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This sounds great. I have been following this, and want to thank you guys for all your work! I see you have dyno numbers at 5 psi of 237 hp/ 250 tq. Do you have final "tuned" dyno numbers yet at 7 psi? Did you hit the 275 hp mark?? Would this be a safe amount of boost with 24# injectors for a daily driver? I have no tranny/ clutch upgrades at this time, but understand dumping the clutch with this kit would destroy my stock pieces. Again thanks alot, I know everyone of us is psyched about this kit. Oh, and my buddy will be first in line for the Mazda 6 kit !!

Rod
 
We decided not to paint the front intercooler since most here would like to paint their own words. Like I will paint NPG for my business name

The tune will be different from the 2.5 liter one that won't be an issue at all.

We are going to try dyno the car Sat if the guy has room to fit me in but if you recall every dyno I saw hit that marker with 7-8 psi so that should correspond over to what I am doing plus my MPH in the quarter was 100mph on 7 psi so I am sure that is a good hint on what power we are running since I ran 110 with over 400whp.

Plus you can run 9 psi if you like since psi has nothing to do with the ring lands hence the power level does. In my eyes we have hit what we wanted from this base kit.
 
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wow, 5 people already, that great ...

so how is the second batch looking? will you start taking deposits for those after the first five are delivered or are there already 5 more interested people?
 
I assume the first 5 slots are for stage 1 (or base kit)?
Can you list stage 2 kit with prices? I believe stage 2 is for 3L.
 
I will still take deposits to put you in line for the next batch considering you understand after the first batch is made I will start on the second. BY the time I do the second batch I will already have order my 3 liter and tested the kit on the stock 3 liter. So yes I will test the kit to just see what components work the best for the best price and power. The stage 2 kit will be available soon as I get my headers in and the 3 liter swapped into my car. I expect to pull this 2.5 liter motor soon since I did the testing on it then I will drop in a 3 liter and put the kit back on and dyno it.

Prices don't hold me too it since I am using a educated guess here.

Stage 2 will be $3325.00 with tune
extras are
*headers coated
*80mm MAF
*larger FMIC
*larger BOV
*larger 60 trim turbo
*8 psi spring
this will be the highest price i am shooting for less then 3300 for the stage 2 providing I can find some MAF for bulk.

This setup will be good for 300whp-325whp the fuel pump will be close to it limits here

If you have any of the peices you can subtract $200 headers, $100 MAF and of course injectors will be $100 since you already have some of the parts for the stage 2

Now remember guys the kit will still work on the 3 liter you might be restrained to 275whp to 300whp with the stage1 kit. The MAF is good for 300whp the injectors are I am not sure if the FMIC it states it flows 600cfm and from that cfm should support that but maybe not as effiecent as the larger FMIC I offer too. The precats were used on Tom car and he was able to get 325whp out of them too. But if I was to do this setup and stay with it I would gut the precats for more power

The stage 2 will net close to 300whp on a 3 liter stock and that we will verfiy for you soon. We already have data on that since Tom has done this setup already. Trust me 300whp is great power and the torque from the 3 liter will be higher too.
 
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I'm curious as to where I should go with this...

I have Weapon R headers, Borla cat-back and an upgraded trans (with a LSD) with everything else being stock (well I have a CAI, but that doesn't apply anymore)

So if I purchase the stage 1 kit would I be able to hit 275-300? Would I be able to keep my 19# injectors? At what point would I need the 24# injectors? Just shooting off random thoughts here.
 
CSVT#49 said:
I'm curious as to where I should go with this...

I have Weapon R headers, Borla cat-back and an upgraded trans (with a LSD) with everything else being stock (well I have a CAI, but that doesn't apply anymore)

So if I purchase the stage 1 kit would I be able to hit 275-300? Would I be able to keep my 19# injectors? At what point would I need the 24# injectors? Just shooting off random thoughts here.
Click to expand...

from what I read if you want to run stock injectors you will need a 3.5 psi spring and will hit around 250 hp, if you want the full 275 to 300 you will need 24 # injectors and the 7 psi spring
 
BrApple said:
from what I read if you want to run stock injectors you will need a 3.5 psi spring and will hit around 250 hp, if you want the full 275 to 300 you will need 24 # injectors and the 7 psi spring
Click to expand...

Which in Mike's case, he could probably go with the 7psi spring and 24# injectors. By upgraded trans, do you mean clutch as well? With as easy as it is to swap out injectors, you might as well go that route with a good tune. The headers alone should bump your power levels from the already dyno'd stage 1 kit. :cool: And you've got the insurance with the built tranny.

Mark
 
Few questions:

I want to get a kit for the SVT and AFAIK the engine, tranny, and clutch components are most likely stock (am not the original owner). Note that I do not plan to drag launches/dump the clutch or anything w/ the stock clutch or tranny. I just like the fact of knowing I have the power and can punch it while already moving and have a quick car. I would rather get a kit that is more on the stronger side (stage 2) and perhaps turn it down a notch but know I can always turn it up when I get stronger supporting mods or if something breaks I can replace w/ better.

I am leaning toward the stage 2 for this reason. Also I have some of the products that come w/ the stage 2 such as WR headers and I have a bigger MAF which is 75MM. Is this MAF too small for the stage 2 since you are including a 80mm w/ the kit? Is it possible to run the stage 2 on a 2.5 SVT motor?

I will most likely be picking up a Trubendz 2.5in cat back. Is this sufficient for both stage 1 and stage 2 or should it be bigger than 2.5in?
 
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teamSVTour said:
Few questions:

I want to get a kit for the SVT and AFAIK the engine, tranny, and clutch components are most likely stock (am not the original owner). I would rather get a kit that is more on the stronger side (stage 2) and perhaps turn it down a notch but know I can always turn it up when I get stronger supporting mods or if something breaks I can replace w/ better.

I am leaning toward the stage 2 for this reason. Also I have some of the products that come w/ the stage 2 such as WR headers and I have a bigger MAF which is 75MM. Is this MAF too small for the stage 2 since you are including a 80mm w/ the kit? Is it possible to run the stage 2 on a 2.5 SVT motor?

I will most likely be picking up a Trubendz 2.5in cat back. Is this sufficient for both stage 1 and stage 2 or should it be bigger than 2.5in?
Click to expand...

1. Go with the 80mm MAF. It is bigger for one, but the fact that it is an OEM Ford part, makes a world of difference with the ease of tuning. You could always sell that 75mm in the classifieds.

2. Yes, you will be able to run the stage 2 on the 2.5L. Everything bolts up the same as the 3L.

3. A full 3" exhaust would be optimum, especially if you have plans of going 3L w/ upgrades down the road. Hell, a 3" exhaust on the 2.5L w/ turbo is ideal as well. 2.5" might be a little more restrictive.

Sorry to answer for you Joey/Tom, but thought I would since I was in here.

Mark
 
Y2KSVT said:
1. Go with the 80mm MAF. It is bigger for one, but the fact that it is an OEM Ford part, makes a world of difference with the ease of tuning. You could always sell that 75mm in the classifieds.

2. Yes, you will be able to run the stage 2 on the 2.5L. Everything bolts up the same as the 3L.

3. A full 3" exhaust would be optimum, especially if you have plans of going 3L w/ upgrades down the road. Hell, a 3" exhaust on the 2.5L w/ turbo is ideal as well. 2.5" might be a little more restrictive.

Sorry to answer for you Joey/Tom, but thought I would since I was in here.

Mark
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Thanks for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure the stage 2 wouldn't shred my stock SVT engine, tranny, and clutch as long as the psi is not turned way up or I'm not dropping the clutch etc.

Guess I should start looking into the 3" cat back tubing kits from Trubendz. I'm also assuming I should hold off on putting that on until I have the turbo on.
 
A 3" exhaust on a naturally aspirated engine is definitely overkill, but it won't harm anything. You might actually have a loss in HP? :shrug: I'd wait until you're 100% sure you're going with the turbo kit, before buying the exhaust.

The stage 2 will work fine with the 2.5L. There were a few guys running the T3/T4 on their 2.5L's, making ~400whp. I believe Joey was one of those people. :) He'll have to let you know any adverse effects, as I would think longer spool times would be the only thing you'd notice with the 2.5L and larger turbo.

Mark
 
While we're on the the subject (and keeping with the theme of "relatively low cost") would a 3" --> 2.25" y-split setup flow well enough for a 3L turbo?

I am thinking of just replacing the "main" piping with 3" pipe and keeping the "y-split" section of my stock SVT exhaust- changing the res & mufflers, too.

Of course, I'll need a 3" cat, too- Tom or Joey, do you happen to know what size inlet a new cat would need?
 
Ok like it was stated the stage 2 doesn't mean you are going to blow your stock engine it means that you may be able to squeeze more power out of 7 psi than I can with everything at stock.

The stage 2 FMIC might make the spool time move upward by 300-400 rpms due to fact that it has to compress more volume but will net less boost drop freeing up the load on the turbo.

If you want to tune the 75mm you will be paying extra for the additional tuning so you should just sell it run with 80 mm and be safe about it.
 
BurritaSVT said:
Ok like it was stated the stage 2 doesn't mean you are going to blow your stock engine it means that you may be able to squeeze more power out of 7 psi than I can with everything at stock.

The stage 2 FMIC might make the spool time move upward by 300-400 rpms due to fact that it has to compress more volume but will net less boost drop freeing up the load on the turbo.

If you want to tune the 75mm you will be paying extra for the additional tuning so you should just sell it run with 80 mm and be safe about it.
Click to expand...

For those going for really big power...what are the limits of the 80mm MAF?
 
BurritaSVT said:
Stage 2 will be $3325.00 with tune
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Is this tune a basic tune also, which does not include further fine tuning?

I asked this because I have already reached agreement with Tom to pay him directly to make me a tune on the 3L/turbo. I also got my own XCal2. So is this the same price?
 
How is the turbo oiling being done? There hasn't been any mention of it... will we need to tap the oil pan? If I already have oil lines (air-oil cooler and stuff) would I be able to "Y" it to the turbo with a reducer on one end and a check valve on the other?

Also... do you have the dimensions for the stage2 intercooler? I'll need to mount it up against the bumper cover and want to make sure there's enough room for it (in front of my oil coolers).
 
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