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Battery Relocation?

In the standard configuration (with driver), the drivers side of the car is a little heavier than the passenger side. To be more precise... the front drivers corner is the heaviest corner, and the rear passenger is the lightest. Moving the battery the the rear passenger makes the cross and side weights nearly even.

If you were an auto-x'er, you would care about this. Even a non-auto-x'er *should* care whether or not the car is setup properly. There is no time saved by mounting the battery on the drivers side..... so why did you even bother mounting it in the trunk?

Oh... and the 180* battery is actually the wrong battery. It's poles are reversed.
 
Steeda... said:
You really should have a fuse close to the battery as well. Just incase

And you really don't need a common ground block under the hood
Click to expand...

Yea, I mentioned the Ground Dist. wasn't needed, it just cleaned it up a little so you have 1 wire being grounded to the body vs. 3-4-5.

What size fuse would you suggest?
Also, what dist. box (and from where)?
 
I priced everything, today at work. this is what it would come with

Dis block with voltage display
200amp Circuit breaker for the trunk
2 battery terminals
25ft of wire loom
25ft of wire see below
terminal rings
4 fuses
zip ties
I might be missing a few things..

Prices $125 for the 0/1 Gauge or $90 for the 4gauge
 
morbid said:
In the standard configuration (with driver), the drivers side of the car is a little heavier than the passenger side. To be more precise... the front drivers corner is the heaviest corner, and the rear passenger is the lightest. Moving the battery the the rear passenger makes the cross and side weights nearly even.

If you were an auto-x'er, you would care about this. Even a non-auto-x'er *should* care whether or not the car is setup properly. There is no time saved by mounting the battery on the drivers side..... so why did you even bother mounting it in the trunk?

Oh... and the 180* battery is actually the wrong battery. It's poles are reversed.
Click to expand...


Even if you were to put it on the other side there a far more greater factors of a well balanced car, Full tank of gas.... passengers ..... Amp subs.... striped out trunk with spair tire removed. You will never see the difference from side to side just from a 30lb battery. Besides you would need to get closer to 50/50 weight in order to see alot of improvement anyways! Witch in most cases (unless im wrong) is close to impossible in FWD. And unless you pay money to buy 4 scales to put under each one of your tires you have no say in just how well balanced this car would be with or without me, my battery rear (Left\Right) or not. As far as begin a auto-xer I could show you times that would prove i know and care about what im doing.

I mounted the battery in the trunk because i broke the battery tray and did not want to buy another one! it was the first cheep mod i did to the car!
 
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todras said:
So why did you locate it to the drivers side again?
Click to expand...

because your GF wanted a ride....... lol jk Why does it matter to you what i did with my car! This is not a full blown race car its also my daily driver. As far as reasons,

1. It was my first contour mod
2. I wanted it out of my engine bay
3. I broke my battery tray
4. It was 30 below zero in a non heated shop and i saved some time and my fingers!!!!
5. Its ND auto Cross!!!! Ya you betcha
6. If i thought in my right mind it would make me faster i would of done it!~!
7. The cost of Amp wire was sky high due to the rise if gas prices 1 year ago!
8. And last I did it because it pissed you off!! lol
 
morbid said:
In the standard configuration (with driver), the drivers side of the car is a little heavier than the passenger side. To be more precise... the front drivers corner is the heaviest corner, and the rear passenger is the lightest. Moving the battery the the rear passenger makes the cross and side weights nearly even.

If you were an auto-x'er, you would care about this. Even a non-auto-x'er *should* care whether or not the car is setup properly. There is no time saved by mounting the battery on the drivers side..... so why did you even bother mounting it in the trunk?

Oh... and the 180* battery is actually the wrong battery. It's poles are reversed.
Click to expand...


Even if you were to put it on the other side there a far more greater factors of a well balanced car, Full tank of gas.... passengers ..... Amp subs.... striped out trunk with spair tire removed. You will never see the difference from side to side just from a 30lb battery. Besides you would need to get closer to 50/50 weight in order to see alot of improvement anyways! Witch in most cases (unless im wrong) is close to impossible in FWD. And unless you pay money to buy 4 scales to put under each one of your tires you have no say in just how well balanced this car would be with or without me battery(Left\Right) or not. As far as begin a auto-xer I could show you times that would prove i know and care about what im doing.

I mounted the battery in the trunk because i broke the battery tray and did not want to buy another one! it was the first cheep mod i did to the car!
 
Reebs said:
To balance out you plus the battery on the drivers side, that "beautiful woman" needs to be a 220lb boat! :) Hottness!
Click to expand...

Im about 6'6" 245lbs so actually she would need to be 275lbs man i guess thats a whole lot of woman! lol never thought of it that way
 
If I were to run a new cable from the alt to the rear, would using an inline fuse be ok to replace the "mega-fuse"?
 
Steeda... said:
No thats a stupid idea. just run it to where it is stock
Click to expand...
My purpose is to have a fully functional cut-off switch as all the strips around here go by NHRA rules. As I said previously, I think if I were to run the alt cable (which has the mega-fuse) to the rear battery, then have the cut-off on the main coming off the battery, that should work. If I'm running the alt cable to the rear, I'll have to use a union adapter, which all I see are fused unions... so wouldn't it be better to just replace the entire alt cable (mega-fuse and all)? Are you saying the mega-fuse will be superior to any inline fuse?
 
So for the distribution block...Do you have to run a fused block or no? What size fuses need to be run in the fused blocks if I decide to go that route? Thanks.

**edit**

Okay, I have an inline fuse from the battery to the dist. block. It has a 100amp fuse. Sufficient or no?

I also got a fused Dist. block that has 2 - 4 gauge outputs (nonfused) and 2 - 8gauge outputs (fused with 30 amp fuses). All that will be coming off of the fused outputs is foglights and perhaps some other small misc. wires. Sufficient or not?

Feel free to PM me so not to clutter the thread.
 
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