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3L Swap Starts July 21 :D

BurritaSVT said:
The first one will be built in two weeks max. So if you want the first peice it can happen. Joey
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Thanks for the offer! Although, I hope to be done with the install much sooner: this weekend! :eek: Maybe when I come down your way for a tune?!?
 
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dairdevyld said:
I didn't see motor mounts or axles on your list. I hope you plan on upgrading those as well with your power goals.
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Either way those are an easy fix down the road. Motor mounts take all of twenty minutes and CV shafts maybe 2-3 hours. Much easier then say upgrading a clutch or differential.
 
dairdevyld said:
I didn't see motor mounts or axles on your list. I hope you plan on upgrading those as well with your power goals.
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I was thinking of filling the mounts rather than using inserts, but DanG tells me polyurethane fill for the motor mounts takes seven days to cure. Since this car is a daily driver, i probably can't let it sit for a week until Christmas at the earliest. So perhaps inserts are the route to take. Thanks for the reminder! Folks running boosted on here say that OEM axles should be fine, and they're only $50 to replace, so I won't worry about those just yet.
 
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Turbo Kit Checklist

Turbo Kit Checklist

So many pieces! Now, where's that installation guide?

50.jpg


D'oh! Where's the XCAL?!?
 
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SoopaCooga said:
I was thinking of filling the mounts rather than using inserts, but DanG tells me polyurethane fill for the motor mounts takes seven days to cure. Since this car is a daily driver, i probably can't let it sit for a week until Christmas at the earliest. So perhaps inserts are the route to take. Thanks for the reminder! Folks running boosted on here say that OEM axles should be fine, and they're only $50 to replace, so I won't worry about those just yet.
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Pay $50 for a new one and fill it with polyurethane and then swap out your current one when the new one cures.
 
SoopaCooga said:
I was thinking of filling the mounts rather than using inserts, but DanG tells me polyurethane fill for the motor mounts takes seven days to cure. Since this car is a daily driver, i probably can't let it sit for a week until Christmas at the earliest. So perhaps inserts are the route to take.
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I can build you a set front and rear from my core stock, I ship you my filled mounts, you install mounts and send me your old ones back....2 hrs of downtime on your car. My prices are better than buying two new ones and filling them yourself and you don't have to mess with filling them, it's done already.

Oh, and the poly cures to full hardness in 48hrs.....

~Josh
 
well, today was the first of several fabrication days. i got the fuel rails brazed. best result i've seen yet! i'll have to post pics and write it up later...
 
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Pole120 said:
Oh, and the poly cures to full hardness in 48hrs.....
~Josh
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Well, that's gonna depend on what urethane casting compound you use. If we review the products available from McMaster-Carr, we find:

Low-Viscosity Urethane (7 days)
Flexible Urethane (2 days)
FDA-Grade Flexible Urethane (1 day)
Solid Urethane (2 hours)

Guess I should use something other than the low visc.
 
SoopaCooga said:
Well, that's gonna depend on what urethane casting compound you use. If we review the products available from McMaster-Carr, we find:

Low-Viscosity Urethane (7 days)
Flexible Urethane (2 days)
FDA-Grade Flexible Urethane (1 day)
Solid Urethane (2 hours)

Guess I should use something other than the low visc.
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So from my post indicating a 48hr cure time, you can deduce that you need to use the Flexible Urethane...:shrug:

FWIW i currently use McMaster for my poly orders...but prices keep going up on about a quarterly basis and I'm going to be sourcing product from other vendors...

~Josh
 
Turbo Kit

Turbo Kit

We mocked-up the turbo kit last night. I discovered that this kit deletes the main catalytic converter, so I need to see about getting a hi-flow cat inserted in between the cat-back and the flex pipe. I also need to have the oil pan drilled and tapped to accept the return line from the turbocharger. While at the shop I am going to have my front rotors turned for use with the rear calipers.

EDIT: The shop had no trouble turning slotted rotors or tapping the oil pan. The wall of the pan is kinda thin, so to be safe, I'm going to thread a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter from the inside of the pan to act as a nut.
 
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3l Uim

3l Uim

The bad news is: The EGR tube and fuel rail are not the only modifications necessary; other things, including the PCV and EGR solenoid had to be relocated. [moaning] The good news is: the hood closes without hitting the IAC! [rejoicing]

The last modification to be done is the TB bracket. Looks like either an ATX or SVT throttle cable will be necessary, and nobody local has them in stock. Worst of all, my mechanic went MIA. :\
 
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yesterday the turbo piping was installed. some pieces were cut and/or rearranged. everything now mates up well and clears the hood fine. engine bay shots to follow.

once the throttle bracket was fabricated and the throttle cable replaced and the intake piping extended, we fired her up. she sounded... mean! :evil: hungry for road. at least until an intermittent noise was heard. appears to be bearings from the water pump. new pump going in tomorrow.

my only concern with drivability at this point is the fact that the engine stalls when coming down from high revs.

EDIT: the stalling happened while the car was trying to find its idle. all good now!
 
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mission accomplished!

mission accomplished!

Thanks to the efforts of DanG, I now have the only turbocharged "full" 3L. Not only did Dan install both an engine and a turbo in one week, overcoming challenges as they arose, but he did so while working at his place of employment during business hours, and then installed another engine in another cougar this past weekend. The man is truly amazing, and i hope he looks back on this accomplishment with pride. :)
 
SoopaCooga said:
The bad news is: The EGR tube and fuel rail are not the only modifications necessary; other things, including the PCV and EGR solenoid had to be relocated. [moaning] The good news is: the hood closes without hitting the IAC! [rejoicing]

The last modification to be done is the TB bracket. Looks like either an ATX or SVT throttle cable will be necessary, and nobody local has them in stock. Worst of all, my mechanic went MIA. :\
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and people think a full 3L is easy as dropping it in.... :rolleyes: There is much more modification than you'd think.
 
I am hoping maybe I'm on the right thread. I've got a complete 3.0 litre from a 2001 taurus in my 98 contour. I have the contour computer running it. I've got the lean codes telling me to replace the front and back 0xygen sensors, which I did. Then I also replaced the maf sensor, to no avail... I was told that I needed to put the taurus computer in the contour. I want to know if I have to replace the entire wire harness as well, or if the two of them are interchangeable... How'd you guys do it?

:shrug: Jeff
 
mrupholsteryman said:
I am hoping maybe I'm on the right thread. I've got a complete 3.0 litre from a 2001 taurus in my 98 contour. I have the contour computer running it. I've got the lean codes telling me to replace the front and back 0xygen sensors, which I did. Then I also replaced the maf sensor, to no avail... I was told that I needed to put the taurus computer in the contour. I want to know if I have to replace the entire wire harness as well, or if the two of them are interchangeable... How'd you guys do it?

:shrug: Jeff
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the right thread would be a new one. people here think you're commenting on my install. to answer your question, you do not want to use the Taurus computer or the Taurus wiring harness. You need to reprogram your Contour computer with something like the SCT XCalibrator2 along with a 3.0 program, both available from Nautilus Performance.

BTW, MrUpholsteryMan, where can I get hog-ring pliers cheap?
 
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