Dyno tune vs mail order tune

[SJon85]

Since I dont know much about the whole tuning process I wanted to post and see what others think about my situation. As some of you know I have a tune from NPG that ran my stock uim on my full 3L just fine, now I just put my ST220 uim and 65mm TB on and thats where the problems begin.

I am on my third new tune from Joey since putting the new intake on, and it still runs like poop. It struggles in low RPMs but after 4kish it has no problems pulling like a freight train. When cruising at low rpms it skips and misses soo bad sometimes that my serp belt slips and squeels all the time not to mention the car jerking like crazy. My air fuel gauge is kinda alll over the place. Surges when idling, and likes to die sometimes as well.

As much as I dont want to fork out another $500 on a dyno tune I feel like I just need to in order to get it runnning right. This whole datalogging and test driving around to see if anything has changed is wearing me and the car out, as I am starting to hear strange noises probably from the constant jerky and crappy powerband. And I dont think Joey has ever tuned an ST220, and half the time he doesnt remember why hes doing the tune or forgets that I sent him datalogs. So what should I do my fellow CEG'rs?

 

[SVT Doood]

This thread is pertinent to my interests...

 

[RFcsvt]

I am by no means a tuning expert but I have been through the process of doing a 3L swap and having it dyno tuned so here's what I think based on how my swap and dyno tune went.

If you have a place that is going to do your tune I would give them a call and tell them exactly what's going on with your car, give them all the details about your swap including the issues you have been experiencing with the ST220 uim and the mail order tunes that don't seem to be helping. When I called to make the appointment to dyno tune the guy I worked with talked me through all the details that should be worked out prior to bringing the car in, basically this is to avoid fixing things while you are paying for dyno time. I have a feeling if you can run through what's going on with the tuner they may be able to let you know if it's something that could be fixed by the tune or if it's something that needs to be figured out prior to getting on the dyno. I was actually able to get a baseline tune that compensated for the injectors and EGR delete and the car ran pretty good. I ran it like that for a week to work out any problems and to gain a little confidence before I brought it in to tune.

My 3L is a full 06 Escape, I used the Escape UIM, 24lb injectors, stock MAF and intake and it really didn't have any driveabilty issues prior to tuning. It was running very rich and the idle did jump up and down for a few minutes, but it eventually would idle normal and didn't exhibit any jerking or surging like you are experiencing.

In my opinion the dyno tune is the way to go. It sounds like many people are very happy with their mailed tunes but if you have a little extra cash the dyno tune will really get it dialed in where it should be. Just make sure your car is working properly on dyno day. My dyno tune took about 2 hours which was not bad at all. The guy that did mine does a really good job and had previously done a full 3L Contour. My tune got done and then my clutch slipped, so I learned a bit of a lesson with that. But now the clutch is fixed and the tune is great and the car runs perfectly.

Sorry for the lengthy post, I understand these projects can get expensive very quickly, especially when you are paying by the hour on a dyno. Talk to the tuner, get everyhing working the best it can prior to the tune and you should end up very happy with your car in the end.

 

[SHOgoFast]

If a 100% stock SVT ECU can compensate for and additional .5L of displacement, your full 3L tune from Joey can/should compensate easily for a UIM and TB change. Hell, look at the range a turbo tune has, capable of running just fine off boost, and is able to handle all the additional airflow up to 10-12psi.

I refuse to believe the TB and UIM is altering airflow so greatly that the tune/ecu is unable to adapt.

I've read your other threads too, and you have obviously put a ton of effort into vac leak searches, and other trouble shooting. However, I'm not convinced the tune is at fault.

Have you tried to go back to the stock TB and UIM, see if things smooth out then?

 

[SJon85]

If a 100% stock SVT ECU can compensate for and additional .5L of displacement, your full 3L tune from Joey can/should compensate easily for a UIM and TB change. Hell, look at the range a turbo tune has, capable of running just fine off boost, and is able to handle all the additional airflow up to 10-12psi.

I refuse to believe the TB and UIM is altering airflow so greatly that the tune/ecu is unable to adapt.

I've read your other threads too, and you have obviously put a ton of effort into vac leak searches, and other trouble shooting. However, I'm not convinced the tune is at fault.

Have you tried to go back to the stock TB and UIM, see if things smooth out then?

YOU sir are correct, apparently I am having a problem with my spark as Joey just now pointed out in my datalogs.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?68580-Firing-issue-maybe-cam-or-crank-sensor