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3L Swap questions

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pepeeas

New CEG'er
Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
9
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Detroit, MI Motorcity!
Hey guys, i recently blew my 2.5 in my SVT, seen the threads on how to swap the 3l and i still have a few questions. I did also read the the thread on the terms used in this type of build (Hybrid, full etc:crazy: great post btw) well let me start off by saying i am doing a full 3l swap, i bought a 99 Taurus 3l Duratec 24v DOHC over the weekend. And i read and understood that i use the the 2.5 wiring harness and the plug/coil. However what i'm still confused about, is there any parts from the 2.5 that have to be swapped over to the 3l for proper function? I read that i use escape fuel rails for the size compared to the taurus fuel rail and thats obvious ;) and if im still using the 3l timing cover, should i still readjust the pulsewheel? :confused:other than that, i would like everyone's input that has done a full 3l swap to help anyone with questions in regards to this topic. Only to help clarify the topic more. Thanks guys!
 
I suggest reading some build threads. You will not be using the 3L timing cover. Also does the 99 3L have a cam driven water pump? I thought that they did not, then you have other issues.
 
BrApple said:
I suggest reading some build threads. You will not be using the 3L timing cover. Also does the 99 3L have a cam driven water pump? I thought that they did not, then you have other issues.
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Uhm, yeah. As far as I have read on the forums ONLY 2001+ engines have the cam driven waterpump. With that engine you will have to swap your 2.5 heads along with all timing crap and covers, engine mount, trim the pilot bearing or w/e etc.

I hate to say it but maybe you can still return the engine for another. You should have searched here first. As far as that engine goes its far more work. Escape motor is close as you can get to a "drop in".
 
Oh Ok Thanks For The Info Guys, Well My Only Option Would Be To Do A Hybrid 3L Swap. So My Only Question Is, Can Anyone Point Me To A Forum Or Archive To The 3L Hybrid Swap? (3L Block, 2.5 Head/Intake)
 
BrApple said:
The MTX-75 does not using a pilot bearing .... the CD4E ATX does use a pilot bushing ...
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Note that the pilot busing that comes on the 3L motors is different than the pilot bushing used for the 2.5L ATX. The pilot bushing used for the 2.5L ATX is flush with the crank snout. Cut the bushing flush or remove and install the correct one for the 2.5L. Not many have swapped 3L's into Atx's so this info isn't out there. I had to stumble through it with a motor I sold a while back.

Cut flush or remove for the MTX.
 
I have similar questions too. my 00 CSVT locked up at 182K miles and i wanna know what 3L to use. i want to use the svt cams and manifolds but other tan that im not sure what to do. i was planning on taking it to the shop and have the mechanic do everything cuz its my daily driver and theres NO WAY im selling it or junking it. GF says to get rid of it but im not going to after i put new belts on new clutch new alt. and front right tierod. now i jus need a 3L and a rear left strut. i wanna have the HP want but i cant afford toooo many mods. help??
 
R3DcSVT-R.I.P said:
I have similar questions too. my 00 CSVT locked up at 182K miles and i wanna know what 3L to use. i want to use the svt cams and manifolds but other tan that im not sure what to do. i was planning on taking it to the shop and have the mechanic do everything cuz its my daily driver and theres NO WAY im selling it or junking it. GF says to get rid of it but im not going to after i put new belts on new clutch new alt. and front right tierod. now i jus need a 3L and a rear left strut. i wanna have the HP want but i cant afford toooo many mods. help??
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I suggest you start a new thread for yours. But i'll briefly answer your questions. If you wanna use your svt cams & manifolds, then what you're aiming to build is called a "split port 3L". In other words, 3L block & heads to mate to the svt intakes & cams. There are a few modifications that must be made to complete this. One was just mentioned above by blackcoog. Another is a small tab by the alternator that must be cut off to allow you to use the svt's. And depending on which 3L you get, (meaning from a taurus/sable, or escape, or mazda mpv) you might need to shave down the svt passenger side motor mount just enough to get it to slide in between the 3L heads. Also you'll need to either port the 3L heads or buy a $300 lower intake manifold replacement for the stock one. This is just a summary of what u'll need to do to complete the swap. I'll reiterate tho: Start another thread.
 
R3DcSVT-R.I.P said:
I have similar questions too. my 00 CSVT locked up at 182K miles and i wanna know what 3L to use. i want to use the svt cams and manifolds but other tan that im not sure what to do. i was planning on taking it to the shop and have the mechanic do everything cuz its my daily driver and theres NO WAY im selling it or junking it. GF says to get rid of it but im not going to after i put new belts on new clutch new alt. and front right tierod. now i jus need a 3L and a rear left strut. i wanna have the HP want but i cant afford toooo many mods. help??
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And depending on the mileage/price on the 3L u're getting, if you're porting or not, if you own a vast set of tools & engine hoist/stand, you really should be able to complete this swap with about 5-600bux.
 
pepeeas said:
Oh Ok Thanks For The Info Guys, Well My Only Option Would Be To Do A Hybrid 3L Swap. So My Only Question Is, Can Anyone Point Me To A Forum Or Archive To The 3L Hybrid Swap? (3L Block, 2.5 Head/Intake)
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Very few are running a hybrid setup around here, so info might not be that abundant. I'd suggest looking through the old forums on the main page. If u've got time on your hands, this is honestly the most direct & less modification-necessary of all the swaps. You simply take off everything off the 3L except the block itself, & add all the svt heads & accessories to it. Voila. Drop it back in. The resulting combination does raise the compression ratio of the engine. If u're not planning on turboing it, then you're good.
 
BAD SVT said:
Very few are running a hybrid setup around here, so info might not be that abundant. I'd suggest looking through the old forums on the main page. If u've got time on your hands, this is honestly the most direct & less modification-necessary of all the swaps. You simply take off everything off the 3L except the block itself, & add all the svt heads & accessories to it. Voila. Drop it back in. The resulting combination does raise the compression ratio of the engine. If u're not planning on turboing it, then you're good.
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Yeah I Read That Up Not Too Long Ago, Now Its Getting Close To Dropping The 3L In And My Final Question Is About Timing. Now, I'm Pretty Sure I'm Going To Swap The 2.5 Timing Components Over To It, I Read That On A Thread A While Back, My Question Is, What Are The Timing Marks Going To Be And Is There Any Modification Necessary For A Good First Start Up Because My Fear Is Smacking A Piston Into A Valve And Well That's The End Of It Haha So If Anyone HaS Some Input It Would Greatly Be Appreciated!
 
pepeeas said:
Yeah I Read That Up Not Too Long Ago, Now Its Getting Close To Dropping The 3L In And My Final Question Is About Timing. Now, I'm Pretty Sure I'm Going To Swap The 2.5 Timing Components Over To It, I Read That On A Thread A While Back, My Question Is, What Are The Timing Marks Going To Be And Is There Any Modification Necessary For A Good First Start Up Because My Fear Is Smacking A Piston Into A Valve And Well That's The End Of It Haha So If Anyone HaS Some Input It Would Greatly Be Appreciated!
Click to expand...

The threads you read should have that info as well. Look up the "How-Tos" forum. On page 2 is a write up for the timing by SJon85. Pretty straightforward. After doing about 5 of these swaps, i suggest not going with the haynes manual. There is no mod per se needed at first startup. You simply disconnect the electrical plug off the coilpack & crank it a few times to get the oil all up in the engine & crevices. Then reconnect & fire her up. Footnote: Before closing the timing cover back up during install, hand crank the engine a couple of revolutions to make sure it turns smoothly. It shouldn't take that much force. If u turn & hear or feel a thud or it won't turn any longer, you have to undo it and try timing it again.
 
BAD SVT said:
The threads you read should have that info as well. Look up the "How-Tos" forum. On page 2 is a write up for the timing by SJon85. Pretty straightforward. After doing about 5 of these swaps, i suggest not going with the haynes manual. There is no mod per se needed at first startup. You simply disconnect the electrical plug off the coilpack & crank it a few times to get the oil all up in the engine & crevices. Then reconnect & fire her up. Footnote: Before closing the timing cover back up during install, hand crank the engine a couple of revolutions to make sure it turns smoothly. It shouldn't take that much force. If u turn & hear or feel a thud or it won't turn any longer, you have to undo it and try timing it again.
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Alright Thanks Man I Really Appreciate It!
 
ok guys check this out, i just got started with this project (motor wise) and turns out that the block i had (3.0 99 Ford Taurus block) didnt mate with my 99 svt heads. so me and my neighbor the mechanic were contemplating:confused: and a bulb lit up:shocked::laugh:, just when i was getting ready to call it quits on this project we thought, since the engines are pretty much identical, how about swapping the cranks and getting new bearings. so my question is, since the bores are different are the cranks interchangable? if so, i think i can get my car running after all!:laugh::cool:
 
why would your 993L block not mate with your 99 3L heads? did you get the duratec block or vulcan? why did you buy a 99 block?... I doubt you can swap cranks.
 
Didn't the 3L 99 block have split port heads anyway? You could keep the 99 3L heads on the 3L block and run a electric water pump. The SVT intakes should bolt up to the split port 3L heads. You could even run the 3L intake if you had to.
 
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