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Torsen install - a few pics

B

B3NN3TT

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Feb 9, 2005
Messages
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
So I finally have this thing back together now, from the Torsen swap. MAN, what a horrible job, pulling the transaxle. I had one large bolt left over when I was finished - and I have NO CLUE where it came from. But everything seems fine - so I must be OK for now!

Here's a few photos...

Some parts pr0n - SVT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, and Torsen LSD
DSC00044.jpg


No transmission!
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Stock clutch disc - doesn't look bad at all, especially for 135,000 miles all-original!
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Stock differential looks a little weird...
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Yeah. Definitely something wrong here.
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The transaxle magnet - with a lot of my old diff stuck to it:
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MUCH better.
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I'm still on break-in for the new clutch, so I've not really hammered on it at all yet (although I did open it up some today at 460 miles - feels great!). While it was down, I installed a new water pump and thermostat, and a weapon-R y-pipe. Should feel like a new car when the break-in period is over - around lunchtime tomorrow!
 
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Take a pic of the large bolt left over... that isn't good! :laugh: We'll be able to tell you what it is right away.

Nice parts though! If someone isn't planning on any forced induction, I'd recommend your setup any day. I love the stock SVT clutch with a lightweight flywheel and a torsen. That was my first setup I installed back in the day on my 2.5 SVT before I went FI.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Did you change the shims with the Torsen or drop it right in?
Click to expand...

I had always read that you could pretty confidently re-use any factory shims, in their original places.

The factory differential had one shim. I kept it in the same spot, under the new bearing races. I was a little concerned about that when we were doing it, but there is ZERO noise from the drivetrain, and no undue play in the gears when the bellhousing was bolted back on. So I'm pretty confident that the factory shim was all we needed.
 
Reebs said:
Take a pic of the large bolt left over... that isn't good! :laugh: We'll be able to tell you what it is right away.
Click to expand...

I'll have to take one. It's about the same size as a large bellhousing bolt - about 3 inches long - and has a washer. But as far as I know, all of teh bellhousing bolts are in place...
 
Andy Bennett said:
I had always read that you could pretty confidently re-use any factory shims, in their original places.

The factory differential had one shim. I kept it in the same spot, under the new bearing races. I was a little concerned about that when we were doing it, but there is ZERO noise from the drivetrain, and no undue play in the gears when the bellhousing was bolted back on. So I'm pretty confident that the factory shim was all we needed.
Click to expand...

You really can't just re-use them with any confidence , the tolerance stackups will be different when you change any of the parts. That said, occasionally you get lucky, and it all fits good enough. IIRC, you'll know within a couple thousand miles if its all ok or not . . . Hopefully yours is all good.
 
Rara said:
You really can't just re-use them with any confidence , the tolerance stackups will be different when you change any of the parts.
Click to expand...

Exactly.... even if you are just swapping stock diff for stock diff, you can't re use the shims with any confidence. I hope everything works out for him but I wouldn't have just thrown it together like that.
 
True, hence my concern.

Basically, everyone I had already spoken to in the past who had done it before had just re-installed the factory shims, and had no ill effects. So I just assumed (I know, I know) that that extreme precautions weren't necessary, even though they would be logical.

I checked for any excessive lateral movement in the diff, and likewise for any binding, as I was torqing the case back together; everything felt the same as the stock transaxle. I know that's no substitute for a mechanical probe, but the "war stories" were what I was going on.

I'd think that any issues with that would be apparent very early on in the life of the new parts, as noise in the drivetrain - whining or rattling.

Regardless, time will tell. I do appreciate the advice though; it's something I will keep an eye on, and if this ever happens again, you can BET i'll be taking every precaution.

For thoroughness' sake - exactly how do you check tolerances once the case has been buttoned up?
 
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