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Engine is bucking under full throttle

Ok first just to stomp this crap right now, sorry if I seemed like a dick when I said not to jack the post, I have been told that same thing by other people. So I have no hard feelings against anyone.

So anyways............
Yeah I dont see any type of guide for the cable so if I put that case back on the cable rubs on the belt. I guess I will have to just keep it off, plus some say that that panel holds in heat which affects the IMRC. So far two days and nothing
 
green SVT said:
..so if I put that case back on the cable rubs on the belt. I guess I will have to just keep it off, plus some say that that panel holds in heat which affects the IMRC. So far two days and nothing
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Oh, you mean the Plastic DURATEC water pump cover. Yes, take it off. It has been known to "screw up" the IMRC. Hope that is all there is. :cool:
 
So after reading this thread, well the pertinent parts I do have a question that may or may not have been answered. I recently had to install a solid steel heli insert into my thread due to some damage from a blown plug. I have driven the car now for close to a month and have just started to notice bucking in the 2500 to 3000 rpm under WOT. Now could it just be the need for new wires? I did notice the boot of the wire did have fuel in it and now I ma figuring I just need to change the wires and reset the ECU. Any thouhgts on this,(decent thoughts!)
 
rwea14 said:
... have just started to notice bucking in the 2500 to 3000 rpm under WOT. Now could it just be the need for new wires? ..)
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Could be. Usually bucking at that RPM could be, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plug or gap, sp wires, IMRC. I'm sure there could be others too. Post the CEL codes.
 
rwea14 said:
So after reading this thread, well the pertinent parts I do have a question that may or may not have been answered. I recently had to install a solid steel heli insert into my thread due to some damage from a blown plug. I have driven the car now for close to a month and have just started to notice bucking in the 2500 to 3000 rpm under WOT. Now could it just be the need for new wires? I did notice the boot of the wire did have fuel in it and now I ma figuring I just need to change the wires and reset the ECU. Any thouhgts on this,(decent thoughts!)
Click to expand...



Check wiring going to IMRC. That was one of my problems. Damn 98's
 
DeepDishSVT said:
fuel pump for sure. I just replaced mine last week. had the same problem.
Click to expand...

While I am sure that you DID experience the same symptoms, and that replacing the fuel pump on YOUR car remedied YOUR situation; Unless you are POSITIVE that paying for a new fuel pump AND the labor to have it replaced will fix another persons problems, (remember.. not everyone is comfortable doing work themselves), then we try to avoid using the words "positive, sure, absolutely", etc.

All statements should be stated as OPINION, unless verified as FACT. I'm not saying that it WON'T be the problem, just stating that it isn't IMPOSSIBLE not to be, and I would hate for this member to rely on someone elses "for sure" and be wrong. Either way, thanks for posting the possible solution.
 
thanks for the replies. I think I will try new wires as well as inspect the wiring to the IMRC. Has been a LONG time since I have changed the fuel filter and I should probably do that as well if only for routine maint. Hope combination of these works. Thanks again..
 
here is what I did and 4 days and its perfect

Changed:

02 sensor (closest to oil filter)
fuel filter
touched up IMRC wiring with tape
straightened IMRC cable
removed Duratec cover over IMRC

Now the car runs better than it has ever run since I bought it. This just helped me, it could be different from you. But I would def do the fuel filter and the IMRC. Cost you 10$ for filter and goes on in less than 5 minutes. BTW put a pan under filter when changing, I didnt....93 octane isnt cheap, especially in puddles on my garage..lol
 
Thanks for posting your solution :cool: .

This helps greatly. Many a times, we do a search and find a similar issue posted with no solution because the issue was fixed and they just went on their merry way and did not close out the thread.
 
funny thing is when I had the problem with the spark plugs, I had to break off the Duratec cover because I did not have the right socket. Now I read it is actually better to leave it off??? Huh...that means
Too bad it is a freezing rain right now so I am unable to work on it today.
Man I need a garage!!
 
Yeah it is too bad, looks much better. But I def see a difference. Any question keep posting here, I'll keep an eye on the thread and hopefully you can get her fixed
 
So I cleaned the MAF and there was no change.

Then I pulled the front 3 spark plugs. They look like they're in pretty good shape (burning clean), but the gap was at .047. I know they should be gapped at .054. Also, they are not double platinum, they are the AP764. Not sure if this is OE because I'm the second owner. Could either of these be the cause of the problem?

In replacing the rear three plugs, I read the how-to and it says to remove the coil pack to access them and remove them "blind". What exactly does that mean? Just means you can't see what you are doing but can access the rear three with the same socket extension you use for the front?

Thanks!
 
You pretty much have the picture. Some are able to get in there without removing the coil pack (I'm not one of them). If you do remove the coil pack, you only need two bolts when you reinstall it (not four) as long as you tighten them properly and reattach the ground wire and the radio supressor.

Extension and socket wise, you need to have the combination just long enough to clear the valve cover and attachet to your ratchet. If it is too long, the firewall gets in the way.

In pulling the coil pack, a 7mm wobble socket is most useful.

It is very easy to accidently swap plug wires one and three so pay attention to how it comes apart and restore it to the way you found it.
 
Hmm I've replaced my plugs on two SVT's and never took off the coilpack. Oh well, the pack comes off in like 5 mins, but as he said make sure to label the wires...good luck
 
Do not regap already worn plugs. Also do not install them in any cylinder. They must go back to where they came. Duratec is very sensative to spark.
 
Hmmmm, I wonder if this is why I'm still getting a bit of hesitation, even w/ new wires. I don't know if I put my plugs back in the same cylinder, we were going through so much stuff. :shrug: Todd, what do you think could be done about it now? Plugs are only about 2 months old, will it matter that much since they are newer?
 
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