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amp not working?

There is nothing wrong with my cd player, drop it >.>

No point in fixing something that is not broken.
 
I've heard that you can take care of flickering lights by upgrading the wires from Alt. to batt, and the ground wires. May be another option for ya.
 
Yeah, i was actually just looking at that. I believe i found the wires..but on my car they snap into plugs and stuff..so im wondering if thats possible.

Ok so i got to looking and it seems like i have two options :

Replace all the wiring with 4g

or

Just run the wiring along with the stock wiring.

Whoever did the upgrade, please tell me what you did.

And to make sure i got this right...

I would have to run 4g or lower wire from my positive terminal to my positive post on my alternator?

And then run 4g or lower wire from my negative battery terminal to my chasis..any where?

Also run 4g or lower from the alt ground to the engine?
 
4k without some major electrical upgrades would be a serious problem unless you never listen more than 1/4 volume or so. What brand/model amp are you working with?
 
LA2278 or 2888?

Probably the same amps internally. Both require 70A fusing. That would indicate actual power around 800w. The cheap amps always advertise some ridiculous "max power" rating they will never come close to producing.
Thos 4000 watt Legacy amps go for $150-200 new. The cheapest 4000w amps go for around $1000.

Anyway -- You don't need a giant cap if you want to try to cure headlight dimming (slight dimming can be expected at high volume). That ~$50 scosche at sonic would be worth a try.
But I would start by going through all your connections on the power delivery wiring for your amp from battery to ground.
Are the battery terminals clean? Good crimp and/or solder connection between wire and wire terminal at the battery? Good connection into and out of inline fuse near battery? Good connection to amp power terminal? Good connection to amp ground terminal (4 ga for ground wire too, right?), good connection to ground wire terminal? Grounded tightly to bare metal?

FWIW - I'm running 1500 REAL watts (RMS) from mid-high quality amps with only minor dimming at high volume.
 
This dimming happens at any volume, unless im going in excess of 70 MPH. All wires are tight, the terminals are very clean. I have a 1k cap but it still dims.

And what do you mean the fuse is 80A?
 
lol your amp is nowhere close to '4000w' maybe 800w RMS if your lucky. Make sure your ground is solid and do the big 3 and you should be fine. If your dimming on that low of wattage your ground isn't sufficient.

i had a kinetik hc2400 and a sundown saz2000d along with 700rms going to mid/highs and i only had slight dimming with 2 runs of 1/0. voltage was only dropping to high 12s. around 2700~ rms. the stock alternators in these cars are very decent. just get a decent battery no crappy cap thats worthless and you will be much happier.
 
Well, from the photo you posted in the trunk thread, you have a Legacy LA2288, which is 300w x 2 at 4ohms and 450w x 2 @ 2ohms Your subs im not sure, SPL Cal-12's? Those are dual 4ohm subs. How do you have them wired? Is your amp bridged? If you have them wired to 1ohm thats your dimming problem right there if your amp doesnt automatically shut down in protection mode.
2_4ohmDVC_1ohm.gif

2_4ohmDVC_4ohm.gif



The other issue is that your amp is EXTREMELY inefficient. as in it sucks a ton of power to amplify it slightly. More efficicent amps will give you more power without sucking so much from your electrical system. a 1 farad cap should be enough for a cheap fix to stop the dimming issues on a 600w amp. I'm running a true 950w RMS from 2 amps with only very slight dimming.
 
They are wired like normal subs..i have no idea. In the box, there are two sets of ports. One set of wires runs from one set to the other, and another set runs from one of the sets to the actual amp ports.

Ill try to make a picture.



24npiqx.png


That is how they were when i got them. The amp is wired up like normal otherwise. The power and ground are ran through a capacitor..thats the only difference.
 
ok, so your speakers are wired for a 2ohm load each, but how are they conected to the amp? is each speaker connected to its own channel? (each of the 4 wires going to its own terminal) or is it bridged, where the 4 wires coming from the subs are combined into 2 and only connected to the amplifier on 2 terminals.
187920_Full.jpg
 
No, each wire has its own port..so the two sets both go to their own thing.
 
Would upgrading my battery to a yellow top optima do anything, or would i really just need to do the alternator? Just looked up performance alternators, and they are over 200$..so comparing prices, the battery is cheaper of course. All input appreciated.

Also, someone suggested putting a second battery in my car..but when i asked about charging it they had no idea. I could do the second battery in the trunk thing, but wouldn't the battery be drained terribly? I am not on the road all that often..a minimum of 10 minutes a trip (like every 5 hours probably,. from school and back) and the occasional 30 minute trip.
 
With all due respect you are retarded. Carpe stated the problem- you are trying to run a 1 ohm load to your amp and the amp is not 1 ohm stable. You need to find an amp thats 1 ohm stable or rewire the speakers to a 4 ohm load and then it will work.
 
steelblueSE said:
With all due respect you are retarded. Carpe stated the problem- you are trying to run a 1 ohm load to your amp and the amp is not 1 ohm stable. You need to find an amp thats 1 ohm stable or rewire the speakers to a 4 ohm load and then it will work.
Click to expand...

I have asked a couple people through pm, and no one has explained anything to me so don't call me a retard, you twat. What do you mean rewire the speakers to a 4 ohm load? I have no idea what that means.

Is it just leading one wire from both speakers positive terminals to one terminal, and one wire from both speakers negative terminals to one terminal on the amp?

Instead of using all 4 terminals on the amp?
 
Sorry man, just got back from a very long weekend that can only be referred to as partying my ass off without the internet.
Steel, He's not a tard. just new to the game. And I was asking the wiring questions to try to see if that might be the problem, but if I'm reading his replies accurately, he has his amp wired correctly. If he had the amp wired bridged, he would have a 1 ohm load, But it isn't bridged, each channel is seeing its own 2ohm load which is perfectly in the amps specs.
I do however stand behind my saying that your amplifier is very inefficient. This is your dimming problem not your electical system, your not putting out that much power in this whole mess, but your amp is cheap and for lack of a better word - sucks. Numerous people have said that our alternators are good. and I agree, 135a is very high output for a factory alternator.
Dont waste your time with upgrading your alternator, I dont know anybody here who is running more than stock. Even if you do want to upgrade, have you looked into the royal PITA it is to replace the alternators on our cars? I dont know of any car that is worse to replace, and it will cost upwards of $350 labor plus the cost of the alternator to get it done if you don't have the tools/willpower/patience to do it yourself. If you want to keep your amp, then just upgrade the "big 3" wires.
Upgrading your battery is a better more expensive solution to the problem than a cap. But it does the same thing and is only a band-aid to mask the real problem, your cheap amplifier and fords factory wiring (the big 3).
 
Didn't catch the 2 channel part, I thought it was a monoblock.

I think his car is that Sentra, so that probably has a weaker charging system than our cars.
 
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