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HELP!!! Timing chain broke????
- Thread starter xtascox
- Start date
69Boss302
Has mile high skills
It isn't supposed to come off. Just open the petcock and let it drain. It can be removed but isn't needed for normal maintenance.
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
Sorry, I was referring to the starter bolts but I figured out they are 13mm.
Man are these bolts stuck! I sprayed loads of PB blaster on them and am going to let them sit over night, spray some more in the morning before work, then start wrenching again after work. Its really difficult to get to the front one with a wrench but I can at least get one on it. I'm hoping these bolts ease up because I really, really miss driving my car
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
If worst comes to worst I'll drain the coolant and move the hoses so I can get a better grip. I always could heat very carefully with a small torch. Although it might be too close to the fuel rail.
heat what though? The bolt? Can't, you would need to heat the part of the tranny where the bolts thread into correct? IDK, I've never had much luck with heating things up to remove something, maybe I'm doing something wrong though :shrug:
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
I've always just applied direct heat to the head of the bolt and it has worked for me in the past. In fact that's how I got my rear struts done over a year ago.
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
w00t! Got the back one broken loose! One more to go... Thank you pb blaster!
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
Got the damn thing out after more than a struggle. And here is my current diagnosis which I would like to confirm with my local dealer. One of the guys there knows the Duratec in and out so I'm hoping he'll be able to check it out.
If you know how a starter works then you know that the gear moves forward, engages with the flywheel, turns the motor, and when you release the ignition, the gear disengages and moves back away from the flywheel and that should all happen smoothly and flawlessly. So now comes the explanation of the start up noise. I can move the gear forward to its engaged position, but it does not return to the disengaged position all the way. It just moves back a little bit. That explains the sounds from that part of the engine. The starter was not disengaging fully and was hitting against the flywheel until it eventually kicked it back.
Now for my reasoning as to why it won't start the car. After so long of sticking against the flywheel on almost every cold start, I believe that the starter is no longer engaging fully. I believe that only part of the the gear is making contact with the flywheel and is therefore slipping and not turning the engine properly. You can kind of tell this is happening by the location of the wear marks on both the flywheel and starter.
Again I will try to confirm this with a dealer or other "knowledgeable" mechanic tomorrow or ASAP.
Now we must wait...
If you know how a starter works then you know that the gear moves forward, engages with the flywheel, turns the motor, and when you release the ignition, the gear disengages and moves back away from the flywheel and that should all happen smoothly and flawlessly. So now comes the explanation of the start up noise. I can move the gear forward to its engaged position, but it does not return to the disengaged position all the way. It just moves back a little bit. That explains the sounds from that part of the engine. The starter was not disengaging fully and was hitting against the flywheel until it eventually kicked it back.
Now for my reasoning as to why it won't start the car. After so long of sticking against the flywheel on almost every cold start, I believe that the starter is no longer engaging fully. I believe that only part of the the gear is making contact with the flywheel and is therefore slipping and not turning the engine properly. You can kind of tell this is happening by the location of the wear marks on both the flywheel and starter.
Again I will try to confirm this with a dealer or other "knowledgeable" mechanic tomorrow or ASAP.
Now we must wait...
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
That is a reasonable conclusion. Bad solenoid spring. Happens now and then. The biggest concern should be the teeth on the ring gear. Are they ok? by not fully engaging the starter the edge of the teeth can be ground off and the ring gear will need to be replaced or rotated so it does not stop in the same place.
AF
AF
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
Forgive me but which is the ring gear? I'm assuming that is the main gear on the starter, the one that makes contact with the flywheel? I was planning on just replacing the whole starter to avoid any further problems down the road. I'd rather not pull it again.
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
The ring gear is the toothed portion on the edge of the flywheel. Most engines will stop in about the same place. I don't know why that happens, since you'd think it would be more random. This same thing happened to a 350 I once had. The partial engagement of the starter drive gear caused the ring gear to strip out. Check the condition of your ring gear on the flywheel.
AF
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
I turned the engine by hand in small increments and checked the ring gear and the only thing I saw where what looked liked marks where somethings had been hitting on top of the gear teeth. But other than that the gear teeth are completely intact.
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
You starter problems probably do not explain you not starting problem. Once the starter gear engages the flywheel, there is no slippage. Gears do not slip, at least not without tearing the gears up.
However, fix what you have found and go from there.
However, fix what you have found and go from there.
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
But if the internals where worn out the starter wouldn't be turning at the rate it should would it? Especially if it was getting stuck during previous start ups. If I remember physics correctly, continual forced turning of an electrical motor can have bad consequences.
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
In other words the starter shaft is loose, drive gear is damaged and causes it to bind up.....:laugh: again not uncommon with a badly worn or broken starter. Repalce the whole thing and see what happens.
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
Exactly my plan.
I took it to an automotive electrical specialty shop today which has been in business longer than I've been alive. They bench tested it and examined it all for $5 which they didn't even charge me. The starter turns but one technician after examining it said that the drive shaft was worn out because he could wiggle the gears around easily. The guy behind the counter called at least 5 different places getting me lower and lower prices each time and eventually I went from a $160 reman to a $125 reman which I will be picking up tomorrow afternoon. I highly would recommend this shop to anyone in my area. It's called Stackhouse Automotive Electrical and is located in West Pittston, PA.
Even if the car still won't start, the starter needed replaced anyway, so I won't be worried.
xtascox
Hard-core CEG'er
I have a question... or two. Will I be able to verify the new starter fixed my problem without putting everything back together? What should it sound like when I try to turn it over(should it sound like a normal car trying to start)? Am I correct in assuming that this is not what it will sound like? http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j4/xtascox/car/?action=view¤t=carproblem.flv
The engine should turn over with the plugs out correct? Obviously will not start!
The engine should turn over with the plugs out correct? Obviously will not start!
69Boss302
Has mile high skills
as long as the starter is connected, it will turn over.