawing, picture and writeup was bad ass honestly, thats the stuff we need on here, this should be put as a sticky, i like the way u mounted it to the bulk head now thats clever, deff gonna buy this now, thanks for the pics and info again that is very much appreciated :)
 
man buddy that drawing, picture and writeup was bad ass honestly, thats the stuff we need on here, this should be put as a sticky, i like the way u mounted it to the bulk head now thats clever, deff gonna buy this now, thanks for the pics and info again that is very much appreciated :)

Thanks for the complements, and although I would love to take credit for it, I was not the individual that originally conceived the idea of hiding an accumulator in the cowl. It is possible I was the first to complete it, but I do not remember if the idea had only been discussed before me, or if someone had done it.


pope, interesting mounting. by any chance does the plastic trim fit back over?


Yes.
SVT021.jpg

SVT018.jpg


using this location does require permanent removal of the hepa filter, but is otherwise fairly non-intrusive.




I miss that car.
 
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Looking through the old forums, I can confirm that Bondurant beat me to that mounting location, otherwise details and discussions of that location are primarily during/after my installation.

Either way, I know I was not the first, because I got the idea from someone else, but whether it was discussion of the Bondurant cars or of someone else's install I do not know.
 
still its a clever place to mount this, is there any other place u can get these from instead of bats, ive seen some on ebay but dont know if they will fit my car or be suitable for my car, any help on this is apprecaited thanks :)
 
First I would officially like to re-credit Shaggy from the old forums for being the individual that gave me the idea to put the accumulator under the cowl. I have discovered that he was the one that suggested that location to me and had discussed the possible mounting site with me via pm's.

I put together my whole system from Summit. I have not compared prices since then but the following is what I used when I did it.

I believe it also pertinent to state that it is important to connect the accumulator to the port that currently has the oil pressure sensor sender. This is because the oil pressure sender port is clean oil, the hex plugged port next to it is pre-filter "dirty" oil. The hex plugged port is fine for the relocation of the sender (oil pressure will simply read slightly higher), but the accumulator should only be connected to a clean oil source since this will help prevent debris from damaging the internal seals in the accumulator. The best option is to add a "t" fitting to the clean oil port and connect both the pressure sensor sender and accumulator, but simply relocating the oil pressure sender to the "dirty" oil hex plugged location ~1 in. away is the way I went since I really did not care if any potential debris made it to the oil pressure sender. There are additional options that are more work and offer zero real benefit, so if anyone is interested, the discussions are still available in the old forums.

The following quote is my parts and prices list from over 3 years ago, prices may have changed. Prices as of 09/22/10 in brackets
Prices through Summit:

Sum-220846......-8AN to 3/8NPT Connector: $2.69 [2.95]
Sum-220847......-8AN to 1/2NPT Connector: $3.95 [4.75]
Sum-220890......-8AN straight swivel hose end $5.95 Ea (2 req.) [6.95 ea.]
Sum-230806.......Stainless Steel Braided Hose (-8AN, 6') $27.95 [29.95]
Mor-23901........Moroso 1.5 Qt Accumulator $179.88 [194.95]
Mor-23905........12vlt Electric Solenoid Valve $99.88 [101.95]
Mor-23920........Mounting Bracket for Accumulator $24.88 [25.95]

Total: $351.13 [374.40]


Old Forum Discussions said:
 
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