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3L Seems Slow... new to this!

Yes, Brad Noon is a moderator on here, although he doesnt post much. I actually bought my 3.0L from him back in the day. I say get it on the dyno with the 24s and go from there. Your going to have keep your 24s anyway if you want to put it on the bottle.

PCM is located underneath the passenger side footwell/behind the glove box. If you get down on your back and look up, you cant miss it.
 
Awesome, this is getting good now!

I emailed and PM'd the previous owner so hopefully he can give me the specifics on the engine. Hopefully he'll get back to me.

Could I not run a wet shot on this car and not worry about having the 24s? If it came to that anyways...
 
john isnt on often. if you bought the car from kirk i'd get the number from him. from what i remember they're pretty good friends:shrug: i met kirk through john anyways. or maybe post in the northeast section down at the bottom of the page. maybe one of the older members will know how to contact him. good luck,perhaps we'll have to have a northeast ceg/neco meet this spring up in the ROC since we have some new members now :cool:
 
I am decent friends with Kirk as well I just couldn't seem to get ahold of him, and I asked him to put me in touch with the previous owner but it never came to be.

Anyways, John already got back to my email! Here it is:

"I think it was JDM that did the tuning, I can't even really remember. The car does still have secondaries (at least when I sold it). The engine has SVT heads, SVT cams and Taurus 3L valves and block. Compression ratio was somewhere around 10.75:1. I can't remember if I upgraded the oil pan or not. It has a 2000 Cougar tranny with a Quaife."

I asked about the internals of the motor because we were told it was a forged rotating assembly when she got it... we'll see.
 
wow..nice to see he got back to you so quickly. good luck w/this car..from the one and only time i saw it it was a nice looking piece
 
Got another reply... no forged internals... kinda pisses me off but it's not his fault I guess.

Anyways, he says the crank WAS knife-edged and with the Fidanza it revs pretty fast.

Guess we just gotta get a baseline now and some tuning.
 
I am decent friends with Kirk as well I just couldn't seem to get ahold of him, and I asked him to put me in touch with the previous owner but it never came to be.

Anyways, John already got back to my email! Here it is:

"I think it was JDM that did the tuning, I can't even really remember. The car does still have secondaries (at least when I sold it). The engine has SVT heads, SVT cams and Taurus 3L valves and block. Compression ratio was somewhere around 10.75:1. I can't remember if I upgraded the oil pan or not. It has a 2000 Cougar tranny with a Quaife."

I asked about the internals of the motor because we were told it was a forged rotating assembly when she got it... we'll see.

Okay, so you have a 3.0L hybrid since he used 2.5L heads. From the sounds of it, it has a stock bottom end. The stock crank and rods are forged to begin with. Maybe he did some shrouding with the heads when he put in the larger valves, but the compression is generally ~11.2:1. I guess its really beside the point and doesn't really matter, but whatever. :)
 
I'm just happy to finally know what exactly is in the car, and it only took a day! We should have done this a while ago. John said that the rev limiter is low right now bc they forgot to change it... I think I will try to find a set of 19# injectors and try the stock tuning and see where that gets me... I might even dyno it both ways... can probably swap injectors and the chip in less than half an hour on the dyno right?

Then I'll give it a bit to see if this other company delivers on their tuning software, and if they don't I'll contact Warmonger.

I appreciate all the help guys! And does anyone have a set of 19s for sale?:D

-Adam
 
There's actually a set of stock 19s for sale for $30 right now... might be worth picking up.

Also, is this "ProM 75mm MAF" we have any good? I know on the SHOs they were kinda hit or miss and seemed like the stocker was better...
 
Also, is this "ProM 75mm MAF" we have any good? I know on the SHOs they were kinda hit or miss and seemed like the stocker was better...

Exactly the same with this platform. I doubt you have the supplied flow sheet that Pro-M provided so its going to be harder for someone to tune for this. I wouldnt be surprised if JDM tuned for the stock MAF. Could be part of the culprit for the idle issues. Switch back to the stock MAF. Theres only 1 transfer function. Makes things so much easier.
 
yep. i knew it. bad tune. i don't know this guy who sold u the car, but its highly irresponsible of someone to sell u a car with so much unfinished stuff and not even tell u about them :nonono:
 
Well hopefully I can get the 19# injectors and stock MAF and yank the chip and see how it goes til we decide on tuning.

Can we use any stock SVT injectors or does ti have to be from a 98-99 since ours is a 98?
 
I say grab some 19 lb injectors, pull out the chip and see how it runs. Bet it runs a lot better. 19lb injectors are good for about 220-230 whp anyways. Either that, or get a chip from nautilus like I said. You said youre wanting to put it on the bottle once it gets everything sorted out, so you may just want to get a different tune with your current injector setup. Sounds like the previous owner screwed things up.

Get it on the dyno! That will really tell the story.

FYI 19's are good till about 280-300whp based on my dynos. Definitely pull that chip out and drop in some 19lb injectors it should make a huge difference.
 
FYI 19's are good till about 280-300whp based on my dynos. Definitely pull that chip out and drop in some 19lb injectors it should make a huge difference.

How is that even possible? Were you using a FPR? Even Warmongers website puts 24 lb injectors at 67% duty cycle at 210 whp. :shrug:

I pulled this from the archives.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...Old=allposts&Main=18124&Search=true#Post18330

We're talking wheel hp numbers here and not flywheel correct?
 
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