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noob help ('00 SVT content)

While the cats could be clogged up, and the CEL is not lighted, I suggest you get the codes read (even if it is not lighted) for any pending codes and post the codes here.
 
I know you said you can hear the secondaries opening, but could you at least open the hood and have someone rev the engine and visually inspect that they are opening. Once you check them like this, everyone will keep bugging you to check your secondaries. Btw, the timing is different when the secondaries open, so that could be the reason for the different engine tone if your secondaries werent opening but your still above the RPM in which they do open.
 
The Dealer said there were no codes stored (My OBD2 reader is in a different state)

I will check the secondaries when I get back but I am en-route to Hawaii, and will be there for about 2 weeks.
 
EWAustin said:
Is it possible that the secondaries not opening could cause the pinging though?
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Let me ask a few questions, what type of gas does she use? Over 91 i hope. We do have a knock sensor in case people do put in a lower grade of gas. Which reads the lower grade fuel and adjusts accordingly. But that sensor could have gone bad if you are using a lower grade gas and the problem like you are explaining occurs.

Try to add some fuel cleaner to the tank. Most of the time its not enough fuel to have a proper explosion inside the cylinder that causes pinging. Too much spark not enough gas. So the gas entering the cylinder head is what we need to concentrate on. Check fuel pressure coming from the injectors. You might have a bad injector.

Headers, yes i have them, they are a great addition and highly recommend them over putting in stock cats. $200 for uncoated headers.:cool:

Bat down pipe yes i have that also. Great addition.The cat material is known for falling apart in 1-1.5 years. So its kinda a problem later because rasp will be created and the cat material likes to fall apart inside your exhaust.
Mils are needed they cost around 50 dollars. Which is nothing to worry about. I have had no problem with mine going bad.

If you would like buy the msds kit which includes mils, headers and a y-pipe for 650. While still having your main cat. With all cats removed it will cause major rasp. Not something a girl would like. Sounds like a junky kinda car IMHO.


Now instead of bilstein get Bat struts. Many people go with bat. Its widely used here on ceg and highly recommended for a replacement for our stock struts.
 
The PCM changes the timing when it commands the secondaries to open. if the CABLE broke, or the hardware at the end of the cable (the plates, etc) then the PCM will NOT know the secondaries are not working.. it will STILL change timing, but you NOT getting extra air flow to USE it. Pinging is likely.
 
2 things I suggest you check when you return.

1. Your IMRC (secondaries) is not working. Start your engine, open your hood and rev it to about 4000 RPM. If you don't see the IMRC cable moving, your IMRC is faulty. I fixed mine by replacing the transistor.

2. Fuel pump (dirty sock). From what I understand, the 99+ Contour fuel pump sock gets clogged up over time and it severely dampers performance. Some people have just removed the sock since it is not necessary.
 
by "are working", do you mean you saw both LINKAGES move, or just saw one/the cable end move?
 
I saw the end of the cable pull and turn the linkage and it close again when the revs dropped back down. Is there a second place I need to look?
 
You’re planning on headers and a test pipe...
You might want to consider a main cat just so you can still pass emissions.
Plus it is not going to take that much power away. The headers are a great power improvement especially if her main cats are clogged.

Headers also improved my gas mileage by 5 mpg and my pre cats only had 35,000 miles on them, so they were definitely not clogged.
 
that linkage is attached to a second linkage that is about 6 or so inches closer to the bumper (the other "half" of the secondaries)

the two are connected via a brass rod so that when one opens via cable, it in turn opens the other via that rod. The bushings that hold said rod to both sides can break as they are made of plastic and get brittle from heat.

The result? one half (the firewall side you saw move) opens, the other does not. symptoms?

the performance has been going downhill sharply. Now it won't pull past about 3500rpm and it pings above 3700rpm under any load at all
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