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Trouble Accelerating.. WEIRD

The cam sensor looks fine, wires are solid. I took a pic. This is in the area you described the crank sensor. The connection appears to be broken off, Im pretty sure its not supposed to be at an angle like that. Its all down in there, could barely even get a finger on it, and the bolt appears to be on the back side of the tab (closest to engine) making it even harder! How did you get to it? I can barely even see it!!! Heres the pic, connection looks busted doesnt it? I doubt thats how its supposed to be lol

2..JPG
 
Pull upper plastic timing belt cover and check belt. One of mine ran fine then suddenly lost power, bogged at over 2500 rpm. Idled and low end perfect, just no power past certain point. Grab throttle and rev motor free in neutral and motor hit that same limit with no load on it like rev limiter cutting in. Pulled upper cover and could press down on belt between sprockets to make slack, that ain't right. By now car has quit starting just like yours. Bottom plastic idler fell apart and yanked belt out of time, you'll have scratch marks on outside of belt to show part breaking up. Cam timing off a good 1/4 inch. Eventually showed an excessive cam retard code but not at first. I went though fuel pump idea too but plenty of pressure at the rail.

The cam sensor IS angled like that, many are shaped with angle on end.
 
if you have an atx you will not be able to rev the engine past 4k rpm in park or neutral.

also there need so tbe alittle defelection of the timing belt between the cam gears, nature of a belt. It should be about 1/4".
 
Did you guys read any of this? 1. thats not the cam sensor. 2. the car doesnt start no fuel or spark, how am i going to rev it?
 
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and the timing belt is brand new and ran fine. new tensioner also. This is not timing belt related.. there is no fuel or spark suddenly...
 
i just swapped transmissions yesterday, i took a good look at my crank sensor and it looks just like yours. i think amc49 meant to say crank sensor, he'e pretty knowledgeable. if you're not getting any fuel i don't think that would have anything to do with the crank sensor. i would double check all of the fuses in the under hood distribution box. i had one of the blue (40 amp i think) that kept blowing that was causing a problem like yours.
 
Yep relay or fuse. Maybe you should read your own posts. You say TWICE you fixed the fuel problem, however the logic you use to determine that was much less than ideal..............You do NOT have fuel until you positively have read it on a pressure gauge at the rail. That response was '0' I believe. Make sure you had the fitting all the way on good, many people don't and can't get a reading.

No fuel means relay fuse wiring and pump, in a far stretch possible PCM issue. BTDT about a month ago. BOTH relay and pump bad at same time??!! Pump proved out bad and 1 day later relay spit out its' guts. Thinking bad relay shot the very old pump. Car runs fine now.

If you've scanned any posts around here you'd know that brand new timing belt recently produces MUCH more trouble than old ones do. Nobody can put them on right enough to last a week........

VCT cam sensor is on the driver end of exhaust cam to read the extra nubs for VCT.

My point was my car ran like crap at first and then went into a total no start condition because of belt as it jumped even further out of time. Claim what you will but your car is NOT running SO.............you absolutely CANNOT say what the trouble is or is not at this time. I've seen many run battery down low enough from troubleshooting so that no spark, then they throw the kitchen sink at it trying to get spark when all needed was charging battery.
 
Charged battery, its fine. I have fuel pressure now, I put a new pump in per previous post. It just doesnt seem to be firing on the cylinders, like the injectors arent firing. I took out plug and groudned to block confirmed no spark. Will check relays and fuses. No I didnt know that, the car drove fine for almost 10k after new timing belt. Inspected it its firm with very little play and no signs of damages. Would a bad timing belt cause no spark? I wouldnt think so. Tried a new coil to no avail. I should have updated more of what I did over the weekend.
 
also, when i pulled the plug to test spark, it did smell like gas, but wasnt wet, so they may be firing. I did drive the vehicle after new fuel pump also. It hesitated and stuttered still, thats when I found oil in the plug valleys and replaced valve cover to fix that. Went ahead and put new plugs and wires in just because the old ones had oil all over them. Once I was done thats when it stopped starting. Cam sensor looks fine, cleaned connection/inspected wires. Crank sensor looks fine no damage to wires either.
 
im very interested if this was ever fixed, my 2000 csvt is having the same problem, it will go then hesitate then go and so forth. Im not sure when the last tune up was but in aug i will be replacing plugs and wires. Sorry to bump an old thread but i think this would help some people with similar problems.
 
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