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Alternator Quick Question....

Probably not. I havn't tried to read the amps at idle, but on most cars the max amps are not available until the revs are up a bit. That is why alternator testing is done at about 2000 rpm as a rule of thumb for all cars in general.

On most any car you would be lucky to get more than maybe 50 amps at idle from what I can remember.
 
rcksvtcontour said:
Yeah definetly I would know alot about alternators since ive replaced mine 7 times now in the last 2 years. but its like 75 or so when idling depending on what you got running like heatter ac radio stuff like that.
Click to expand...

7 Times!? G's what are you doing to that poor car?
 
yeah 7 times

yeah 7 times

Yeah see thats the thing i dont know what it is and I got a buddy thats got the same problem. I still havent found the real reason but got some ideas on what it might be 1 might be bad ground somewhere dont know where but. 2nd could be the manufacturer of the alternator. 3rd could be a bad voltage regulator. So I finally gave in and took it to the dealer and got them to install a OEM alt its got a 12000 mile warranty or 1 year whatever comes first so Ill see how it does.
 
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Sure it does.. that's the Duratec Maintenance FAQ/How-to Read-Me.

Find the alternator wiring fix in there.
 
The 95 to early 98 had a wiring issue for the harness to the alternator. The wiring which goes to the fuse to show the "load level" eventually goes bad and causes the battery charge light to flicker at low or high speeds. There was TSB issued prior to October 1998. The link previously posted has a how-to to fix the wiring.

Edit. Some of the wiring colors changed along the years.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=4919
 
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Check this out
productDetail.cfm
 
thanks for the link, thats what i am looking for. Something with some good amps especially when idling.
 
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