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Replacing rear subframe - need help

S

SecaRob

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
41
Hello all


My son has been enjoying his Contour that has turned out to be a very reliable little car. However, I was under it last night taking a look at his exhaust leak when I noticed that the rear subframe has now rusted thru in spots. So it's time to replace it.


I have looked thru the website but have not found any pointers or how to's on replacing it. Are there any?? Also, what other components should/will I need to replace while there?


Thanks all
 
Removing the rear subframe is a pretty simple job. Only 4 bolts hold it to the car and one bolt for each of the 4 control arms to the knuckle. You will want to get it realigned after replacing it as well. There are alignmentholes on the subframe and chassis of the car for reference but an alignment is always a good idea.
 
Depending on if you want to do any upgrades while your down there, its a good time to replace trailing arm bushings, Sway bar bushing and endlinks, could install a bigger swaybar, and even aftermarket toe arms.
 
OK, I ordered a new subframe on ebay for $182. It looks as though I can buy most of the bushings & end links at Advanced Auto or Autozone so I will access things as I remove them. Tonight I'll start juicing up all the bolts in hopes of doing the work on Saturday


Thanks all
 
it's also a good time to do the back half of the brake lines if they are in question
 
There are alignment "key-holes" in the rear subframe and frame rail/body rails that allow for very close alignment of the rear subframe for reinstall purposes. Some claim at deep set 17mm socket will suffice in palce of the Ford OEM factory tool. I have not been that lucky, so I purchased the Ford OEM tool from OTC.
I would also suggest poly bushings (Energy Suspension) be used, instead of OEM bushings. Also note that rear subframe is somewhat heavy, but more ungainly when removing - have a floor jack with a large 2 X 6 or 2 X 8 piece of wood on the jack's saddle in order to help balance the cross member upon R&R.
 
Got into it today and everything came out just fine except that I snapped off one of the control arm cam bolts. Does anyone know what the Ford part number is or where I could get one?


I'll post pictures later but I swear the rusted/rotted part I took out weighed a couple of pounds less than the new one going in. Yes it is that bad
 
Everything cleaned up and ready to go back in. Will head over to the dealer tomorrow in search of the bolt
 

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those bolts are expensive, i just bought some myself. f5rz 5k978 a, thats just the long bolt. they also need nut and camber piece if u need the numbers lmk
 
freakin_crazy33 said:
those bolts are expensive, i just bought some myself. f5rz 5k978 a, thats just the long bolt. they also need nut and camber piece if u need the numbers lmk
Click to expand...


No doubt about the cost. $26 for the bolt, $24 for the nut & washer plus the 100 mile round trip to Dayton to pick it up. Saved my son a ton of money though - he's on a college budget...
 
SecaRob said:
Everything cleaned up and ready to go back in. Will head over to the dealer tomorrow in search of the bolt
Click to expand...

WOW - we just don't see this on the West Coast!!! btw - If you require other rear suspension parts, don't hesitate to inquire. I just want them gone for the price of shipping.
 
The rear subframe was crusty! Nice work getting it swapped out. One day I will too :cool:
 
The Ford Shop Manual calls for the T94P-2100-AH Sub-Frame Alignment Tool, which Rotunda has renumbered 502-002. A British tool, TA32 FRANKLIN SUB FRAME ALIGNMENT TOOL - FORD (180545684528) can also be used. A specific tool set to keep an eye out for is T94P-1000-FH / FLMH. This is a master tool kit that contains the alignment pins but it also contains the alignment tools for the shifter cables, the powertrain-to-subframe alignment tool and a ton of other useful stuff. I think I got my set off of Ebay for around $50.
 
For the subframe alignment I just used the 14 or 15mm socket. It's at TD right now getting an alignment I'll ask how far it was out.
 
For those considering this job.


Spend a few days before you start juicing up all the bolted connections with liquid wrench or similar.
Borrow an impact wrench
You don't need to remove the exhaust. Just drop the hangars and let the exhaust drop down a few inches.
Go ahead and replace the end links and sway bar bushings while the subframe is sitting on your lap.
If you decide to replace the gas tank straps while you are there - good luck finding a set that fits perfectly.
Inspect your gas tank filler neck and wish you had ordered one so that you could replace it while you were under the car :( otherwise like myself you will have to plan to go back in


It really is not that bad of a job. It actually sounds worse than it is
 
UPDATE
Should have mentioned I was lucky enough to get some "west coast" suspension bolts from contour_r_us
They were almost factory fresh and he is a really terrific member to deal with goes above and beyond to help

I would also highly recommend the super great rear swaybar brackets made by solo92s10
They are such an improvement over stock!!!


"If you decide to replace the gas tank straps while you are there - good luck finding a set that fits perfectly"
.
Man thats a really true statement
I replaced mine about a yr ago and they were so long i had to put rubber shims to hold it in place
My local mechanic laughed..i challenged him to do better...no dice he said
As well one strap is longer than the other
 
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