crewchiefpro
Hard-core CEG'er
Leave that ground alone, piggy back from the body to the coil bracket using another 10 gauge wire. Use the same bolt on the body.
Leave that ground alone, piggy back from the body to the coil bracket using another 10 gauge wire. Use the same bolt on the body.
So i couldn't figure out why pressure wasn't getting past the fuel rail adapter and I called joey at NPG to make sure I had it hooked up right. My brother and I had switched the quick connects on the fuel lines around to see if that changed anything, and it didn't - so i had to switch it back so that the feed line was the bigger quick connect and the return line with the smaller one..however, since I had it connected line this initially, this time i took the fuel regulator off and put another one on that was on a svt contour fuel rail that I had laying around. Connected everything, and fired it up to see if there was fuel pressure and indeed there was. I was getting about 55 PSI. Unfortunately, it still wouldn't start - so like you said (before I actually read your post lol) we pulled a spark plug to see if it had any gas on it, and nope - it was dry. So we proceeded to take the intake manifold off to access the fuel rail to see what was going on. I disconnected the whole lower intake and positioned it upwards and had my brother crank the engine, and some fuel came out on the first injector but it came out of the part of the rail that sits on the top of the injector. Instead of really fixing it I just took the fuel rail out because it was an escape fuel rail and it seems a bit abnormal anyway because everything seemd to be positioned in a way that the injectors couldn't fully seat into the intake. I took the injectors out and put them back in the taurus rail and tied everything down. This is where I stopped for the night because i need to get my fuel line disconnect tools from school so that I can transfer the npg adapter over to the taurus rail..hopefully i get that on tomorrow and she fires up. Oh by the way, I;m not concerned about the timing, and having the timing sprocket on the 3.0 keyway because I checked the timing like 3 times and made sure the sprocket was faced towards the crank sensor.if the fuel rail checks out
then .... are the spark plugs wet after you have been trying to start it ?
... if no,
it could be injectors not firing ...... check the 3 multiplugs on the side of the rear cam cover
.. if yes...... could be timing ... 3 liter timing sprocket on 2 5L PCM .....G.
Oh by the way, I;m not concerned about the timing, and having the timing sprocket on the 3.0 keyway because I checked the timing like 3 times and made sure the sprocket was faced towards the crank sensor.
Doesn't matter which vc bolt. I have several large wire grounds to the engine, more than the factory puts on them.
I went to the junkyard and pulled 10 ground straps from all kinds of cars so I have plenty. I have two 2 gauge grounds from the battery negative in the trunk to the body. 3 grounds from the body to the engine, one dedicated for the coil.
Sorry, I should have explained this more clearly.
It is my understanding that when you run a 3.0L engine in a contour / cougar, you are actually running it as a bored out 2.5L
On the timing sprocket there are two keyway cut outs,. one is for 2.5L, the other is for 3.0L and are marked as such.
If you are running an SVT 2.5L PCM, then you need to set the timing sprocket to 2.5L
Unless your tune has re-written the timing tables to complete 3.0L settings, you may have starting issues with the sprocket set to 3.0L.
Type timing / starting into the 3.0L section search box and you should find the threads that cover guys having starting issues after an engine swap ....G.
...so you took the timing cover off your 3.0L and moved the sprocket to the other keyway ?
....I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think that the timing method you described above, only works if you are using the 2.5L timing cover and sensor or a 3.0L cover which has the exact same sensor position.
Maybe one of the mod's can clarify that situation.... I'm sure the answer is in the archives.
All the injectors share a common feed (live / 12v) and the grounds all go separately back to the PCM.
I assume when you say you changed the wiring, you mean the connectors for a different style of electrical injector plug..... which injectors are you using. ?.... G.
okay no porblem man, I dont have a problem confirming anything.OK; first of all...no confusion, the reason I'm asking you to confirm things is because over the net ... Assume nothing.. We need you to confirm each step so you don't waste time checking things needlessly.
I think the injectors are marked + and - ... you might need a magnifying glass to see the marks in the plastic.
Not sure about the gauge of the wire .... but all the +ve's are powered by the same common feed.
The ground (-ve) of each injector is separate.
All wires go back thru the plugs on the side of the rear cam cover.... check continuity back to and thru that multiplug.
I don't recommend putting any voltage thru the PCM ... not at this stage .... just confirm the wiring for the injectors and then report back before touching the PCM ....G..
oh yes, there is a ground wire to the PCM in that top corner of the engine bay ... make sure that is securely bolted down. .
AFK ..i'll check back tomorrow.
..... you will need a multimeter to test continuity and voltages of the injector wiring. A light will only tell you that the injector it is not working ... not why.
The fact that 5 injectors are not working suggests a supply issue ....how did you cut and re-connect the wiring when you changed the injector plugs ?
I can't believe 5 separate grounds are faulty .... unless the multiplug serving them is not firmly snapped closed. All 3 of my plugs have zip ties holding them firmly together... I broke down because of poor connections across those plugs .... car starts first time every time and never had an issue since.
Not sure what relay you are talking about bypassing .... can't see it being your issue since 1 of your injectors is working.
You will need to trace the wires back from the injectors, testing / checking them as you go..
Ask your tutor to walk you through it ... much easier to have that conversation / instruction face to face. ....G.
If anyone has a schematic diagram of the injector harness ... please post a link
..... ok sounds good.
would be really good if you could post up the PCM pin numbers for each injector -ve. .... G.
The ground cable from the coil is suppose to attach to one of the DPFE bracket bolts as I recall.
...... now we're cookin'. .
That plug connector continuity loss is common after an engine swap .... fingers crossed you've found all your issues ..... G.