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P0171, P0174, P1131, P1151 Lean codes, sputtering, bogging, bucking, no power, PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Change both upper o2s...

I know that the codes listed are the only ones you have but I was just making a reference.

That sucks you need keys unless you can get it flashed. I dont know if ford still does this for a 99.
 
svttour said:
Change both upper o2s...

I know that the codes listed are the only ones you have but I was just making a reference.

That sucks you need keys unless you can get it flashed. I dont know if ford still does this for a 99.
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i absolutely hate throwing parts at cars hoping they will solve a problem. and with my luck ill spend $120 on new O2s and the problem will still be there.

another option would be to put a non SVT ecu in it and see what happens. i can get my hands on one of those with keys for around $35-40. DAMN YOU PATS!!
 
it might still cause an issue. but then if you throw in a non SVT ecu you have to go to the cream 17# injectors..
 
svttour said:
it might still cause an issue. but then if you throw in a non SVT ecu you have to go to the cream 17# injectors..
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it might still run ok being that they are only 2lbs difference. if not, i have a set laying here.
 
not bad here right now .. 78 degrees and sunny. Im sure someone from the Ohio chapter will chime in.. if not they are all on facebook everynight for hours upon hours.
 
svttour said:
not bad here right now .. 78 degrees and sunny. Im sure someone from the Ohio chapter will chime in.. if not they are all on facebook everynight for hours upon hours.
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i don't do the facebooks.

you aren't that mikey_edge guy on instagram by chance are you?
 
you wanna talk to billy henninger. i dont remember what his name is on here, but he's real close to you and is very knowledgeable about svt's
 
Just throwing this out there... I can flash PATS keys from scratch if you need it. I need two keys(proper keys for the model year, 99.5+ keys will not flash to a 98-99.5 PCM), and the PCM. Also, I'd need the milliage of the car, and the VIN#, this way, if you do swap ECUs you'll pass a VIN-Ver if you need to for emissions/registration. The PCM would end up getting the latest software available. I.e., an SFG0 would get updated to an SFG2 (or 3 can't remember which is latest, you get the point).

I'd do it for the cost of a temp subscription to the FEPS software I need o do the flash. Costs like $35-45 or so IIRC. And If I can't make it work for some reason, I'd refund.

About your issues... Does it idle smooth, and stay around ~750RPM? Are the fuel injectors still the oem EV1 style (has metal retaining clip)? If they are the EV6 newer style(has less bulky connector), the plastic clips break just by looking at them, and you may have a poor/loose connection.

does your scan tool show Live Data while the car is running? Can you look to see what the LTFT is for both banks, and watch timing, O2 Voltage etc. to try and glean some info about what the issue might be? If you need to, take a video of the scan tools Live Data, and post it.
 
hylix said:
Just throwing this out there... I can flash PATS keys from scratch if you need it. I need two keys(proper keys for the model year, 99.5+ keys will not flash to a 98-99.5 PCM), and the PCM. Also, I'd need the milliage of the car, and the VIN#, this way, if you do swap ECUs you'll pass a VIN-Ver if you need to for emissions/registration. The PCM would end up getting the latest software available. I.e., an SFG0 would get updated to an SFG2 (or 3 can't remember which is latest, you get the point).

I'd do it for the cost of a temp subscription to the FEPS software I need o do the flash. Costs like $35-45 or so IIRC. And If I can't make it work for some reason, I'd refund.

About your issues... Does it idle smooth, and stay around ~750RPM? Are the fuel injectors still the oem EV1 style (has metal retaining clip)? If they are the EV6 newer style(has less bulky connector), the plastic clips break just by looking at them, and you may have a poor/loose connection.

does your scan tool show Live Data while the car is running? Can you look to see what the LTFT is for both banks, and watch timing, O2 Voltage etc. to try and glean some info about what the issue might be? If you need to, take a video of the scan tools Live Data, and post it.
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that's very kind of you for the offer of programming my keys. i appreciate it and ill definitely keep it in mind.

as far as my scanner goes, unfortunately all it does is read codes and the definition of them. i have no means of logging or reading anything except with my innovate wideband which i will be doing as soon as i find some time and warm weather.

i have a new found discovery. i have disconnected the vacuum hose on the egr actuator (and plugged it of course) and the car runs remarkably better. it still has a stumble while lugging but it is a beast at full throttle. this tells me that there might indeed be a vacuum leak somewhere seeing that when i removed a source of intake air (the egr) the car ran way better. the wideband should be able to confirm this. i also cleared the kam and then unplugged both upsrteam O2s just too see how the car would react. i did this both with the erg connected and disconnected. while the egr was connected and everything was correct (with the exception of the O2s being unplugged) the car was almost undrivable. again, i disconnected the erg and it got better but it didn't run nearly as well as it did with the O2s connected.

anyone feel free to comment on your thoughts of my experiment. i thank everyone for their input.
 
any luck with the problems you were having? i have almost the same issues and am ready to drive this pos into the river and cash out my ins policy, lol
 
Turns out the battery cables had fused them selves together at some point in its life causing all sorts of problems. The positive cable heading back to the main fuse had also welded itself to the egr tube. I replaced all the cables and sold the car. At the point of sale the car was running a lot better but still not right. I'm just glad its gone. These cars are an engineering disaster.
 
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