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Engine is bucking under full throttle

Plug wires should last a very long time. 46K miles is very early. My originals were still good when I replaced them at 150,000 miles. I only chnaged them because I wonted red ones. I guess I was lucky with the Ford racing wires too, as they have not been a problem and they have been on the car for 75,000 miles.

Back to the original complaint. An ignition misfire is a very sharp feeling. It comes when the plug doesn't fire. It happens when the voltage required to fire the plug exceeds the voltage available. Required voltage can be higher than normal when the plugs are badly worn. Available voltage can be low when the coil is defective. If the wires have blown through, usually in the boot area, the spark may be diverted to ground when the path of resistance is lower to ground than the plug. Required voltage to fire the plug also rises with cylinder pressure so a marginal ignition system fires fine under low engine load and misses under heavy load.

So if you feel a sharp miss, inspect the ignition system. Replace the questionable parts as needed.

If what you are feeling is not a sharp feeling, it is more likely to be a fuel supply problem.
 
ok update on my car. I dont the cels scanned.....PO174 P1151 P0153. There has been a cel on my car since I bought it so some of those could be old. And my wire, just replace probably 15,000 miles ago, autolite from Crapzone, so I would think those would be the problem? Suggestions.
 
I encountered carbon tracking on the plug insulator, cylinder 2 (center of rear bank of engine). The spark was traveling to ground instead of the cylinder. It would surge as you accelerated at 2300 RPM, 4th gear (about 35-40 mph). New plugs were needed, and some silicone grease in the plug boots and cleanliness of the socket wrench. The wires were new already.
 
green SVT said:
ok update on my car. I dont the cels scanned.....PO174 P1151 P0153. ...
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Change the Bank 2 (radiator side) Upper O2 sensor and most of your problems will go away. This is the O2 sensor closest to the oil filter.
 
Guys, I'm having this same issue right now....fortunately it only happens when the engine is stone cold and the outdoor temp pretty cold - 30's-40s.
Along with this, I have a pre-secondary studder...it's minor, but it's irritating. Power also feels slightly down across the board.


I've replaced a TON of crap trying to solve this. Plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, IAT, air filter, cleaned MAF (checked voltages too), did the entire UIM/LIM cleaning, new gaskets EVERYWHERE, verified EGR operation, new O2 sensors, PCV, injector seals, etc.

The only things I haven't done yet that I have parts of the bench for (this weekend hopefully) are the ECT sensor and the PCV hose thing that everyone talks about where the bend develops a hole, and the coil pack. If I replace those last three items...I'm left with new injectors as my last option.

Keeping an eye on this thread. Anyone else notice that we're starting to see an increasing number of threads that involve these same sort of symptoms?

Chris
 
Well, I figured I would start with the cheapest first. I went to Team Ford of Marietta yesterday and they were quoting me 140 for the plug wires. I said no way. So I went to teamfordparts.com and using the part number he gave me, the kit comes to 68.80.

Part #f5pz12259ja

Now my next question is, this kit is listed for 2.5L 1995-1999. Mine's a 2000. Does it matter?
 
No. The 2002 Cougar uses a different coil pack and so needs plug wires with different coil end termination. Other than that, the V6 plug wires for the Contour/Mystique/Cougar are all the same.
 
Dude stop jacking my thread...this is about my codes not your coil pack...be polite and try to start your own thread
 
Tony2005 said:
Change the Bank 2 (radiator side) Upper O2 sensor and most of your problems will go away. This is the O2 sensor closest to the oil filter.
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I'll try that but could a o2 sensor really make the car run like that?
 
It could, and even if it were only slightly remote there is a problem there. One of the most important rules about fixing things (cars included) is that you fix what you find then retest. If you know you have an oxygen sensor problem why hit your head against the wall trying every other thing you can think of.
 
Well I agree but I also know that one of those o2 sensor cels are from before I bought the car. It hasnt done the bucking thing for 24 hours (knock on wood) I just finished a tank of gas so possibly it was bad gas? No matter I need to replace the 02 sensor. But thank goodness its running good again
 
my car did that too, but it would happen at 3500rpm, it would feel like there was no gas going in the engine and i thought a piston was going to pop out, turned out to be a poopy fuel pump and the sock for the pump was hanging
 
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I certainly hope these newer members can learn that MULTIPLE PEOPLE with SIMILAR symptoms can prove to be helpful to ALL involved.

"jacking threads" is crap talk. We could leave your thread alone, completely. Wouldn't you rather have someone else chime in with similar symptoms to confirm you aren't the only one, etc?

Cliff's Notes?

Grow up.
 
Grow up. ...Hmm...Let me enlighten you a bit. Yes it is ok to put down similar problems etc, but when the whole post changes from the posters problem to another then, obviously the post is not being used for what is intended for. I REALLY appreciate every single piece of info people are willing to give, and I didnt mean to come off as a ***hole to this other member. But if this other member feels the need to investigate his seperate problems (e.g. coil pack, plugs) then he can feel free to post another thread.
And in reference to being "newer members" you can check my join date...4 years ago just incase you cant see that for yourself (hmm only two years after you). I've owned two SVTs and I'm frequently on CEG, but I dont feel the need to post constantly. So just because my life doesnt revolve around putting my post count into the thousands does not mean I'm not knowledgeable about the workings of this forum. And I really could care less if you posted on this thread or not. I dont base my whole decision on my car from a bunch of bench mechanics, but I do take what I learn here into consideration. I was just trying to inform the other member that he should open his own thread, for both our sakes. So before you go telling people to grow up maybe you should back up your petty claims against "newer members" with some info...
 
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BTW I found one thing that could be the problem. I took off the ford cover that is over the IMRC and found that the cable running from the secondaries to the IMRC had a huge cut in it. I guess the cable had be forced down onto the waterpump/cam belt and was bending and cutting it. So that could be the culprit. Also the wires going into the IMRC plug are showing, and were touching once and a while (actually sparked) so that could be another culprit. But right now its not doing it.
 
Wow.. I feel enlightened.

You've been around longer than I thought.. yet your post made it seem like you were incredibly new. Does that speak volumes for, or against, you?

You are right.. other members could, indeed, make a post of their own. You also could, since you're knowledgeable at the workings of this forum, have PM'ed him to tell him that.

You can take, or leave, any information you want from this thread. I'd suggest taking the whole "pm members you have problems with" to heart. It will not only help you out, but keep other members from getting the wrong ideas about you. (You know.. thinking you were new at this, and all).

I'll be sure to write down the next rude members join date, just so I will know. Thanks, for that.

I do apologize, however, for not verifying when you joined. I didn't realize it would change the context of what you said. Thanks for the enlightenment. Enjoy the site!

EDIT: Your IMRC is fubar'd. I'd either try wrapping those wires, or repairing them if you choose not to replace the IMRC at this time. Good luck.. at least its a straightforward repair/replacement.
 
green SVT said:
Dude stop jacking my thread...this is about my codes not your coil pack...be polite and try to start your own thread
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This, to me, is not polite. If a thread goes off topic and is not acceptable, according to a moderator, the moderator will make a note and request that it be brought back to topic. I am not excited about all this nonsense about "this is my thread, get lost". Please do not cause your own thread to be locked.
 
green SVT said:
... Also the wires going into the IMRC plug are showing, and were touching once and a while (actually sparked) so that could be another culprit. But right now its not doing it.
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Try using some "Liquid Rubber" sold at Home Depot or Lowes. I use it for my positive battery cable now as it has that wire harness issue.
 
green SVT said:
BTW I found one thing that could be the problem. I took off the ford cover that is over the IMRC and found that the cable running from the secondaries to the IMRC had a huge cut in it. I guess the cable had be forced down onto the waterpump/cam belt and was bending and cutting it. So that could be the culprit. Also the wires going into the IMRC plug are showing, and were touching once and a while (actually sparked) so that could be another culprit. But right now its not doing it.
Click to expand...

You probably found it. There should be a guide to help keep the cable away from the pulley but it is easily tweeked.
 
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