todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
LMAO! Optima, cheap?!!!!!!
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Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
Keep in mind that the additional length (moving to the trunk) will require a larger cable than if the battery is kept up front.
In theory, the body should serve as ground well enough that you can run a short cable from the trunk battery to the body and the front ground cable directly to the body. In practice, with the distance involved, it would be beneficial to run a "bonding" cable from the grounding pont in the trunk to the engine block.
At the very least, a voltage drop test should be run to confirm that you have ample wiring and grounding.
In theory, the body should serve as ground well enough that you can run a short cable from the trunk battery to the body and the front ground cable directly to the body. In practice, with the distance involved, it would be beneficial to run a "bonding" cable from the grounding pont in the trunk to the engine block.
At the very least, a voltage drop test should be run to confirm that you have ample wiring and grounding.
vudusvt
CEG'er
Quick & Dirty How-to....
Quick & Dirty How-to....
First off, my engine bay & trunk are pretty filthy right now.:shrug: Anyways....
This first pic shows my dist. block.
1) The plain black cable (top one) goes to the alternator & megafuse.
2) The other black cable is the bundle that leads to the power/fuse box. I soldered a short section of 2 ga (balck) cable to the "plate" thing so that it would plug in to the d-block more easily. I know many CEGers would prefer to separate the individual, small gauge wires & plug them each into its own hole- but as you can see, my d-block doesn't allow for this. The d-block that Todd posted previously would do nicely, though.
3) The red cable leads to the battery.
* That smaller gauge grey wire which plugs in to a small ga. black wire, make sure it stays connected- it goes to the starter.
This 2nd pic shows where I routed the positive cable through an existing hole in the firewall. IIRC, I used a coat hanger to fish it out the other side.
** I don't have a pic of it, but I routed the pos. cable under the front and rear door sills & into the trunk- squeezing by the edge of the driver's side rear seat. You can actually see about a 5" section of cable when you open the rear door.
This last pic just shows my dirty-ass trunk & Optima red-top. As you can see, it fits nicely in the pass. side rear corner. You can't see it, but it's sitting on a battery tray which I bolted down through the floor of the trunk. That was BY FAR the scariest part of the whole procedure- I was worried that I'd hit the fuel line or something. Measure twice, drill once!
The battery tie-down is pretty straightforward & it came with the tray. IIRC, the pos. cable is 2 ga. speaker cable, as is the neg. batt. cable- just in black. BTW, ground the neg. to one of the many exposed bolts in the trunk. Mine goes to a bolt in the rear wall of the trunk, IIRC.
Total cost was ~$40 or so, & most of that was the d-block.
I'm sure others will chime in....
Quick & Dirty How-to....
First off, my engine bay & trunk are pretty filthy right now.:shrug: Anyways....
This first pic shows my dist. block.
1) The plain black cable (top one) goes to the alternator & megafuse.
2) The other black cable is the bundle that leads to the power/fuse box. I soldered a short section of 2 ga (balck) cable to the "plate" thing so that it would plug in to the d-block more easily. I know many CEGers would prefer to separate the individual, small gauge wires & plug them each into its own hole- but as you can see, my d-block doesn't allow for this. The d-block that Todd posted previously would do nicely, though.
3) The red cable leads to the battery.
* That smaller gauge grey wire which plugs in to a small ga. black wire, make sure it stays connected- it goes to the starter.
This 2nd pic shows where I routed the positive cable through an existing hole in the firewall. IIRC, I used a coat hanger to fish it out the other side.
** I don't have a pic of it, but I routed the pos. cable under the front and rear door sills & into the trunk- squeezing by the edge of the driver's side rear seat. You can actually see about a 5" section of cable when you open the rear door.
This last pic just shows my dirty-ass trunk & Optima red-top. As you can see, it fits nicely in the pass. side rear corner. You can't see it, but it's sitting on a battery tray which I bolted down through the floor of the trunk. That was BY FAR the scariest part of the whole procedure- I was worried that I'd hit the fuel line or something. Measure twice, drill once!
The battery tie-down is pretty straightforward & it came with the tray. IIRC, the pos. cable is 2 ga. speaker cable, as is the neg. batt. cable- just in black. BTW, ground the neg. to one of the many exposed bolts in the trunk. Mine goes to a bolt in the rear wall of the trunk, IIRC.
Total cost was ~$40 or so, & most of that was the d-block.
I'm sure others will chime in....
G
green SVT
Guest
Ok your description was alot better than the sticky. Only question I have is do I need 2 seperate blocks, one for the 4-5 black cables, and one for the 4-5 red cables, or do they all fit on one of the blocks on page 1? Besides that, this seems pretty simple
morbid
Hard-core CEG'er
If you're wanting to run a cut off switch... to kill all electronics, you'd need to run the alt->megafuse wire all the way back to the battery, then hook the other pos wire from the battery to the switch, right? So you'd have 2 pos wires on the battery.. the alt and the main (switched)... then you'd run the main (from the switch) all the way up front to a dist box where you'd plug all the other pos wires? I've been trying to figure this out.. and I think this would work, but I know some others already have cut off switches. This does over complicate things.. unfortunately both strips here require NHRA rules.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
This is how I have it in one car.
The grounds are all brought together with an eyelet and then bolted to the chassis. The 4 little + are bolted to the dis. block and the + black starter runs into it. Main + for the batt. runs out the top to the back of the car.
Main + wire is then routed along the back of the engine bay and down to the fuel lines and tip tied to them.
Barely see red cable along the back.
Then it comes through the rubber grommet on the pass. side of the trunk and connected to the batt. Ground is just grounded along side the batt.
In my other Tour this is how I have it. The grounds are just bolted to the chassis with the same little L bracket it comes from the factory with.
The grounds are all brought together with an eyelet and then bolted to the chassis. The 4 little + are bolted to the dis. block and the + black starter runs into it. Main + for the batt. runs out the top to the back of the car.
Main + wire is then routed along the back of the engine bay and down to the fuel lines and tip tied to them.
Barely see red cable along the back.
Then it comes through the rubber grommet on the pass. side of the trunk and connected to the batt. Ground is just grounded along side the batt.
In my other Tour this is how I have it. The grounds are just bolted to the chassis with the same little L bracket it comes from the factory with.
G
green SVT
Guest
Ok how do I know which wire goes to the starter. Jeez, I'm going to take a pic of the setup tonight to show you how my car is...I really would love to meet the guy that wired this car....
Just becuase your lame-o amp could be double as a surf board doesn't mean you need 0/1
Who wants me to make Battery Relocation Kits? It would have everything in the kit to relocate your battery minus the box and the battery.... I might be able to get the boxes too. Ill look monday when im at work
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loggerbomb
Hard-core CEG'er
lol, is that not the majority of what you need?!?!? :laugh:
You need wire, a Common ground/dis block, Anl fuse holder with a 150amp or higher fuse, Battery terminals, Zip ties, Wire loom and a few other odds and ends.
G
green SVT
Guest
Ok my battery.....
So this is the mess that the previous owner left we with. Many of the positive leads are connected by those cheap wire connectors that you compress, even the lead that runs into the fuse box on the right. It actually came apart a couple months ago...
I'm assuming that the large black wire with the rest of the reds in the starter cable?
So this is the mess that the previous owner left we with. Many of the positive leads are connected by those cheap wire connectors that you compress, even the lead that runs into the fuse box on the right. It actually came apart a couple months ago...
I'm assuming that the large black wire with the rest of the reds in the starter cable?
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Follow it and see if it goes to the starter cable. With all the modifications, it is hard to tell. Why is the battery turned 180 degrees around?
Aspenmeteor
CEG'er
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2006
- Messages
- 47
I Also did a bettery relocation with my car. I have some pics that might help as well!
I know my engine bay is kind of dirty but bear with me!
I know my engine bay is kind of dirty but bear with me!
posthuman63t
Veteran CEG'er
I was checking out KNUKoncepts.com for Dist. Blocks. Not sure which would best work for Stock wiring + Sound system + few Misc. small gauge wires. Any suggestions?
Also, am I missing something here? I read a few posts regarding Megafuses needed to be added, but I wasn't too clear on it.
The ground Distribution block being optional. (if you wanted to run the 1 ground wire to the body instead of all the wires)
Also, am I missing something here? I read a few posts regarding Megafuses needed to be added, but I wasn't too clear on it.
The ground Distribution block being optional. (if you wanted to run the 1 ground wire to the body instead of all the wires)
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todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Way to locate it to the wrong side. LOL! Supposed to offset the weight of the driver.
RawBurt
Hard-core CEG'er
So what would you do with the cable? Leave it sitting there? Or ground it in the engine bay?
Aspenmeteor
CEG'er
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2006
- Messages
- 47
I wanted to keep it on the same side! Besides like stated already its not going to make a difference where i have the battery. I could of mounted it on the hood for all i care, as long as it is out of my engine bay! ( i race Auto-x all the time it would feel the same on the left or right..
BTW: You dont have this problem if you have beautiful woman ride with you all the time. !Its ok todras!