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is this really necessary?

95_Mystique

95_Mystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
3,970
Location
Middletown, Pa
i'm looking to buy a set of cams from SVTDEMON and these are the specs from the cam...

INT. EXT. INT. EXT. INT. EXT.
9.9mm(.390") 9.9mm(.390") 218° 218° 240° 240° 110
M-6252-A202 Radical Street/Strip profile. Manual transmission with headers. CNC ported head with port matched intake. Increased compression recommended: 10.5:1 - 12.0:1. Excellent power naturally aspirated PLUS super nitrous cam or with supercharger. RPM range: 3,000 - 8,000


What i want to know is, is it really necessary to bump up the compression to 10.5:1, have the CNC ported head and have a header? Or is that just the recommendation for the most power?
 
Yeah it wont run at all with out a CNC ported head :rolleyes: read your own answer


Or is that just the recommendation for the most power?
 
haha, yea i guess you're right, i just want to make sure i wont cause any damage to the eninge by not doing any of the things it says.
 
on the other hand if the cam is that radical you may want to check piston to valve clearance
 
thats a good amount more lift, it "shouldnt" make contact but you dont need a cam like that until you have a serious bottom end and head to go with it.
 
Devanmc said:
thats a good amount more lift, it "shouldnt" make contact but you dont need a cam like that until you have a serious bottom end and head to go with it.
Click to expand...

Really? cuz it seems kinda on the mild end compared to some of the other cams i've found.
 
It's not mild for a Contour imo. Where are these other cams? I would like cams. Show me now.

Even if there is enough clearance if you don't have the right valve springs the same thing is going to happen.
 
LokisTyro98SE said:
It's not mild for a Contour imo. Where are these other cams? I would like cams. Show me now.

Even if there is enough clearance if you don't have the right valve springs the same thing is going to happen.
Click to expand...

it will require new valve springs and thus redoing the tappet clearances.

and looking at your car domain, full exhuast(headers, DP, and 2"-2.25" exhuast) is going to be a better mod for your car over an aggressive cam. since your engine wont be able to actually pump anymore exhaust out because of the contours extremely constrictive stock exhaust.
 
Pretty silly, only 218 degrees on the intake, no way is that sucker gonna hit 8000 rpm. Well, maybe if you put a few bricks on the gas pedal and let it rev in neutral. .........
 
there shouldn't be any clearance issues if they're telling you to get max performance you need to increase your compression ratio. but cams should be on the bottom of the list if you don't have the other mods to support them.
 
I dont see what needs to be built up on the bottom end to handle cams. I mean, its not like i'm running any kind of forced induction. i can understand valve springs, tappets, and cam gears, but other than that, i dont quite understand.
 
and im curious why you want to go straight to cams, after an intake. focus cams arent even a straight swap for a pre98. it would be much easier and IMO a better plan. do other things first like full exhaust first.

then cams becuase youll need a tune for them. so why get cams and a tune. when shortly after you'll do exhaust and need another tune.

and even though you have no mufflers, your exhuast is still about the size of a straw. which doesnt help make any power. and the stock manifold sucks monkeys
 
You go to the bottom end because if NOT supercharged the only way to get more power is by ultimately spinning the motor faster. Need the xtra strength either way. Also, cams on NA motor MUST have like header to work since header really wakes cams up. Just like on the old V-8s, external first (intake and exhaust mods) then go internal next. Cams need the external mods to work, if not you have thrown all your cash away. Can't count the substandard motors I have rebuilt where someone broke those rules.
 
To partly answer question, you bump up compression because the longer cam timing loses some of it. Always a tradeoff, that's why you have like 13/1 on really long timing motors like pro stock NA. Any time you get bigger cams the maker will tell you to bump the squeeze up.
 
Alright, so a header. Does the Weapon R header for a Cougar bolt right in? also, what would be a good size exhaust to run? I cant see runing a 3" on an N/A car. Would an SVT exhaust work?
 
the SVT exhuast would be a good choice. and the weapon-R header fits up well, just make sure to keep the bracket that secures the downpipe to the block or engine roll will snap the header over time.
 
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