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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

ScottyDsntKnow said:
Honestly, since you are turboing it I wouldn't lose too much sleep over the race cams. They'd be nice but your motor will be 500whp capable with the stockers... Plus then you retain the stock driveability when your foot is not into the boost.
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True. But with my HKS EVC controller I will have two maps, one for race and one for street. There's no need for 500whp on the street. I'll be fine with 350whp :cool: Plus I'm only going to be running low boost down low so it won't be to crazy with stop and go.
 
Custom turbo cams can make more power per psi boost. Generic 'race' cames may not help enough for the effort if they were designed for higher rpm NA use. With the turbo you probably won't need over 7000rpm and they stock cams may be better for overall/average power. My turbo cam looked nothing like my NA cam in my 427/7.0L motor.
-J
 
So the guy who purchased Keyser's car (Greg aka- The Ford Guy?) was having problems with ARP head studs stretching and the head would lift under higher boost. What are you going to do different?

I asked this question a year or two ago in the FI forum. I've been more focused on LSx engines the last few years, and one thing they do in this case is to drill the heads and drill/tap the block to accept thicker studs.

With all this kick ass effort, I would hate to see you suffer from something like this.
 
Swazo said:
So the guy who purchased Keyser's car (Greg aka- The Ford Guy?) was having problems with ARP head studs stretching and the head would lift under higher boost. What are you going to do different?

I asked this question a year or two ago in the FI forum. I've been more focused on LSx engines the last few years, and one thing they do in this case is to drill the heads and drill/tap the block to accept thicker studs.

With all this kick ass effort, I would hate to see you suffer from something like this.
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Interesting. I have given thought to drilling out the heads and tapping them to accept larger studs, but I haven't decided on that quite yet... however that decision needs to be made soon. On that note how much boost pressure was he running? I don't think I'm going to pushing anything beyond 18-20psi.
 
Hey while the thing is out you might as well. FWIW, on 5.0L Mustangs we run 7/16" stock and that ARP stuff is more than enough. Then again, iron blocks and all...
 
Actually SBFs can have head lifting/HG issues with the 10 bolts/head sealing, especially thin deck factory heads.
ARP studs and a quality MLS/Cometic gasket should do the trick Mike.
-J
 
Well yeah they can blow with boost but it isn't because the head lifted it is because they need more bolts spaced closer together lol. Most guys just get the heads/block decked and use cometics or get an o-ring job.

Back on topic, you might want to look into getting your heads o-ringed if they offer o-ringed HGs for our cars. Failing that cometics will work, obviously everything needs to be machined to go together perfectly. Don't know how many threads I've seen over at the corral where someone posts something like "cometics leaking wth?!" and it turns out the guy just installed them on a weekend HCI lol.
 
Something is missing...

img00109201003142322.jpg













oh snap there it is...

img00108201003142322.jpg


We got the motor out in about 35min. No issues what so ever, which was unbelievable.
 
You have lots to do before SZ, get on it! It's good to see some progress with this build. Thanks for sharing.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Interesting. I have given thought to drilling out the heads and tapping them to accept larger studs, but I haven't decided on that quite yet... however that decision needs to be made soon. On that note how much boost pressure was he running? I don't think I'm going to pushing anything beyond 18-20psi.
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That's just about the boost that Keyser's car was running when it ran into issues, IIRC. This was also in a 2.5L and I honestly couldn't tell you exactly what turbo and what compressor it had either. I did a bit of searching, but with no luck. Your best bet in finding out would be to ask some of our longtime Arizona gents. They would know more about what I'm alluding to. Better yet, you should place a call to Keith @ Arizona Dyno Chip. I would bet a kagillion dollars on him knowing for sure, likely with hands-on experience and actual memories of the matter. I don't think that car strayed far from ADC, so that is a great source for info and someone I would have a chat with to add some turbo Duratec V6 knowledge to my shelf.
 
My buddy finally sent this to me... pic of the 2.5 leaving my engine bay forever (cell phone pic :shrug:)...


Just think all that work to change the flipping belt :laugh:
photo..jpg
 
Ordered my bearings...

CB-1772P - Clevite rod bearings ($5.17 EA, Northern Auto Parts)
MS-2207P - Clevite main bearings ($45.23, Norhtern Auto Parts)
2800B2 - 8oz Clevite assembly lube ($6.99, Northern Auto Parts)

RockAuto only had the rod bearings, which were cheaper at $4.82 EA. However shipping was higher and they only had 4 left.

Next I need to order my gasket sets, which is $225.35 shipped via RockAuto, which is the cheapest I could find :help:

HS-26233PT - Fel-Pro Upper engine gasket set ($150.79, RockAuto)
CS-9038-2 - Fel-Pro Conversion gasket set (lower engine) ($70.79, RockAuto)
 
"intheghetto..... INTHEGHETTO"!!!!! i have an engine stand if you want it :p hate to see that peppy little 2.5L sit on a tire lol!~
 
TRicker said:
"intheghetto..... INTHEGHETTO"!!!!! i have an engine stand if you want it :p hate to see that peppy little 2.5L sit on a tire lol!~
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Haha then I will have 4 engines stands all with engines on them...

Camaro's 357 is on one in the bedroom in the basement, SVT's 3.0L is one in the basment next to the fireplace, Camaro's old 305 is sitting on a stand on the side of the garage... and then the good old 2.5 will be on one in the garage as well :help:

Anyone want to buy an engine?? Preferable the 305.
 
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