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AirCouagr Performance July20th

SVT Loki said:
Yes we will still be there.

More then Likely it will be a late start, have to let the motor cool off a bit before we can pull it.
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NAH! We won't have to worry about that... I'll have that motor out by 12:30pm the latest!

Accessories transferred over by 2pm... and motor back in and hopefully running by 5:30PM the latest...

Jared I could use your help installing Vic's Pillar Pod, gauge cluster, and steering wheel... and anyone else who could lend a hand doing those 3 things...

I should have the new 3L and Torsen-stuffed MTX all ready to go before Sunday...
 
aircougar said:
Jared I could use your help installing Vic's Pillar Pod, gauge cluster, and steering wheel... and anyone else who could lend a hand doing those 3 things...
Click to expand...


for wiring power for the guages I would recommend using the yellow wire off of the ignition switch. this will turn the gauges on when ever the ignition is on. if you want them on only while the car is running use the green wire. Also run a fuse inline. it only needs to be 5 amps at most depending on the gauges

ground can be had anywhere near the steering column.

highly suggest wiring the lights to the dimmer so they dim with the dash. just use a test light to find the wire. if the gauges have leds I would wire right to the headlight switch to a wire that is hot when the parking lights are on. (right you can't dim leds so there isn't a need to wire to the dimmer.

to run wires into the engine bay find the grommet on the firewall by the brake booster. this was for the speedometer cable. it goes into the cowl area so run the wires under the wiper arms and make sure there is extra wire to stay away from the linkage. then stright back across the cowl you will feel an openning in the inner firewall that is just covered by material. pop through it with a punch or a screw driver. wire will be just above the fuse box and clutch pedal. then run as needed staying away from the pedals and steering linkage.

otherwise just follow the included instructions.
 
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BrApple said:
for wiring power for the guages I would recommend using the yellow wire off of the ignition switch. this will turn the gauges on when ever the ignition is on. if you want them on only while the car is running use the green wire.

ground can be had anywhere near the steering column.

highly suggest wiring the lights to the dimmer so they dim with the dash. just use a test light to find the wire. if the gauges have leds I would wire right to the headlight switch to a wire that is hot when the parking lights are on. (right you can't dim leds so there isn't a need to wire to the dimmer.

to run wires into the engine bay find the grommet on the firewall by the brake booster. this was for the speedometer cable. it goes into the cowl area so run the wires under the wiper arms and make sure there is extra wire to stay away from the linkage. then stright back across the cowl you will feel an openning in the inner firewall that is just covered by material. pop through it with a punch or a screw driver. wire will be just above the fuse box and clutch pedal. then run as needed staying away from the pedals and steering linkage.

otherwise just follow the included instructions.
Click to expand...


Just like a handbook and as smart as a book lol!!!!! :crazy: :rolleyes: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
 
SVT Loki said:
One little problem with that Brian, Thats where I ran the zero gauge for the battery relocation.
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nice. with the battery relocated that will save about 15 to 30 minutes on each end since the battery and tray don't have to be removed

ok follow the hood release cable and run them there or drill a hole back below the cc unit. that is where i ran my zero gauge cable for the battery relocation.
 
BrApple said:
nice. with the battery relocated that will save about 15 to 30 minutes on each end since the battery and tray don't have to be removed

ok follow the hood release cable and run them there or drill a hole back below the cc unit. that is where i ran my zero gauge cable for the battery relocation.
Click to expand...

As usual Thanks for the info Brian. But ahhh whats a cc unit?
 
cruise control unit. if you remove it there is a small flat area on the firewall the is just below the fuse box bottom right corner as viewed from the drivers seat.


what gauges do you have? if electrical you might be able to run the wires with your battery cable.
 
BrApple said:
cruise control unit. if you remove it there is a small flat area on the firewall the is just below the fuse box bottom right corner as viewed from the drivers seat.


what gauges do you have? if electrical you might be able to run the wires with your battery cable.
Click to expand...

Gauges = oil temp, oil pressure and vac/boost all electrical. With the exception of the air tube for the vac/boost.
 
SVT Loki said:
Again Thanks for the Pic's Brian, it's going to help a lot to have some sort of idea before I start.
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trust me having it all planned out with help make the swap much faster. you are already more prepaired then alot of people that show up for 3L swaps.

so your going turbo also then? I'll see about making it up there but it might be closer to 9 when I do depending.
 
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