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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

I posted this in my forced induction bearing thread, but it's good information and it's relative to my build so...

Federal Mogal/Clevite techs told me that based on my max rpm (7200rpm) and that it is a boosted gas application that they recommend 0.003" clearance on the main bearings and 0.0025" clearance on the rod bearings.
 
Stop updating with these useless (how many people are gonna build an engine for the Contour like this ever again? :laugh:) numbers and get the dang car built.

;)
 
FFE said:
forget that put as much information up as you can :D
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Agreed..it gives us more (go search ) ammunition to use against noobies. :laugh:

Just kidding. This is indeed a great amount of important information that i'm sure a few people later in the years will use!
 
i have just read this entire thread and i am so excited! i cant wait to see how your car performs! maybe i missed it but how where you going to do your axle setup so that it is reliable and wont strip out the splines? keep up the great work and the massive amounts of info coming!
 
thall1621 said:
i have just read this entire thread and i am so excited! i cant wait to see how your car performs! maybe i missed it but how where you going to do your axle setup so that it is reliable and wont strip out the splines? keep up the great work and the massive amounts of info coming!
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I may have mentioned this earlier, but I believe the axles are failing due to multiple large shock loads, which eventually cause them to shear. I'm going to avoid the large shock loads by incorporating a traction bar system and the use of a the mappable HKS boost controller I purchased to limit boost down low. I don't think I will have any problems running stock axles, but if I do I will just replace them with stage 2 axles from DSS.
 
I hope if he's doing all this he rings it out at the track with some real tires at least once.
I'd like to see some bias-ply slick-type tires to help reduse the shock.
-J
 
TRicker said:
you have to have some sort of hard metal bore for the cylinder walls or the heat would be too great for an aluminum piston and aluminum cylinder walls it can't be done. a sleeved block is the only way to get this effect on a car engine i do believe. some two stroke engines can run a NiCasil coating which is very hard and prevents wear. so to answer your question, an aluminum block will always be sleeved.

so when "sleeving" is being talked about on a car application, they probably mean that they have to RE sleeve the block to run a bigger piston. you can only bore a cylinder wall so much before you run into problems. some of the more knowledgeable guys in the forum can maybe enlighten you with a number of how much you can bore a stock 3L block.
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I hate callin ya on it here T, but porsche made all aluminum engines with just a coating on the cylinder walls, and I want to say a few others may have as well.

I know this because it's the reason I decided not to get a 944...
 
its called nicasil. its' been used on two stroke engines but i do not believe it has been used as common practice on a car engine. as stated in my post, so i don't get what your "calling" me on?
 
TRicker said:
its called nicasil. its' been used on two stroke engines but i do not believe it has been used as common practice on a car engine. as stated in my post, so i don't get what your "calling" me on?
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you did mention nicasil, but you said they only use it on small two strokes, which is not correct. for some reason I believe the porsche coating was topped off with teflon as well... but I might be wrong.
 
biminiLX said:
Keep this thread on topic, I'd like it to stay about the baddest 3L Turbo build going down now :)
-J
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After talking more with a number of engine builders I know they all said to just assembly it with the clearances that I have now and just to take it easy on the first few hundred miles.

I guess I'm going to take my chances and do this. I am working with Kinetic Racing Engines to have them machine and install oil squirters in my block. So once I hear back from them I will be sending the block off to them to have the work completed. But that will be the last thing I need to do to for the short block. I am placing an order for Mountune valve springs to accompany the stage II port work I going to have completed at BPE Racing.

My brother graduates with his degree in auto body and paint repair this coming Monday. He is at the top of his class and will also be painting my car. I've decided that I will be painting my car with 2010 Mazda Celestial Blue Mica and will be building a custom hood to go with it. Here is the latest photoshop I did of it. Paint is only $287 a gallon compared to the t-red at $653 a gallon. Plus I think this will look better. Now I just need to figure out what powder coating scheme I am going to do in the engine bay...

mazdacelestialblue.jpg
 
That would look KILLER with an orange pinstripe!!
*looks at user name and RUNS* :D
In seriousness, that'll look great. I like it better than the other options before, hands down.
Erick --
 
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